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runoutjunkie

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About runoutjunkie

  • Birthday 03/08/1965

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    do they pay?
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    Washington

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  1. Me: Yesterday, we were climbing the Worm Flows route, left the trailhead at roughly 6am, with several parties passing and being passed. One of your party, or you, lost an avalanche transceiver. You: Please be able to identify the brand, how many in your party (I'm pretty sure we saw you, and we couldn't catch up with your group) and with a fairly good description on where you might have dropped it when you and your party were readjusting their clothing. Leave some contact information along with your description if you think this is yours. Just trying to do the right thing, and get it back to the rightful owner.... Thanks for understanding. And, wow, what a spectacular day/weekend.
  2. Marmot sleeping bag- CWM Long. -40F rated extreme sleeping bag in new condition-Gore Dry Loft shell and 775 fill down. The bag is RED and BLACK in color- not pink like it looks in the pictures. Properly stored and rarely used. Includes extra large duffel bag for storage since the loft bag provided by Marmot is not big enough. Also includes compression stuff sack. New CWM Long sleeping bags are $650-$700 (Campmor, basegear, backcountry.com). Asking $500
  3. That's the gravity-monkey on your back, waiting for you to (used so often in this thread, i have to) FUCK up! Pay attention. None of us want to carry out your gear!
  4. ...you can rap uncoiling your rope as you go... Exactly! This also greatly reduces rope drag induced rock fall. IB climbers, take note of this...
  5. I've been on CA a couple of times myself, once just a month ago, and it's a very straight forward climb, with a couple of 'well' bolted hard sections to help those who overestimated their ability. One single rope will get you back to earth, though two will get you down in three raps. At the crags, i see many people lowering climbers on ropes close to the end without a knot in the belay end, and others rapping on ropes without knots in the ends. Tie them together, or tie a knot in each end. Doesn't it make more sense to spend the extra 20 seconds to tie, 20 seconds to make sure you untie it before you pull the knot side of the rappel, and another 20 seconds to tie after threading the chains for the next rappel? For 6 raps (Condorph Add.), that's 6 minutes extra. Sadly and finally, as a teacher, she can help climbers learn this lesson.
  6. Jo, it actually embarrasses me to know you are out there telling others that you are a climber. 2K in gear is not that much, and Leland is one of the nicest, most soft spoken guys around. He did due diligence, and was given an out of date map, which posted the wilderness area on the other side of Garfield. So What?! damn...
  7. Climb: Mt. Garfield-Infinite Bliss Date of Climb: 4/30/2006 We were the party ahead of you on the climb. After getting to the base of the climb, and peering through the occasional break of the clouds at 8am, we (Brent and I) were somewhat daunted by the snow/ice on or about pitch 8 deposited by the previous day's storm. We headed off anyway at just after 8am, figuring to rap out at any point we could gain no more ground. The first four simul-climb pitches went very quickly just under an hour, and the real wetness started where pitch 5 exits the slab. My partner led up the section, and we started trading leads at this point. Once we reached the 5.4 gully base, a minor stream at this point, we stopped for a while and took in the rainy views, with a rainbow chasing toward us from the southwest threatening to cut the day short. It held off, only giving us enough rain to make us think about it, but the rock was dry enough to climb, so we continued on. My partner led the gully, placing in that same cam spot. I came up and took the next lead on the 5.9 section and ran into the same water you described nearing the chains, and opted for a right tending avoidance of the water. It was only a bit runout, and though the rock was not great quality, it was mostly solid. There appeared to be a somewhat loose columnar boulder only 2-3 feet to my right, stay away. Finally, up from here, the rock was very dry, and the climbing was good. We quickly traded leads on 10-11-12. The weather was still breezy and cold, so we decided to rap out then. We saw your final rappel, and also used those stray anchor chains, depositing us right on the trail. Nice. All in all, it was a good day of climbing. The wetness was a time sink. On rappel, we noticed the gully was completely dry, as well as the slab exit, though the snowfield to the right of the gully was still feeding the 'creek' at it's base, and will be for a while judging by the snow depth. Also, sorry for the occasional small rock we set free on the descent. Rapping with people underneath... 12 pitches: 6.5 hours All total: 1 hour hanging admiring the spring nw weather Rapping down: 2.5 hours (simul rapping the slab) Gear Notes: 23 draws, 1/3rd extendable rack to 1", 4-5 cams, stoppers and a couple of tri-cams
  8. Hope the ice is in three weeks from now... Heading to Lillooet for the first ice run this year. After 10hrs on the ice, that was the best plate of spaghetti, ever!
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