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SublimeSalamander

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Posts posted by SublimeSalamander

  1. Sounds like frost nip to me TimL. I got it on my face and eyelids a couple of years ago in Antarctica. A tell tale sign is the skin is devoid of pigment while it's still cold. Also it's possible to do nerve damage without frost bite. Another tell sing will be skin pealing whenever the affected area experiences a change in temp for a sustained period of time. My eyelids still peal every time after a day of skiing. If this starts happening pretreat the area with lanolin before going out into the cold. Not the lotion kind but sludgy stuff.

  2. Hey there legs,

    I'm a former East Coastie myself. Although I can't think of any specific area outside of Toronto there is some good climbing outside my home town of Warren Pennsylvania; witch is only 1 1/2 - 2 hours away from Toronto. Check out both of the links from www.rockclimbing.com . Both areas are withing a half hour of each other so you could hit both areas in one trip. Good luck.

    http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listArea.php?AreaID=1065

     

    http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listArea.php?AreaID=1909

  3. Hi CP,

     

    Welcome to cc.com.

     

    I think most leaders clip into a two bolt anchor by either girth hitching two slings to their harness and clipping into each bolt with a locking biner on each sling, or by attaching a double length sling to the two bolts (making sure to do the "magic x" thing) and then clove-hitching their end of the main climbing rope to a locking biner on the double length sling. If you know how to tie a "dog-eared bowline" (same thing as B-rock's "atomic bowline" I think) that is also a nice method to tie in and uses less gear (nice for alpine routes).

     

    Autoblocks such as a petzl reverso or gri-gri are nice for belaying seconds from above because you can attach the device directly to the anchor and if the second falls/hangs, the weight isn't on you. If you belay with the device attached to your harness, it is a good idea to have the rope run from your harness up to the anchor through a biner (like the quickdraw method that B-rock suggested) and then down to your second. That way if they fall you get pulled "up and in" rather than "down and out". You can use a munter hitch on a locking biner as a belay device (this is a good technique to know in case you ever lose your belay device).

     

    Before you start belaying up your second, make sure you are comfortable, that you can effectively pull in rope and lock off the belay device, and that you know what will happen if the second falls/hangs. I got yanked off a ledge and scraped up pretty badly once because my second fell and I was belaying off of my harness and I was above the anchor a bit.

     

    As the second climbs up, the leader can stack the rope on rope/sling connecting them to the anchor. This makes for a neat belay ledge. If the ledge is big enough, you can also just make a pile of rope as you pull in slack.

     

    I hope that helps. I'm sure others will give you some good advice or point out any errors/omissions I might have made.

     

    Here is a good website:

    http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips.htm

     

    Nice website. A lot of good info there.

  4. I was up there the same week end as king buzzo. I agree stay on the railroad grade as long as you can and look for camping on the snow in the general area of 6000ft. And as a side note if you happen to find a Nikon Coolpix Camera in a black nylon case somewhere below the Roman wall and above 7000ft there's a case of beer in it for ya as a reward.

  5. I couldn't make'em work for my wide feet. I've heard others that have wide feet say the same thing. I went with the Scarpa Inverno and they work fine. Just something to consider.

  6. Let's see, I did read your web sight. I was 256lbs I put that weight on after a back injury. It's the Atkins not the South Beach I'm doing. And since I've read your web sight you should read the current up to date version of the Atkins book it will dispel some of the misconceptions your web sight has on it. Then if you want to discuss this further I will. Until it's not worth discussing this with someone who has heard from someone who heard from someone else...bla bla bla. Who hasn't researched it the way I have.

  7. I'm not looking to get sprayed but have you guys actually read the books? I lost 54lbs on the diet. After the first two and most restrictive phases of the diet. The diet becomes very varied. Basically it's a diet without sweets. By the time you reach life time maintenance your eating plenty of veggies, grains, and fruit. There are plenty of people out there that don't do it right. They think if low carb is good then no carb is better. These are the ones who fail early on. I've kept the weight off for almost two years now. Cholesterol and blood pressure is great. The ones not doing it the correct way are the ones giving it a bad rep.

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