Mr_Sleazy

Thanks for all the encouraging words! Get out there with your kids... Matosan: No criticism of your work implied, and no "sorries" needed! I have been very impressed with your book and the work that went into it. I believe it has probably helped a lot of people get out to places they might not ordinarily have visited. It has saved me hours scrounging around on Google Earth or iMap looking for high elevation roads close to interesting peaks. Rating for Sun God (imho) would be a moderate day trip (as far as pure physical effort is concerned) and an easy scramble. I started out with Angus in a backpack doing some of this stuff, he came climbing to Skaha with us when he was about 5 months old. As he got a little bigger he went into the backpack on backcountry ski trips (just day trips to places like Mt Seymour). I think the important thing is the kids have to feel like an equal partner, in planning, setting the pace, etc. Cheers!

Trip: Sun God Mountain - 2421 metres at 7 years old - Date: 9/26/2009 Trip Report: September 26 and 27 / Brian Pegg and Angus Pegg I used to climb all the time. Really! I used to be a pretty good climber. Fact is, though, I haven’t done much of it in the past couple years. Job mainly, also the responsibilities of raising a young boy to adulthood, and this TR is mainly about the second thing. The young boy. In particular, a young 7 year old boy named Angus who doesn’t like piano or spelling but who does like video games, ice cream, wrestling, Star Wars, and bushwhacking. I guess most of those things are pretty typical, but the bushwhacking part might be a little unusual. That brings me to the “meat” of this trip report – a father-son trip to Sun God Mountain next door to Pemberton. We began the trip by negotiating regarding the Saturday art animation classes that Angus is signed up for, he likes these classes a lot but they pretty well kill the weekend for any more serious mountain activity. Our plan was to drive up through Pemberton early on Saturday, hike into a small lake and camp overnight, then get up Sun God on Sunday and home in time to get rested up for school the next day. Directions to the end of the deactivated Tenas Creek FSR were faithfully followed, all I did was plot a GPS track and load it into my Garmin, makes FSR navigation SO much easier. Parked near the end of the road. Got to the end of the driving around 1:00 in the afternoon after a fairly leisurely drive up from Vancouver listening to a “book on CD” in the Jeep – “The Lightning Thief”. Good stuff. The drive was the part of the trip that had Angus the most concerned, he does not like sitting still for hours at a time. Neither do I. We planned to follow the Matt Gunn guide description pretty closely, up a steep bushwhack to a small lake on the ridge to the north of the road. This is a good, direct route. The bushwhack was not too bad, real steep but I think steep is better for bushwhacking – its over quicker that way. Angus had no real problems with this, except constant backwards slippage. His 4x4 traction just wasn’t there, only 60 lbs of weight and not real good tread on his shoes. Next purchase for him will be real hiking boots, but they get expensive when the kid grows out of them in 3 months. Showed him one of my favourite trees on the way up, it became one of his too – subalpine fir, otherwise called balsam, or the “zit tree”. Little pitch bubbles that can be popped, aiming at someone if you are good at it. After a fine 2.5 hours of uphill thrashing we emerged into the heather and found our lake. Scrambles book pegs the bushwhack at 1.5 hrs, which may work if your legs are adult sized. Very nice to drop the packs and sit and relax, but WOW winter is coming early this year. Temps already close to zero at this elevation. Lots of ice the next day. Got our first good look at the W ridge of Sun God, it looks real big from this lake, especially through 7 year old eyes. We confirmed later my observation (made many times about mountains) that they always look harder from a distance than they really are. To bed early, after a typical mountain meal of dehydrated food and cheezies. Angus likes that kind of menu, and appreciated that washing the dishes consisted entirely closing up the ziplock back again and rinsing out a cup. Cold in the morning with ice on the lake. This would be a great swimming spot in August. Off across the boulders and heather to the east, steadily climbing through meadows til they run out and we hit the talus. Route soon got steeper and a bit annoying – the kind of talus that’s always shifting under your weight (scree), but when you stick closer to the ridge the rock is more solid. Angus decided about 35 times that “THIS is as far as I can go” but I basically changed the subject each time and on we went. He was never worried about falling off or anything (you would have to consciously throw yourself off this mountain to fall), but he was just realizing that it was hard work hiking up mountains. Near the top was a bit better rock and the views were amazing. Small summit with a cairn almost as large as the summit platform, a great place to sit and have lunch. Something that I have taken great pleasure from in raising a young boy is that I get to play with lego again. Especially Star Wars lego, which is the best of the best. We discovered that Chewbacca and a stormtrooper, usually bitter enemies, had hitched a ride and made it to the top. I have a strong feeling this is the first time that either of these characters has summitted Sun God Mountain. We sent a message on our SPOT satellite messenger back home so mom would know where we were and as proof that we made the summit. I am really happy with this little device, I do lots of outdoor stuff by myself and although obviously it does not replace a partner or good judgement, it does add a safety margin to solo activities (within limits). Down the way we came and back to the lake to pack. A joyous reunion with the bushwhacking terrain after we packed, into the Jeep and to Pemberton for a meal at the Wildwood. The Matt Gunn scrambles book classifies Sun God as an easy day trip, and gives a difficulty rating of “moderate”. Having done the trip, I would disagree with both ratings. Not with any malice towards the author, that’s just the nature of guidebooks to complicated subjects. The climb itself just barely qualifies as a scramble – there were only 2 places where we needed to use hands, and this was just to pull ourselves up and not to keep from falling off. Mission accomplished. Angus’ first “real” summit, though he has previously been up Mt. Seymour and the Chief trail. Victory pose! That's 7 O'Clock Mtn in the background.

Years back, a friend and I took my sailboat from Vancouver, sailed it up the Sunshine Coast and across Desolation Sound and into Bute Inlet and up the Homathko. Almost blew the mainsail to shreds in the Bute outflow winds. We then hitched a ride from some treeplanters into Scar Creek and with 70 lb packs skied into Waddington. We did the whole trip for about $300 for both of us. This may have been a silly thing to do considering heli access was so well established. However, we poured our hearts and souls into this trip. After the treeplanters dropped us off at snowline, we did not see another person for the next 10 days. Not only that, we saw no helicopters, no fresh tracks, not a sign of human use. All we saw was ice, snow and rock (when we could see at all!) I have no problem with heli access for climbers - its in and out on the machine, is historically well established, and the next time I go in I will probably book a heli for the approach instead of some crazy expeditionary-type adventure. However, to have done our trip and have someone sled past us, or have heliskiers drop down into a place that it took us the better part of a week of sweat and fear to reach would really impact the experience, and make it seem not like a worthy adventure but rather a silly and stupid prank. I will send an email. Brian Pegg

Thanks to whichever mod made this sticky.

Hello Squamish climbers and backcountry users: The Stawamus road that goes up behind the Chief and over to Indian Arm has been closed and gated now for a couple of years, ostensibly due to a bridge washout. The Squamish Forest District website lists this info on their page: STAWAMUS/ INDIAN RIVER Wilderness Forest Service Road Closed - no public access; bridge out at approximately 16.5km ** no anticipated opening date ** The road is barricaded and gated just above the chlorine shack on the Mamquam, and the only way through now is on foot, or with a mountain or dirt bike. The District has spent mucho $$$ on installing boulder blockades and ditching to prevent 4x4 access. The Stawamus / Indian is a major access point for some very good climbing. Included on the list: The south face of Habrich (Life on Earth and other good routes) Sky Pilot and Ledge Mtn (very important alpine area) Fluffy Kitten Wall on the NE side of Habrich The Solarium (yes its shorter and less elevation to go in from behind the Chief) Also lots of winter ice up in the Stawamus Valley I am urging climbers to email the Squamish Forest District and voice their concern over the closure of this road. It is very close to becoming a permanent closure, though when it started the District said it would be temporary. Please email the Squamish Forest District [Forests.SquamishDistrictOffice@gov.bc.ca] to let them know. To make it easier, you may wish to cut and paste the following message into your email: Hello: I am emailing to voice my concern over the continued closure of the Stawamus / Indian FSR, currently gated close to the bottom of the road. This road is a major recreational access point to alpine and subalpine climbing terrain, and is very important to the climbing community. Closure of access roads to backcountry areas substantially increases use impacts to frontcountry areas, such as the Stawamus Provincial Park, as recreational users are confined to more restricted locations. I strongly urge you to re-open this road. Thank you in advance for your consideration. /

Thanks for the quick replies. Sounds like a go. Will be bringing a 4 year old - 5 foot tall boulders are highballs for him. Hopefully the bugs will not be awful.

Hello: Thinking of going up to Tricouni Meadows this long weekend and looking for recent info on Chance Creek road. Already checked Squamish FD site, no info. Thanks in advance!

Photo posted - finally figured it out. Photo shows the leader traversing a cool feldspar dyke on the second pitch over big roofs below. In reference to below - tried to edit out the tilt and cropped a bit too. Better!

Thanks for the thanks! Route is 3 pitches, 5.10b, 5,10b, and 5.10a. Very safe and well protected (in my opinion). I am biased, but believe this is a very very good route. Should be accessible to the masses (like me). Caveats: Its a new route so take the grades with a grain of salt (though all three FAs had consensus) and don't expect Grand Wall cleanliness, especially on the lower part of the route.

Climb: Squamish - New Route on the Solarium - Everything Under the Sun Date of Climb: 6/10/2006 Trip Report: Climbers: Brian Pegg, Karl Manzer, Damien McCombs, and Robin Pegg (as the expedition photographer and the guy who brought the sake) Last weekend we finally did it – finished a project of almost a year, on the Chief Backside about 60 m north of the classic line of Sunblessed. I had first scouted this line in 2001 when my brother and I were scrambling around the backside of the Chief on a rainy day. We decided to visit the vast, unknown crag of “Above and Beyond” because no-one ever climbs there. Well this is still true, but in the process I realized there was a 150 m wide swath of cliff between the last of the Solarium routes (Message from the Stars is the most northerly I think) and the first of the Above and Beyond routes that had never felt the loving touch of a scrub brush. Last summer, on yet another lazy day, my brother and I hiked up with gear and rappelled down onto our proposed line to scout. When I get scared by the exposure on rappel, I know the route could be a good one. This was a gem. Looking from below in 2001, we had seen a steep and great line that seemed to top out by a big undercling past huge roofs. What we had not seen from below, however, was the PROUD line of dyke holds that led past the roof to the right, on a steepening face over top of more giant roofs at the bottom right of the wall. Once this line was seen close up, I knew it was worth some devoted effort. Spent a few weekends over the rest of summer 2005 scrubbing and equipping the route with rap stations, chopped a few trees, and decided to keep a Rubbermaid tub full of cleaning gear and static line up on top of the Solarium. Had some great moments sitting up the top of the Chief by myself watching the sunset and sipping sake…… Yes its sometimes hard to convince your friends to go scrub some obscure line that maybe no-one will ever climb. Well by last weekend the route was ready to go. We spent Saturday scrubbing, and digging out the bottom 10 m of crack climbing. Watched a frog crawl out of a crack in mid-cliff and proceed to do solo slab dynos up a blank 5.12 face before he sketched out. Put him (well threw him maybe) into a nearby tree. The bottom of new routes are always the dirtiest because of that pesky GRAVITY. Too bagged after scrubbing on Saturday for the lead, so up to the top for yet more sake. Sunday morning dawned bright and clear, three pitches of rappel down to the bottom of the climb. Karl takes the first lead, makes it in fine style to the Pitch 1 crux and then goes for a short fall. Bah! Back to the ground (silly rules), and then Karl FIRES THE PITCH. Crux moves traverse under a roof on tiny finger holds, tiny footholds, and tiny gear. Pitch 2 was mine; I was scared and miserable at the anchor. Just as I started to lead this scary, steep monster, thunder and lightning crashed, with strikes on Mamquam and Brohm Ridge. The snow followed soon after, making me rush the lead somewhat! Another traverse under a roof, on slightly bigger holds and gear, leads to the dyke. Move after juicy move led to stance after stance and rest after rest. Good thing too! Up the last dyke holds, then finish the pitch by a wild layback around the top edge of the roofs. Pitch 3 Damien cast off. This pitch was the cleanest as it was scrubbed first, and the rain had touched it up nicely. More underclinging (can you ever get enough?) dumps you at a flaring crack which needs to be climbed by “oozing” up like a slug. Slab moves at the top complete the full spectrum of climbing. The route has every technique except off-width and chimney. Down the trail to buy brew pub off-sales and sit by the Stawamus and bullsh*t. Fixed on a route name at last. Enjoy the topo; I may upload some photos later. Any questions regarding access not answered by the topo: brianpegg(AT)gmail.com For the future: two access pitches below the Secret Garden, which will give a five pitch line 5 minutes walk from the bottom of Sunblessed. Brian Pegg Gear Notes: One 60 m rope will do it, but two skinny ropes is much better. Make sure to bring small gear (purple TCU or black alien) for Pitch 1. Approach Notes: Up the Chief to the top of the Solarium, then rappel. A more complicated access comes in from the Squaw trail below; see topo. Leading out just past the crux of Pitch 2 on the amazing feldspar dyke, big roofs below. 581063-everythingunderthesun.pdf

Hello, all: Bored of the winter weather with no climbing, so thought I would solicit input re: the rudest route names in all Squamish. Aside from Squamish itself, my vote goes to: Robin Pegg "This Ain't No Pussy Crack" at the Fluffy Kitten And yes I am fishing just to get my brother's name available for Google. Thanks for the input! BP

Sunshine Breakfast is mine too, and right now I am beavering away on some more routes around the Solarium. I don't seem able to find any quality new routes that are closer than an hour's hike from the road! Curses...... Glad you enjoyed it. As to dirty! What an insult!(joke). Honestly, Sunshine Breakfast crag was about as naturally clean as it is possible to get in Squamish, because of its southeast aspect (nice and dry, not wet and mossy). Unfortunately, KMclane only gave it one star (not true it is at least 2) and his photo topo is completely wrong. The Bourdon guide reports it correctly. BP

Alternately, I can email the files if anyone is interested - one is a complete guide to the Kitten (same as the Gripped article), and the other is a topo and route description for a line called "The Natural" that goes to Habrich summit up the big wall to the west of the Kitten. bpegg@golder.com

I have hiked up to build trail at the Kitten from that lower gate a few times; even just walking it only takes 1.5 hrs or so to get to the Kitten. Going the other way into Shannon Creek, it probably only adds an hour of approach anyways. I am going to try to add some PDFs with the text descriptions for all the routes and also a PDF topo for the larger buttress right next door to the Kitten (2 routes). Any wizards know how to compress a 400K pdf down to less than 100k??? BP

Hello, Cascaders: The new McLane guide has been out just a couple months now and I notice that the access info for my precious Fluffy Kitten is all out of date. Please note the following important points for the odd person that actually climbs up there: 1. The Stawamus/Indian road is gated right now at its junction with the Mamquam, just a couple km past the Squaw. The road was hit by a number of large landslides the past winter, the first of which is right where you park to go climb at the Kitten. The Squamish District has told me they fully intend to fix the road, but are not willing to say when this will happen or when the gate will be open. It is too bad as the road is fine right up until the Kitten parking area... ****I have heard that some hard-asses are mountain biking up there to go climb. 2. McLane's guide lists incorrect access information. His information was out of date 5 years ago. If you follow his description, you will miss a nice rope bridge in favour of devil's club bushwhacking. Yuck. ****The right access is to stop (park when the gate is finally open) on the Stawamus/Indian FSR at the first big washout after the 5 km sign. Walk down the washout and look left (upstream) to a rope bridge. Cross over and follow the flagging uphill and right to the base of the wall (45 mins hiking). I have put more detailed info onto rockclimbing.com here: http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listArea.php?AreaID=4564 Also check out the PDF topo attached above; hopefully it is helpful. Any questions please ask, and I would love to hear if anyone has been up there this year (I haven't, I have been scrubbing at the Solarium!). Brian Pegg 499431-Kittentopo.pdf

Aye, Fern I forgot about that bolt. I placed that one after leading that pitch, just because I thought that any cams placed behind that thin flake would not be likely to hold a fall, and may even break off the edge. True, it is unlikely that anyone would fall off there if they already made it through the harder climbing below, but I wanted to make the route real safe. OK so the route has FOUR bolts. The chopped bolt down below was part of an extraneous rap station that I removed to clean up the route - you can easily reach the top of the Scratching Post from the Pitch 4 anchors. In light of all the extra stations present now, I probably did not need to bother. Oh well. Every pitch has some kind of challenge, even if they are not technical cruxes. Pretty sustained route.

Thats great I was going to write my first trip report ever on this board and I was scooped! Oh well, I guess I will just supplement the report above! Fern we followed your chalk marks all the way up. Climb: Wonderful Thing About Tiggers, Fluffy Kitten Wall, Squamish Climbers: Brian Pegg and Andy Durie, Seven years later, and it was Gr-r-r-reat! Date: July 25, 2004 Trip Report: My friend Andy Durie and I managed to put this route up in 1997, and I hadn't climbed it again despite visiting the Kitten numerous times since. The weather lately has been so dry that we felt conditions on the Kitten would be prime, and considering that the Grand and Apron etc. are baking in the sun all afternoon, there was no other route we wanted to be on. Drove up the road early on Sunday morning in my brother's pickup, noticed that one of the washouts on the road is a bit worse than usual due to the rainstorms last October, but overall the road is still drivable with a 2WD as long as you don't care about looking good in your ride on Robson Street. Hiked down and across the rope bridge, still in stable condition, then a sweaty 30 minutes took us to the base of Tiggers. Began racking up around 10:00 in the morn, and right as Andy began leading the first pitch another party showed up to climb our route! Honestly, when there are line-ups at the Fluffy Kitten, things must be desperate down in the valley. The wall gets climbed, but not nearly as often as it deserves. I had forgotten just how excellent the climbing was on this route, with pitch after pitch of full-bore crack climbing on about as natural a line as you can get. Only 3 bolts in seven pitches of climbing (not counting the rap stations). The rock is super friction-y and was dry as old bones, even inside the cracks. Some dry slime is present inside the cracks, especially in the first two pitches, but was no deterrent at all. We scrubbed and crack-picked seven years ago, but even so the route is much cleaner now than when we finished with it then - I can only assume that it is actually cleaning up from all the climbers. But seriously at 1000 m asl on a north-facing wall you can't bitch too much about dirt. Pitch 4 (the "challenging lead") went well, much like Fern says, semi-insecure flaring hand jams but really solid feet, and every 6 or 8 feet a little parallel 'pod' gives you good gear as long as you have a few extra .75" to 1.5" pieces. A gold camalot protects the last few moves to the anchor. The extra bolt stations on this route are from a really bold winter mixed line, and they do unfortunately detract from the route a bit, but the Tiggers anchors must have been buried under ice at the time of the FA. Noticed some of the Tiggers bolt hangers were bent, likely from the spring snow/ice slides on the wall. I led pitch 6 (the crux) as in 1997 I was so scared and tired from bolting on the lead with a stupid hand drill that I didn't free the crux move at the last bolt. This time around, the moves felt much easier, cleaner and safer (well no surprise the bolts are already there) and I struggled up after only one "honest fall". Both Andy and I felt that the hard move on that pitch (at the third bolt) was not 11a, but maybe more like 10c, with the moves leading up to it 10a or 10b. Make it dirty or wet, however, whole different story. Topped out around 2:00, then went down and finished up on "This Ain't No Pussy Crack", a filthy name for an only slightly filthy route. Cleaned out the crack on that one a bit more. I was really happy to see Fern's trip report, as it makes me feel a bit like a proud father when people climb these routes. Plus I hope that word gets around even more about the great climbing up there, yes it can be dirty but won't be for long with more traffic. The entire wall is really dry right now and conditions really could not be better, especially considering the heat wave down low. I would love to see someone else put up a route on this wall, there are about 100 lines just waiting for a scrub brush and a month of weekends. Plus, the big wall to the west (Habrich's north buttress) has only two lines on it so far. Final notes: Use the Gripped article for everything besides Tiggers(including the all-important access) as McLane's book is long out of date for the Kitten. Hopefully that will be rectified in the next edition of Squamish Rock.

Thanks for the plug! The topo can be found at http://www.meingh.com/free_topos.htm Wish I knew whose line is fixed. It is in place for working a nice looking roof underneath Sunshine Breakfast, not on that route. Could be A.Boyd? Enjoy! 221644-Sunshine Breakfast.pdf