SemoreJugs
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Posts posted by SemoreJugs
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okay last post for the night. Have u tried using a thin lost arrow? I find them to work nice as a supplemental, or second nut tool (sometimes one tool aint enough for the ladies). Besides, it has the extra function of protection if you need it.
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i find keychain biners great for clipping gear that is not pro to my harness (ie nut tool, camera, nalgene) I prefer a nut tool with a flat sirface to strike with a hex for those stubborn nutz that my partner yanked on.
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Poles are heavy to carry on climbs especially where you might sit up to bivy and have no use for a pole anyway. Just my thoughts but I prefer the simple pole-less design.
Get bug mesh and a flap that will fully close for staying dry during thunderstorms, heavy mist etc.
There are tossups to both vertical and horizontal zippers. The clamshell type with the zip along the seam seem annoying to me.
You said seam seem. haha.
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another reason I try to avoid paying taxes. I dont want my money funneled into atrocities!
Is that the only way we can lead the world? By carrying the biggest stick? What about leading by love and opportunity rather than fear.
You catch more humans with honey than vinegar.
Iraq: Bush did the vinegar route.
China, Tienneman Square: More of the honey route
Which has more lasting change? You cannot win hearts and minds by force. I wish history was still taught in congress. Now there's an idea.
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Of course he feels no remorse. If he allowed himself to, it is likely he would have hung himself... He must be living a hell that you and I cannot even imagine, at least in dreams, the poor bastard.
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ITs saturday morning. I can't sleep. So I'm curious. Most of my climbing dreams involve good friends from NC. Usually the dreams are pleasant adventures. Every now and then, they are more stressful. NEver do they involve falling or thoughts of danger and death, thank god. Thety are more about my relationships with my climbing friends. Sometimes, especially when camping at a crag or alpine spot, I will have dreams that night about the climbing the next day. I think its a previsualization process. Usually, stress is not invlolved in that case.
I'm interested to hear others' experinces...
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Sounds like a mix between good weed and mescaline.
Have you read any Carlos Casteneda. What really struck me was the entire epidose with his friends and how the yard's scale expanded dramatically.
Its funny. To this day, I still have recurrent dream themes about high school friends that alienated me. As much as my conscious, rational mind tells me that I am over this, obviously, I am still not entirely. The funny thing is, our 10 year reunion is coming up this fall. I really thought it would be a waste of time to go, but now, I am thinking maybe I should go to confront these issues. that way, I can have more dreams about climbing!
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well done knelson.
I bow to your wit, which overwhealms me with cynicism, hate, and self-destruction. Have fun storming the castle!
Drum roll please!
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hmmmm.
This information saddens me. If we cannot change it from the inside, we must change it by exposing them for what they really are.
The worst kind of criminals. A bunch of toblerone dealers.
I'm going to make a sign and picket in front of the espresso cart everyday. The sign will read in really really really tint tiny letters.
"Did you know REI pushes TOBLERONE on our Unsuspecting youth? sometimes, REI even sells BABY strollerS!!!!! And there is a dam below the waterfall, and now the swedish fish cant swim upstream to pop the chocolate covered cherries. Its a true corporate-retail-guised-as-a-co-op disaster!
The toblerone wards at Harborview are filling faster than these kids can go into insulin shock and drink their mountain dews. Once, I saw one kid fall to his death at the REI pinnacle when he tried to belay with a keychain biner. If only they kept keychain biners production in america, the biner would have borne a stamp reading "not for climbing use". But instead it read, "made in China".
seriously, why didnt the author of that artice interview Lloyd Anderson or Jim Whittaker? Why dont those guys take a stand against REI's sullying of its co-op roots?
I think that is the saddest thing of all. They must have sold out and are getting money still from REI. Has anyone heard them lament at all about the fall of their gear-child???
I know T-baby, I know. Now drink your MILK! -
you sick bastard.
shame.
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wow. That was quite a well-done piece. The fact that Madsen doesnt give one satisfying or even complete answer is the most revealing part. I wonder, how many members of cc.com are REI members? At least 1,000 I would bet, we would only need 20,000 more signatures to run for the board. If we replace the entire thing at once, we can set REI back in reverse. Downsize that bitch. Unwalmart it. Fire MAdsen. And get the fuck rid of the toblerones!!!!
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well, thats how hard i was laughing. Sorry if it was BIT loud!
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Goat Piss. I figured maybe they new something I didnt. Goddamned if the goat piss doesnt make me want to piss, and I do. Then, they lap it right up again. Add that to Newtons laws of conservation. Conservation of goat piss.
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always smoken the rock, never the poles, thats for Alpinfox...
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happiness is a pagetop
enlightenment is to envy those with pagetop status
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... but today after my run around greenlake...
You ran around greenlake!?!?!? Here is some advice for your next dance with death:
GEAR TO BRING (IF YOU LIKE LIFE):helmet!!!****** you are crazy if you would ever consider running around greelake, anytime of year, day, level of conditioning, etc, without a helmet.
After all, you can't achieve enlightenment with a baby stroller sticking out of your cerebellum!
Actually, I was wearing protective covering. MY ice ax was always at the ready in self-arrest position. i noticed that many of the MILFs with baby strollers were a bit melted out so I steered clear so I would not fall into their deep hole. That would take a SERIOUS rescue effort! This is why I am always wearing protective covering. Just in case
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I'm not so sure about the "low-fiber" thing. high fiber stuff burns slower. I guess low fiber foods can be good in camp, but keep them in moderation. There is nothing worse than being constipated at 13,000 ft. If you adjust the normal amount of fiber you recieve to much, it will throw your digestive system out of whacxk for sure!
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Enlightenment is found in a pic-a-nic basket...
You silly bastards stumble around looking forever in your minds for enlightenment; it's the misplaced eyeglasses that sit on top your heads.
Dont mock it till you tried it. I know this stuff sounds very alien and nonsnesical at times.
Mockery is often a manifestation of fear of the unknown. But know that there really is nothing to fear. We cling tightly to our attachments (personal relationships, life, your body, maybe some possessions). You innately must know somewhere that all these things are temporary and transitory. There is nothing wrong with celebrating them while they are here. The problem is that when you cling to them, they end up owning and posessing you. That is the pain of loss. We will all lose these things one day. Might as well come to terms with it now, so it has no dominion over you. Easier said than done to be sure. This is one of my own biggest challenges.
Here is a challenge. Ask yourself honestly many times: "why do I feel the need to mock these things? why do I feel the need to mock these things? why do I feel the need to mock these things? why do I feel the need to mock these things?"
If you do so, the answer will help guide you. Good luck.
It is not just in our minds that we seek enlightenment. The entire body yearns for it. The western social condition assumes that the mind is the only part of the body that has knowledge and power. Sadly, this is only about 1/7th of our selves. Maybe less!
Every climber should know this, whether they acknowledge it is another thing. When you have wired a route, when you climb "in the zone", what is guiding you? Is it your mind? nope. its your body, because your mind is quiet. It may be working with the rest of your body, but its role is very subdued. You dont think your way up a known route.
"You just go up it." But really, its more involved than that. Reflect on this, try to notice the subtle parts of yourself that guide you up a wired route (the longer the better since this allows more time to monitor your "flow"). Notice where you are centered. concentrate on the center where your movement originates from. concentrate on your balance. Think about how you are going against the pull of gravity, yet its pull seems diminished. Notice the rhythm of your breathing. Feel the energy of your body interfacing and flowing into the rock.
the trick is to do this without engaging the active mind. If you awaken it, it will try to take control and you will lose your flow. Here, you need to keep your mind in the role of an observer.
You will likely find a few of the Chakras. Likely the first you will encounter is the one a few inches above the navel.
I would be interested to hear anyone's similar experiences!!!
Cheers!
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This sort of nonsensical statement makes a mockery of your other assertions. At first you sound as if you seek to promote a Buddhist or Existential world view that human beings, lacking the power to satisfy their own desires, need to free themselves from the vicious cycle of material want. Then you come out with "you can create anything you desire." Right. That sort of rhetoric is right out of multinational corporation marketing pablum.
Wordly satisfaction is not about being able to get anything you want; it's about wanting the things you can actually have, that are worth having.
Norman. What seems a nonsensical statement to you actually makes a world of sense to me because I have been living it.
right now, this presents a paradox to you. But I promise you, countless beings have witnessed this paradox. Squid referred to power. But maybe its not in the sense you interpret it to be. Power and dominion over others is one thing. Power over your own condition is entirely another. this is what I believe squid refers to. Although I would say that true power arises out of the liberation from desire. This is something I have no esxperiience in. I still desire much, but I have learned how to minimize many of the lesser desires. Its a journey.
This may sound like complete bs to most, but today after my run around greenlake, I decided to stretch and do some tai chi. I've never taken a class or had an instructor. However, I have seen others practice it from afar and have read a little.
After about 10 minutes of stretching, deep, rhythmic breathing, clearing my mind, and finally some simple hand/arm movements, I achieved a trance-like state. I was hyper-aware of my body, its energy centers (or chakras), and their relation to one another. Then, I noticed that I was breathing thru not only my two nostrils, but also my right ear. Very strange and curious.
I then returned to deeper stretching. I was in a sitting position and sometimes on my back. Most of the time, I had my eyes shut. After a while, I noticed my hands and arms were feeling a pull and push. I tried to bring my hands together as effortlessly as possible, but noticed there was a subtle force resisting this. Very carefully, I pushed against this force with my hands until they were joined. Then, I released my effort and my hands returned to my sides, in an outstretched manner. All movement was done paralell to the ground, or horizontally. So gravity was not a factor.
Has anyone else experienced this? It was quite amazing.
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Salt is SUPER important. Try using an enegry drink mix for summit day. Potassium: found in nuts
TRy chewing minty gum! One of the best discoveries I have made. The mint settles your stomach, esp at altitude and the gum keeps your mouth from drying out. Whenever I get above 8,000 my mouth, eyes, and nose dry out big time. I bring saline spray, aloe to coat my nasal passages, and eye drops. I've also found this to help on long alpine rock routes!!!
Also, chewing gum is rythmic and helps you establish a good pace, at least for me.
Again, gu is good, but I find that if you dont back it up with something more solid you are going to likely bonk unless you have enough gu to pop every 20-30 minutes. That would be like 10-15 gu packets for a summit climb like rainier.
I find honey to be a cheap alternative to gu, plus its natural. You can stick it in one of those GU filler flasks. Even better, spike your honey with a dash of rum and mint (to be done at home)
Peakbetty I agree! dried mangos, luna bars, and a good nut mix (TRADER JOES HAS THE BEST AND CHEAPEST BY FAR)
Campfood: CHEESE AND CHOCOLATE! IN LARGE QUANTITITES. SOFT CHEESE like FONTINA is easier on the stomach. Chocolate just makes you feel good in general. Teas can help big time in settling and soothing stomach, nerves, etc. Chai is great for breakfast.
I have to say I am lucky. I have never lost my apetite at altitude. May get a little light headed or queasy around 13,000 but I can still get stuff down. Usually, I just need to belch and fart more and I'm fine. TOO much CO2 in the blood I guess.
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I agree. Ryland made some valid points. I tend to worry about others too much. I'm working on it. I also can be too intense with my beta, who the fuck am I anyway? Need to show more restraint.
The crampon-axe comment: I was referring to climbing snow or ice in exposed conditions where a slip could be baaaad. The context was climbing mt rainier. Not a snow or ice approach on a protected snow field or a mixed alpine route. Granted, most slopes on the Rainier Dog routes are not too exposed. But there are a few sections on all the climbs I've been on, Kautz, DC, Emmons, where a slip in icy conditions could be one wild ride. Am I wrong or off-base on this? Would you really want to be without an axe???
I just reread the OP. I realized you asked if poles were used on the route at all. MY bad. I thought you were asking if an axe was needed. I used either 2 poles, pole/axe, or just an ax (on the bergschrund and "steeper" sections).
Ryland, thanks for the reminder. I still have much to learn and reflect on.
Alpinfox, you might have a point, but regardless, you can still kiss my ass.
Crappiest Gear, EVER!
in The Gear Critic
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Okay, lets hear the tales of woe. What piece of gear has been your biggest let-down.
For me, its my gear sling. I just use the thing to keep the shit organized in my pack, but mostly to justify the purchase of one.
If I ever aided, I might end up using it again while leading...
Oh and cheapest, shoddiest gear would have to go to my 5.10 anasazi's. Its such a love/hate realtionship. The seams on the lining are completely f'ed. The heels pop off on less than vertical climbs in hot weather. But godddamn it, I still love em on overhanging, sport, an boulder problems. I think i keep em around cause spent 6 months breakng them in.