ddday

Thanks for the post, I am considering taking my son and his buddy but not sure what footwear they need. Normally I would go in a sturdy hiking boot but you had success with tennis shoes? I would not do the same but maybe a lightweight hiker would work? Issue is my kid not having hiking boots at the moment, he keeps growing out of them. We're aiming for Austeria as I did Eldo many years back. Did you notice if the rock slab for camping at the base is melted out and dry?

Re: the exit groove - I wish. I gave it the college try but it wasn't in the cards. Re: wind - it was perfect actually, though yes at times it was a bit hard to hear each other. It got a chilly at about pitch 19 as the sun was turning the corner and casting us into shade but all in all no complaints about the weather. Glad you found some slabbish fun as well. In hindsight we should have poked around the base of the route a bit as we may have found the hangers from bolt #2. Dan

Trip: Darrington - Slab Daddy Date: 5/4/2015 Trip Report: My buddy Einar and I left Seattle at 5:30am for a rather unprecedented early attempt on Slab Daddy up the Squire Creek Drainage. We arrived at the trailhead at around 7:00am with temps in the Mid-30's. At the second washout we looked up to a fantastic view of the route. The trail to the creek is in good shape, and crossing was...bracing. Thankfully Einar brought some river shoes as I was rather unprepared. The creek was only 18" deep so no worries there. We arrived at the base about 80 minutes from the trailhead. To our pleasant surprise there wasn't a drop of snow at the base or on the route. So in the spirit of getting in the full monty we decided to try the first three pitches. The first bolt is in the runoff but you can traverse in from slightly higher to gain the 2nd bolt in dry territory. Unfortunately it and the 2nd bolt have no hanger. Even after trying to secure a nut to the post we decided to back off. From the start you can go up and right to a flat area. From there do some low 5th class scrambling, then up and through trees onto another slab for some sketchy unprotected moves, then back into schwack territory for 150' which brings you to the base of the 4th pitch. We didn't cut left until we hit the wall. The route was dry with the exception of the first real 'slap and pray' pitch 6 which had some nice running water which made the moves on dry ground very thoughtful. Heading Up Pitch 12 Looking Down Pitch 13 The End is near... We arrived at the top at 6:09 pm and were back to the base of the route, packed up and starting down at 10pm. A bit slow but we were being pretty conservative on linking rapels since a stuck rope would make for a long night. We descended the first 3 pitches in the dark so while most of them looked dry I can't say for sure it's safe or if other hangers are missing. Temps in darrington were 72, we had perfect sun and a nice breeze all day. this is truly a classic route. Dan Gear Notes: We took a rack of singles up to #2, and 1 #4, 14 draws. That was more than sufficient for all the pitches except pitch 21 but by that time you get a little accustomed to mind rattling runouts. We only linked pitch 11&12, simul climbed 8&9. I found pitch 21 slightly confusing - be sure to push out left to the obvious shallow right facing dihedral, there's an early left facing dihedral option I started up and had to back down. You can be a saint and bring 3-4 3/8" hangers and nuts to restore the route to it's original glory. Approach Notes: After the 2nd washout the trail to Squire Creek is about 150 yds ahead, and is very obvious. Follow it to the Creek and look upstream for the big Bonzi Rock, cross here, go up and through the ferns looking for the trail into the forest on the left in about 300'. The trail through the trees is in good shape, but could use some maintenance by us all by tossing out dead sticks etc. It's longer than I expected but takes you right to the base of the route proper. Don't DIY this approach or you will regret it.

Trip: Mt Baker - Coleman Demming Date: 9/8/2012 Trip Report: After not finding any late season trip reports we took a chance and headed up the CD last weekend. The snow was very consolidated making glacier travel very quick. We crossed a few dozen crevasses, but the worse was a 1 foot step over and no big diversions to get around them. Gaining the pumice ridge was a bit tricky - actually turning around one party, but us and several other teams managed to negotiated it. For the TAY crowd the upper Roman is heavily suncupped which would take the joy out of it for most of us then you'd have to boot the pumice ridge. From the base of the ridge down would be okay if you stay alert. We ran into a guided party in the parking lot who had bailed off the N ridge low on the route so the season might be finally over for it. btw - one low point: it's hard to express the disdain for the scumbags who leave their giant human waste bag in plain view at the Heliotrope ridge, and the other's who left their big pile of crap and TP 25' from the only water supply in the camp. If you want to make sainthood bring a few garbage bags to haul this crap out on your next trip. Gear Notes: Crampons, ice axe, rope Approach Notes: I'd rope up from the 6k Camps

Trip: Peak 8252 - Full N Arete Varden Creek Spire Date: 8/1/2009 Trip Report: Brad and I left Everett at 3:30 pm intent on reaching Burgundy Col that evening. Traffic and farm tractors seemed to be conspiring against us but ultimately we arrived at the turnout at around 7:00pm. It took a few minutes for us to line up on the BC trail which isn’t obvious from the road. I made note of a large black rock that marks the trail just down the hill about 100yds up from the left edge of the turnout. The trail is very obvious once you find it. We headed off sampling a few blueberries down at the creek crossing, and dropping some cold one’s (compliment’s of the thoughtful Brad) for the triumphant return. About an hour and a half later we arrived at the bench, a beautiful local, worthy of camping but buzzing with mosquito’s so in spite of the setting sun we pressed on arriving at the Col by headlamp about 3 hrs after leaving the car. Surprisingly, we had the Col to ourselves. Saturday morning we awoke to Bluebird skies and only a few skeeters, we used a rope to get down the steep, loose debris adjacent to the remainder of the snowfield. (a note: if you have a junk rope you can leave there on your next climb it may keep some day hikers from getting killed, we saw a large group that had gone down the slope unroped, and reportedly, justifiable nervous). The top of the snowfield was 20’ below the camp (surprising since on my last visit at same time of year the snowfield was about even with camp). We dropped our bivvy gear at the base of Chianti and made our way across to the base of Varden Creek Spire. Standing at the true toe of the route we thought it more adventurous to do the ‘full N. Ridge’ of the Arete. Note that the TR posted in 2007 starts on a bench a few pitches up. Our addition starts where the toe reaches the lowest point and heads up through the obvious crack system into two slightly imposing left facing dihedrals (5.7-5.8), it all pro’s well and I thought a nice warm up for the balance of the route. Figure on 1 200’ lead, and a second simulclimb over easy terrain for 300’ to reach the base of the route. Make sure to veer right to the edge of the arête to find the base of the route. View from the toe of the buttress. The route runs straight up through the sunlit left facing dihedral. Brad heading up P1, route follows skyline on right. Not much to report on the route proper. The topo was a little vague, with the best advice being ‘stay as close to the arête as possible and you’ll do fine. Note that Pitch 2 joins the right facing dihedral about 15’ up from the roof, not at the corner as shown. I'm still not sure about Pitch 7 as I was psyched about getting on a little more technical climbing on the 5.9 variation. However, the moves off the arête looked greate, but didn’t didn’t seem to match the ‘lieback’ description, then the arête looked blank after that, so I ended up dropping down off the arête and wrapping around 15’ to the left to a good belay alcove. From there we led up through what I presume was the 5.7 variation. I looked off to the right to a likely 5.9 corner but the rock had a lot more lichen than I was interested in so I carried on up the friendlier line. The prominant formation about 2/3 up the ridge in this picture is the end of the route. We wrapped around the summit block and finished off up to the summit. I’m not sure which line the first ascent party went up but I started straight up some blocky moves that led into a left facing dihedral. You’ll note two large flakes on the right, the first takes pro, the second is loose! We tried to dislodge it on the way downj. Even though it’ll shift 6-8”, scary when you grab it, it would not break loose. From there it was straightforward as I passed the first set of rap slings then headed right, up an exposed crack to the base of the final sumit moves. The last bit takes you to a tabletop sized ‘summit’, an awesome finish. Enjoy the moves, because you’ll need to reverse them on the way down as there are no fixed anchors on top but it is protected by a fixed pin. Brad on his way up the final summit block. Descent: Because we approached from the Burgundy Col, we descended the obvious col on the West side of the ridge. We left rap slings for those who want to avoid a short, sketchy downclimb section. From the bottom of the col, descend left to the snowfield, and continue down the fall line. From the snowfield we left two large cairns about 100 yds downslope marking the scramble out. Be sure to follow this exit if you go to the West, as all other lines cliff out as near as we could see. All in all it is a route reminiscent of W. ridge of Forbidden, or N. Ridge of Stuart, much longer than the former, and not nearly as good as the latter but certainly a worthwhile endeavor. Gear Notes: Single set of nuts, double cams up to #2 camalot, brought slings but rarely used them, it's a pretty direct line. Approach Notes: I’d recommend the BC approach as it’s well-traveled, and although somewhat lengthy, the traverse to the base of the route takes you across glacier polished slabs and below some Silver Star and spectacular cliffs above. I’d be interested to hear if someone tries the Varden Creek approach as it is by far the shortest way in but with significant ‘shwack potential.

Trip: Mt. Thompson - W. Ridge Date: 8/17/2008 Trip Report: My son and I hiked in to Ridge Lake Saturday afternoon with a NOAA forecast under our belt predicting good weather around Mt. Thompson thru Sunday afternoon. Even arriving in the evening we were able to choose from several nice campsites. We settled in to a beautiful evening with only modest mosquito and black fly issues - saturating the skin with DEET helped. At around 2am the rain and lightning started up, but,interestingly with no thunder , and when I awoke the ground was so dry I thought maybe I had dreamt the rain. My friend who showed up Sunday morning confirmed otherwise as his departure from Seattle was in heavy rain, lightning and thunder. Dan arrived around 8:30am, at which point we headed on in to Bumble Bee Pass (20min) then up to the Notch (2hrs later). After a bit of handwringing about weather systems moving through and lightning potential we decided it was okay to go. At 1:15pm the three of us arrived at the summit, back to camp by 4:00pm, broke camp and hiked out via the CW trail in 3hrs. Route is clean with minimal rockfall hazard, the descent is pretty straightforward, just follow the trails through the heather. A couple of pix can be found here. Mt Thompson Pix Gear Notes: Rope, Small Rack, Helmet Approach Notes: The PCT and approach to the climb is virtually snow free with a small patch remaining at the lake to keep you summit beers cold.

thanks for the beta - I'm a little concerned about the 'schrund. Are we talking impossible here, or just some creativity needed.

Great Topo! the pix are nice and helping me plan a trip in early September also on the MG, do you think the glacier will be in good condition? Also, did you guys ever need crampons?

2nd link should work fine

Hopefully this link works. IC Glacier or this one http://picasaweb.google.com/funhaugs2000/IceCliffGlacier?authkey=ub1vZWp44uI

Thanks for the inspiring TR, my buddy and I climbed the route on Sunday, then skiid the Sherpa. Terrific Day. Wasn't even on my hitlist 'till the TR's started dropping.

Okay folks, hadn't considered the potential for a 3 takers in 12 hours. I suppose the fair thing to do, is to go on a first come first serve which was a response at 11:48am. Sorry to the others who responded but I'll pop you an email if he bails. Any other input on 'consolidation' status is happily received.

Been climbing Rock/Alpine since '85 (5.10-5.12), got the Ice Climbing bug two weeks ago on NE Buttress of Chair. Want to take a run on Saturday but usual suspects otherwise engaged. I'm geared up - but only 5 screws, may need 1 or 2 more based on report from friends. Looking to make an early start. Trip is conditions dependent - NWAC looks okay but not stellar for Saturday.

Check the Gallery for pix.

It's gone, we climbed it saturday with no problems. There is a block of snow at the top that looks more menacing than it is. We steered around to the right on the slab to avoid it in case it cut loose, made for more entertaining climbing that way. It'll probably be gone by this coming weekend anyway. The lower pitches are great. I'll try to post some pix tomorrow.