scrubber

Thanks I needed that today!

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isin't the yellow area they marked as the caution are actually the optimum amount of camming that you want??? It looks like green indicates drastically overcammed, if not already stuck. Wait a second... OK, all new gear climbers should definatley buy these units, then send me a private message about where you got them stuck so I can help you get them back. Expect 6 to 8 season turnaround time before you get them in the mail. I love booty!!!

Please don't try to sew your own slings! I used to work at Onsight in Squish and we got some really scary examples of home jobs in there to re-do. The best part was testing them on the Dynamometer and seeing how strong they actually were! Most other sewing places that have a bar tacker will be unable to sew something that heavy, with that size of thread, at that width. It's a pretty specialized piece of equip. Even if you tried on your own machine you probably would have a hard time acquiring the proper thread (lubricated DC#138 polyester) and your machine wouldn't be able to handle thread that thick. They won't resling metolius cams or the like because the diameter of the stem that the web goes around is so narrow that it significantly weakens the web when sewn in open loop fashon as they do. You may have noticed that metolius uses a tail end of the webbing to make an inner wrap around the stem thereby increasing the diameter that the loaded sling goes around. It's also a royal pain in the ass to set up the machine to sew through three layers like they do. They use a smaller thread and more tacks to get around this problem. If you're in a rush, include a six-pack with your ratty old cams and maybe they'll get processed faster!

Hey, I've got one of those! I found it at an antique shop out east. It was probably bought by someone as a souvnier or decoration for their house because it's literally never been used. Not a scratch. Go figure... now it's on my mantle.

Yup it's got some shorties, but I dare you to try to link anything but pitch 9&10! The rope-drag would be debilitating without double ropes or a quiver of double and triple length slings. Also, please note that the "pitch" lengths in the topo are RAP lengths. The pitches may take considerably more line. And yes, please don't try the last pitch with a 50 m rope as someone mentioned. I'm not even sure you'd be able to reach a tree over the top, let alone make it the 5m back to the chains. I apologise for that, I try to keep them all under 50. You could always do a little pitch to the original starting point of that pitch, out to the left. There have also been a couple of concerns voiced on the grade of the last pitch or two. The cruxes are short, but if you hit them in the heat of the late afternoon (as subsequent repeats have done) they may feel harder. Think of it in the same context of tackling 10+ or 11- on the Apron. Cool and dry are ideal. Enjoy!