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specialsparky

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  • Birthday 11/26/2017

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  1. Cool, nice to see pitches 3-5 of Borderline getting traffic. We (Susan Bolton, David Harris, and I) developed that climb ground up over 4 seasons, from 1996-1999, and it was a monster project for as soft a group as ourselves. Most people seem to just climb 1&2 to get to Blazing Saddles or Daily Planet, but they're missing my favorite parts of the route when they do that. I think Blazing Saddles is a slightly harder lead than anything on Borderline besides the 5.11 variation of pitch 2. There's some 10+ face on pitches 3&5, but it's generously bolted. The hardest crack sections feel like about 5.10a to me. And the offwidth on pitch 5 is only, um, "5.9+." Bring 2 ropes unless you're sure you can link to Angel's Crest and beyond -- pitches 1,3, and 5 are all 45-50 meters long. -Eric
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