TrogdortheBurninator
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Posts posted by TrogdortheBurninator
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aren't over half of those pictures from a grade 2 snow climb?
how many pitches have you climbed on the x-monster?
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CJB is a punter and is talking out of his ass.
while the x-monster might not be up to the challenge of the haystack on mt si, they have served me just fine on a number of classic alpine routes.
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I've had a set for a few years. I think they are an excellent tool for all-around moderate alpine terrain, but suffer a bit on cold pure ice. The pick is very thick. I added a small tooth near the front, which helped with stability in shallow placements, but it still isnt as good as my quarks.
Benefits of x-monster:
price
weight
hammer and spike
umbilical clip-in
plunge head first
good on soft ice and hooking ice
good on easy to moderate mixed
drawbacks:
fat pick is not very delicate
I dont like the flexi shaft on steep sport-mixed
Coupled with my quarks, they make a nice second set of tools, and I use them more often than quarks in the mountains. That being said, I think I'll get some new Nomics this season.
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A few months ago I decided I wanted a new/better camera for climbing. I bought the Sony Nex-5. I was torn between the new generation of mirrorless large sensor cameras (NEX, Olympus EPLx, Panasonic GF1) and the high end point and shoots (canon s90/95, G11/G12, panasonic lx3/5, and Samsung EX1). Of this batch, the Sony Nex has by far the best sensor. It also probably has the best video. With the 16mm (24mm equiv) pancake lens, it fits nicely in a medium size shoulder bag. I use this bag: http://www.rei.com/product/800118
I like the wide angle most of the time, but there are definitely times where a 35mm equiv prime would be more desirable. With the zoom lens, the size gets a bit big for my tastes for technical climbing, but it is nice for hiking, and I will use it skiing, or climbing in groups of 3. Another advantages of the NEX is a super high 12800 ISO, so it can shoot grainy, but acceptable pictures in very low light.
There have been a few times still where I wish I had just settled for something smaller with decent quality and a medium zoom (s90/95 in particular), but overall I am pretty happy with my choice. The only other concern I have is that it is a bit scary climbing with a $700 camera on your chest.
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you should pick up a casting bubble and some flies. That way the fish wont swallow the hook and you can release the non-meal sized fish with less harm.
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Played around w/ the Nomic and Quark in the store. Not sure that I liked the balance of the new Quark, but not having used it on ice I'd reserve judgement. People that thought that the previous Quark was too heavy might really like it and it is prob better for alpine this way?
Pretty cool for a product video:
wow!
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The only place you will really miss out on is eldorado canyon state park. You could spend some time up in estes. Lumpy ridge has tons in the 5.9-5.9 range. Lots of camping nearby, and the summer RMNP crowds should be dying down. You could also head down to the South Platte area. I know 11 mile canyon has lots of easy 2-3 pitch routes. Other places in the Splatte should also. TOns of other places to check out. There is actually book focused on exactly what you are looking for:
Serious Play - An Annotated Guide to Traditional Front Range Classics 5.2 - 5.9
by Steve Dieckhoff
SERIOUS PLAY is a unique hybrid climbing guide/instructional manual. This beautifully illustrated primer teaches traditional climbing skills while providing detailed route information for the Front Range's finest moderate lines.
http://www.amazon.com/Serious-play-annotated-traditional-classics/dp/189254024X
All routes are 5.2-5.9, and most are in the 2-3 pitch range. It might be hard to find, but if you are swinging by boulder, you could borrow my copy and ship it back to me or drop it off when you are done. Oddly, the book doesnt cover the flatirons, but the rest of the front range is well treated.
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My wife got some thick foam tongue inserts from a boot fitter so that she can use cheap men's boots without heel lift. They go between the laces and the tongue. Maybe they'd do the job.
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Are you using the extra tongue inserts? They help a lot for my low vol foot.
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i think "fresh" is a bit more current than pow. Context would be "18 inches of fresh." The cool kids might also use the word "blower" to describe light fluffy snow.
pow pow is a bit dated, and used mostly in a half joking manner. pow is ok. powder is used more by recreational folks.
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Sure it is quick to take off bindings, but it would be damn awkward to be down on one knee with one foot still in. Especially if they then chose to jump back to there feet.
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hmm, i think getting down on two knees while still in the bindings is more likely.
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nobody really uses step-in bindings. most people use straps, and the term "strapping in" is used to get them on. Some folks sit to put em on, some folks stand, some folks put them on while still on the chair lift. It has little to do with skill.
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It looks like this site could have some great suggestions but the only link that seems to work is the one provided.
The links to the actual snow, glacier and rock routes do not work. 8D
oops, guess i should have checked that the links were still live. it was a great list indeed. if you do a search on this site, you can probably find places where that list was discussed.
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Nice! I think this is probably the best must-do-once route I've done. I dont have a huge desire to repeat it, but it is an awesome experience. It is such a cool location, and the climbing keeps coming. For some reason I recalled it getting a grade II somewhere, but maybe I was just thinking of the grade III in old Nelson. Longest III I've done.
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I read somewhere about a list of peaks that Dallas Kloke considers the most difficult to climb in the state of Washington (and he ought to know). I don't have it written down but I think it went something like this (in no particular order):
Inspiration
Burgundy Spire
SE Mox
S Hozomeen
Middle Index
Johannesberg
Lincoln Peak
Nooksack Tower
West Fury
Bear
Don't quote me on these - a Google search turns up nothing. I'm fairly confident on the first 8. I think I'd have to replace SE Mox with Lemolo and Lincoln with Assassin, but other than that, I think it's a pretty accurate list.
not sure many peaks can be considered hardman peaks. Burgundy might be technically challenging by it's easiest route, but is still only 5.8 and thus probably not hard man. Similar with inspiration.
Blake's list has some good ideas (http://blakeclimbs.blogspot.com/2009/08/unpublished-routes-modern-classics.html)
add to Blakes list the handful of hard routes in Nelson/Potterfield, and you probably have a good start. Maybe add in the danger routes like Willis Wall.
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Sounds like something like Grivel Matrix Light w/ slider or Camp Alpax Special (i have these) would suit you well. If you start to enjoy harder ice and mixed routes, you'll probably find some way to feed your addiction with a more tech tool (quark, cobra, nomic, fusion).
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Si Haystack?
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According to David Roberts in his new Washburn Bio, the two biggest "precipices" in the world are Rupal Face and Wickersham Wall. Although I'd imagine that Roberts' view of the Wickersham wall is slightly biased.
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one option with long chain, when climbing with new climbers is to thread the rope through the chains, but unweight the links with two quick draws. No load on the chains = minimal wear. Last climber simply unclips the draws and lowers. Not as low wear as rapping, but better than gang banging the chains and keeps you from having to reclimb some super easy route.
i almost exclusively lower nowadays when climbing at sport areas. Mostly because partner and I both lead the route, and it seems faster and safer. I think it is the accepted practice at most sport areas. I usually keep an extra quicklink with me in case something needs to be beefed up. I'd happily leave behind old carabiners everywhere if I thought other climbers could resist the temptation to take them.
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i think p1 is hard for 5.8. It is certainly harder than classic crack in LW, which is often regarded as a mild sandbag at 5.8+.
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consensus of 2 people, one of whom (the one that gave 9+) is probably you
Grivel X Monster?
in The Gear Critic
Posted
coldfinger, I think the x-monster, or any tool using the x-monster pick will be a fine tool to get things started (if you are just getting started). it will just take a few extra swings to get a good solid stick in cold ice. I would strongly recommend putting another tooth near the end of the pick. i think it makes a big difference in their climbability.