Bogen
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Posts posted by Bogen
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Little chilly in skaha, but not a bad idea...
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But I think you are a little different than most, you have trouble gaining weight. Most people are fighting those extra couple pounds....
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Nope, you are still getting out - proof that the gas taxes are not working. Climbing gear is a luxury item, like boats, it needs to be taxed as such. The best way to cut the excessive waste of climbers going into the mountains is to tax them out of this habit. Ditto for skiiers, snowmobilers, and all outdoor enthusiasts who use the roads to get to their destination of choice.
Ah, I think I get your point. Do you think that the excessive gas tax is collected mainly to reduce consumption?
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I'd rather carry 10 lbs. of body fat than 10 lbs. of butter in my pack.
Grass is always greener, eh Dru?
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Yep, and we should start by cutting all trips to the mountains. Climbing causes pollution to the environment, and we impact nature just be entering it. Leave no Trace, right. Don't go in the first place.
I propose we tax all climbing gear with a 500% luxury tax. That would be a good start.
Nah, just the gas will be enough.
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Everyone of us drives way more than we need to. This is evidence enough that gas isn't more expensive than it needs to be.
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One thing that has always has impressed me about the Bible is how it shows the good and the bad, no pulling punches. Just think how easy it would have been to edit-out these less-than-flattering stories.
Shit dude, you don't think it WASN'T editted?
I don't have the dates in my head, but it was around 400 ad that the bible in its current form was editted and amalgamated from a much larger of body of greek and hebrew writing.
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Also its a lot easier to store hydrogen than it is to store electricity. So you can have a solar cell that wouldn't itself be able to power a car making hydrogen, then fill up a car and run it off the stored hydrogen that solar cell made.
More efficient, not easier. Biggest problem facing the hydrogen fuel industry right now is that of storage and delivery. Compared to propane, hydrogen is more volatile and it rises (propane sinks) therefore hydrogen cannot leak even a little (unlike propane.)
So the issue is to come up with a fuel transfer and storage system that is foolproof enough that truckers and gas jockies can't fuck it up. Nobody wants to foot the bill for developing hydrogen delivery systems till there is enough of a market for the hydrogen, and nobody wants to develop a product like a car for the consumer when there isn't fuel readily available. The people developing the cells forge ahead optomistically, sure that the problem will solve itself eventually when nobody wants to pay for gas anymore.
Meanwhile, recent estimates on the reserves of oil contained in the Alberta tar sands have come in higher than many suspected. They are saying that the tar sands actually stretch all the way across the province from Fort McMurray, where they are currently mining, to beyond Grand Prairie. They estimate there is enough oil to supply all the worlds needs within the current rate of expansion for another 300 years!
So, if you have stock in fuel cell technology, it might be time to reconsider.
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Eating fat is a different issue, we were talking about body fat. I know damn well that eating fatty foods gives you way more energy when working hard. Whether working on the farm or hiking/climbing, bacon and eggs for breakfast gets you further than oatmeal. I suspect that our traditional breakfasts are cultural remnants of a time when people worked a helluva lot harder than we do now.
Anyway, the issue is whether the extra weight of excess body fat has enough benefit to make it worth carrying. 10 lbs of speck, or muktuk, or pemmican whatever, and one pound of fleece, will give you way more energy and insulation than the equivalent weight of fat under your skin.
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Human nature, we always try to come up with reasons for stuff like existance. Most of us are uneducated, or just plain dumb, which leads to superstition (don't go quoting Jung back at me.) We are all intrinsically social creatures, which leads to organized superstition, commonly called religion.
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Were they overweight to start with? Were the missing climbers accounted for?
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Is that picture a joke? I haven't been to smith in 13 years, is it really that bad?
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Should i just return them and get a diffrent boot thats wider?
Yes. The toe box shouldn't touch your foot anywhere but the bottom. Tighten from the ankle locks up for more control in performance situations.
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While we're on the subject...
A prof at my university was doing some of this cold weather physiology research, with army grant money. Remember the ColdBuster Bar? It was a bar he designed with a bunch of stuff that was supposed to warm you up by tricking your body into burning its fat reserves. The active ingredients were cocoa, skim milk powder and rice!!!
It did work, a number of my classmates earned money playing chess while hypothermic to test its various constituents.
The mechanism by which the protein in the milk powder caused heat release wasn't well understood, at least not when I left, but it was well documented.
The cocoa has theophyllin, a methyl xanthine like caffiene, that cause fat to metabolize quickly in the presence of carbohydrate - the rice powder.
Unfortunately, milk chocolate has very little real cocoa, but you should be able to make your version of this cold weather energy food if you want. At the time, the army was apparently using this bar in cold weather rations. It was on sale in MEC for a short while, but I guess no one believed in it.
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Bogen, everyone is different. If i'm getting ready for a long multi week climb then I work on weight gain w/ both muscle and fat because it's all gone and then some when i get back. The suggestion of "putting extra food in your pack" is overly simplistic, also. When you start hitting some altitude and your body doesn't want and can't hold down unlimited amounts of food then you just go off the muscle and fat of your body as another source.nerds
Of course, you're right. On both counts.
The reason extra fat helps you on an expedition is the same reason it helps the Inuit in winter. But for one or two day climbs, even in cold weather, that fat is mostly just useless extra weight.
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I've met alot of Inuit, enough to know you wouldn't go after one with a knife!! They do like to be touched, maybe a gentler approach would work better. I don't know about Alpinfox...
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I'll check my books...
Anyway, I'm not claiming it provides absolutely no insulation, just that as far as climbing goes, the additional benefit of weight as fat doesn't justify carrying it. You'd be better off losing 20 pounds of fat and carrying a 1 pound fleece.
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But physiologically, it does insulate. That's why cold-living groups like the Inuit are physiologically adapted to be chunky. Well, that and the seal blubber diet.
The only physiological benefit is the volume/area relationship. The Inuit actually seem to be an exception to Baergs law, that animals within the same species tend to larger size as you go North, irrespective of body fat. The Inuit are not large people as far as it goes, but they do tend to fatten up when they can. Anyway, while the vol/area ratio benefit to heat loss may be significant over evolutionary time, we are talking about athletic performance here, and ounce for ounce I bet fleece (or sealskin) is better insulation.
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Fat does keep you warmer. Ive known tubbies who could swim in cold water for like an hour, I was shivering after 10 minutes. Also I've seen anorexics who would be fully shivering and wearing sweaters on +25C days in July. Additionally fat has no metabolic load so you don't have t divert energy to it (unlike bone and muscle) and can use that extra energy to keep warm.
I have known people like that too. I suspect that cases like that fall into outer portions of the curve, there is obviously a great deal of physiological variation in metabolic rate vs body fat, and there may be other reasons that they are generating more or less heat. Fat is not good insulation, and it doesn't start giving you energy til you are really out of blood glucose.
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Bullshit, bullshit. Fat does NOT help you climb. Maybe you think those extra pounds would be worth carrying on a month long expedition when you are working at a deficit for days at a time. Even then, it's just poor planning. If you're skinny, and you are prepping for the above scenario, put some extra food in your pack, and some extra clothes on your back. Lemme break it down for ya...
First, your body stores energy in a variety of ways, and what we are striving for with all the energy bars, drinks, gels we eat, is to keep our blood sugar high enough that we don't 'bonk.' Bonking is what happens when your blood glucose drops low enough that the body has to start liberating energy from other stores, like fat. Free glucose is stored in the liver and the brain. You aren't losing, or even using, your fat stores till well after you 'bonk.'
Second, fat does not keep you warmer, other than through a volume/surface area relationship (volume increases as a cube, area by a square, so the greater the mass/area ratio, the slower you cool.) This relationship is relatively minor in the face of good clothing and a healthy metabolism.
So
your excuses, weak-minded fools. Trying to justify your extra weight as performance enhancing is ridiculous. Lose it, or carry it to the top with pride.
Here is the Bogen method for weight loss, which I don't practice much in winter laziness, but reassume every spring:
1) Exercise at least to the point of a light sweat first thing in the morning, BEFORE you eat. If you are short on time, find whatever exercise will make you sweat fastest, and do that, but make sure you do it every day.
2)DO NOT eat anything in the evening if you can avoid it. Plan ahead to eat early, if you have to eat late, eat really light.
That's it. This will work, unless you do nothing the rest of the time but eat ham and french fries.
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I just returned my Beal 9.4 70 meter stinger because after 6 months, it wasn't as water resistant as my 8 year old Mammut 10.5. I didn't really like the 70m setup much, and I did have a 6mm rap cord to go with it. I still love my 6mm cord, and it goes great with my 50 m 10.5 or by itself as a rap line when soloing. I replaced the beal with double 60 meter 8.0 mm mammut phoenix setup. Mammut has by far been the best ropes I've owned, and it is good to be back to the standard 60 meter setup. Double 60's won't let you down, whereas when constrained by the thicker 70, or the 50, I was always troubled by some logistic bullshit or another.
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I can Sing Neil Diamond like no ones business!
It's true, I heard some some!!
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You can't be paparazzi AND the Star, Steven!!
Extra Rap Cord
in Newbies
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I carry a 8.5 dynamic and 6mm static when I'm soloing and there is a lot of rappelling involved. I find that even a 6mm/10.5mm setup is easy to pull and tangles less than my double ropes. In scarier pulls, like when the rope might get caught up in shrubs or rubble, I actually leave the 6mm through the rap anchor and pull the thick rope. It's no different really than what supports you off a v-thread, but still scares me sometimes. Ropes come down like magic, though, If you pull the thin one, you have no ability to flip the knot around from a distance if it catches.