scrambled_legs

My 15 year old Rambos have finally been filed flat and my boot toe isn't doing a very good job of sticking in the ice. I haven't been watching the crampon evolution at all and need some advice on the best steep ice/ mixed crampon available. I won't lie, the mixed bit is really just a desire. Up until now the idea of flailing ice gear on manky Rockies protection, has limited me to mainly ice routes. So what would you suggest for a great steep ice crampon and ok mixed crampon?

Thanks guys. Anyone know the exact title and author? I might be able to get a store here to bring it in. I want to try and get a copy beforehand to plan it out. I have a limited amount of time but if all else fails I'll stop in and talk to them.

Thanks for the help but none of those sites have the guide available online. I guess I'll just have to get it when I'm down there.

what's FF?

Not looking for an online guide, but looking to buy the new guide book online.

Anyone know where to find this online???

Anyone been bouldering in this area? It looks amazing and is supposed to rival the best bouldering in the world according to some. I'm going to be there in February and want to get some beta on cheap places to stay, food, travel etc. http://www.rockandice.com/inthemag.php?id=6&type=featart http://www.unco.edu/cebs/psychology/kevinpugh/family/VG-guide/beta.html

Thanks summerprophet... ya a bit of a slip there, I meant smith but was planning red rocks if Smith wasn't in. I did both about 6 years ago but can't remember if it was early/late february or even March. What temperatures can you expect? I was looking at a chart that showed the averages from -6 to 6 degrees Celsius. I remember wearing a t-shirt and sweating when I was there so I figure it had to be at least 70f or 20c. Does that happen in late January or early February or is it year round climbing similar to Skaha where you have to be part Yeti to enjoy it? When is spring break? Do they close off areas like Black Velvet Canyon after five or is it just the loop road?

I'm thinking about planning a trip to smith sometime late January to early February, what's the weather like then?? I know the nights will be brutally cold but is it a good bet that it'll be comfortable climbing during the day, or is it hit and miss then and possibly unclimbable?

I don't think they were Arcteryx, but it's Arcteryx that is doing the extensive testing on used harnesses for the first time, so good on them. Bad on them or Mountain Gear for not telling Canadians they won't get anything for spending the money to send in their old ones but good on them for doing the testing. Apparently both harnesses were really badly worn and could have been easily replaced by simply calling the gear man as both were sponsored climbers. To rip a belay loop is damn tough so to have it rip with the minimal force applied while rappeling on both, is damn scary. They must have been in really, really poor condition.

Ya, some guide, on rappel as well, bailed off when his loop failed a few feet from the ground fortunately. Not sure where or who but could probably find something if you spend the time. Two failures within a year after how many years without any and both climbers sponsored with free gear??? Talk about strange.

Ya, would be a good idea to waive that clause for Canadians sending in their harnesses. Either way, somebody should be putting the fact that the gift certificate is useless to us on the advertisement to send in your harness, or be willing to send the harness back to the owner and refund the shipping costs. It really sucks to find out after the fact.

Arc'teryx has gotten together with mountain gear and are offering $25 off $125 of Arc'teryx gear through www.mountaingear.com, if you retire your old harnesses. In light of the recent belay loop failures, they are looking to do some testing on used harnesses, their lifespans, effects of use, effects of salt water etc. I have a harness that's nearing the end of its life cycle so I thought I might as well send it in now and get something for it, and give them a hand with their testing at the same time. After sifting through www.mountaingear.com, to see what harnesses I could replace it with, I was surprised to find that they won't send any Arc'teryx gear to Canada. So if you're looking at sending your harness in and recover your shipping costs through the gift certificate, it is actually useless unless you are going to travel to the US to use it. I find this to be quite deliberately deceiving and have requested that they inform Canadians of this on the advertisment but still no change. I was going to buy a new tent on the same order but won't be shopping through them anymore.

When people die on a rare occassion doing something that they love, that is an understandable risk/reward activity. When people die on a regular basis doing something that they love, that is a questionable risk/reward activity. The difference between "American" free soloists and "Stolby" free soloists is the mindset approaching the climb. For the most part, free solos in America are carefully calculated risks made by climbers that know their ability, know the climb, know the risks, and are mature enough to decide whether they are capable of climbing the route safely without gear. As a result we are generally surprised when a free soloist dies. Stolby on the other hand is a community that appears to be free soloing in the same manner as a group of kids playing on monkey bars with no regard to the consequences, knowledge of the climb, knowledge of their own abilities, and many aren't mature enough to get behind a wheel let alone free solo. It's basically comparing a climbing gymn where someone who's been climbing all his life, jumps on a rated route within their ability and solos to the top vs. a gymn where everyone pushes the kids, who are just learning, to try the climbs with no ropes. It was a boy who died not a man, how do you feel about a 13 year old american being encouraged to free solo by his parents, especially after his 3 siblings have already died doing the same thing. When do you have the right to call a climber or a group of climbers reckless? I can't say I understand it or agree with it and yes I feel that I have the right to call it as I see it. The difference between us calling them stupid and the public calling us stupid, is that we don't die on a regular basis, they do. "This happens all the time at Stolby." Brittany saw it for what it was right off and I'm sure Jonathan sees it the same way after watching a young boy die in front of him and the community shrug it off as commonplace.

Actually the manager was going to refund the original course cost as well as the one that was cancelled. He was going to give Yama all of his money back despite him having completed a course with paid guides, business expense etc. Judging by Yama's e-mails he wasn't too appreciative of this. No the customer isn't always right in fact this one is a moron. His rude comments, idiotic jokes and ridiculous threats make him a candidate for a course black list in my opinion. I would have sent him an e-mail stating he is no longer welcome to attend any CAG's courses. Thanks for posting the e-mails Yama so we could see the whole story. The only successful smearing you've managed to do is against yourself, so you might want to stop that campaign.