Climb: Mt. Garfield-Infinite Bliss
Date of Climb: 4/30/2006
We were the party ahead of you on the climb.
After getting to the base of the climb, and peering through the occasional break of the clouds at 8am, we (Brent and I) were somewhat daunted by the snow/ice on or about pitch 8 deposited by the previous day's storm. We headed off anyway at just after 8am, figuring to rap out at any point we could gain no more ground. The first four simul-climb pitches went very quickly just under an hour, and the real wetness started where pitch 5 exits the slab. My partner led up the section, and we started trading leads at this point. Once we reached the 5.4 gully base, a minor stream at this point, we stopped for a while and took in the rainy views, with a rainbow chasing toward us from the southwest threatening to cut the day short. It held off, only giving us enough rain to make us think about it, but the rock was dry enough to climb, so we continued on. My partner led the gully, placing in that same cam spot. I came up and took the next lead on the 5.9 section and ran into the same water you described nearing the chains, and opted for a right tending avoidance of the water. It was only a bit runout, and though the rock was not great quality, it was mostly solid. There appeared to be a somewhat loose columnar boulder only 2-3 feet to my right, stay away. Finally, up from here, the rock was very dry, and the climbing was good. We quickly traded leads on 10-11-12. The weather was still breezy and cold, so we decided to rap out then. We saw your final rappel, and also used those stray anchor chains, depositing us right on the trail. Nice.
All in all, it was a good day of climbing. The wetness was a time sink. On rappel, we noticed the gully was completely dry, as well as the slab exit, though the snowfield to the right of the gully was still feeding the 'creek' at it's base, and will be for a while judging by the snow depth.
Also, sorry for the occasional small rock we set free on the descent. Rapping with people underneath...
12 pitches: 6.5 hours
All total: 1 hour hanging admiring the spring nw weather
Rapping down: 2.5 hours (simul rapping the slab)
Gear Notes:
23 draws, 1/3rd extendable
rack to 1", 4-5 cams, stoppers and a couple of tri-cams