skyclimb
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Posts posted by skyclimb
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What a great area for climbing. I was privlidged to hang out with mister E and AlpinFox, and climb at this beautiful area. Obviously a lot of time, effort, and money was put in by these gentlemen to create a place for great sport climbing at a higher elevation near Seattle.
Thanks guys!
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christian brothers traverse-all single bolt star drive belays need replacement.
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Hell yeah dude!
that route looks really good. We we out there from the 31-3 and managed epinephrine and black orpheus(unfortunatly no chicken lips link up...), but I was secretly scheming a way to get a few more days for Inti. Would you recommend saying fuck the resolution and just linking inti wantana into the upper resolution?
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Nice Work,
Glad to hear you tore it up and the decent worked out well!
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Layton, you pink jacket wearing, funny as MOFO...nice TR.
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Trip: Zion - Moonlight Buttress
Date: 12/15/2006
Trip Report:
What can I say about Zion this time of year? It is cold, isolated from the crowds, and still holds the wonder and awe of an amazing National Park. My good Friend Eric and I migrated from our respective homes to this sanctuary with the intent of ticking off the Moonlight Buttress.
Driving the icy roads into the park from the north, I was humbled as always when I saw the size of the walls in the claustrophobic Virgin River canyon.
Eric and I rendevoused that night at the climbers campground at mile marker 23.8 on the road to Zion, and prepared for our next days rope fixing extravaganza. This preperation was hours of drinking cheap, potent, libations and smokations!
Wading the Virgin River the next morning was a joy, as it was only knee deep and a whopping 39 degrees....we were wondering where the PBR girls were on a glorious day such as this. The route starts as a 5.8 corner that has fun climbing, and varied movements, followed by a c1 pitch traversing uner a roof, and a drilled angle ladder pitch(easiest of the route). We fixed these three pitches, and spent the night in Springdale eating and drinking.
As per schedule we waded the river the next morning at about 5:00a.m., jugged our ropes to the top of pitch 3, and began the adventure. Eric got the dihedral pitch...180 feet of splitter c1. I got the roof pitch/chimney that is grunty aiding, followed by red aliens for 50 feet...Eric linked the two spliter straight in crack pitches...At this point we are racing the sunset. I embarked on the nutting pitch to be benighted, and Eric finished the last pitch with 5.7 free at about 11:00p.m.
The decent is a glorious paved trail that gently returned us back to the canyon floor and keystone ICE!!!
A very classic route, easy aid, great position and setting.
Happy Holidays, and a great New Year!
Gear Notes:
Doubles, and triples of yellow and red alien, 3.5 camelot is the biggest you need.
Approach Notes:
Wad the river and you are there
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This is a tragic event for the climbing community to lose someone as energetic and enthusiastic about our sport. Vern Will be missed...My condolences go out to Tara and their child.
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Fuck that sounds fun
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Looking for a partner to do some fun stuff at red rocks...epinephrine...dream of wild turkeys....stuff in the loop....My schedule is flexible, just let me know
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Hell yeah Man
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Thanks much for the info guys,
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Hey everyone,
I will be working a stint outside of albequerque, and am curious about good routes in the sandias....Classic mulitpitch/single pitch of whatever grade
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Hell Yeah guys! That is a down right classy looking line, and a classy TR to accompany it. Sounds like a fun day in da Hillz. Keep rippin'
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Climb: Mt. Whitney-East Face
Date of Climb: 9/25/2006
Trip Report:
What a fun route on really good rock! We left the Car at about 6:30 a.m. after a great breakfast from a good friend, and meandered to the base of the route by about 11:00. We simul-climbed the first 7 or so pitches in 1 pitch, and then got off route...LOL...From here we ended up pitching it out...doing about 5 full rope lengths. Ended up getting back to the car at about 9:00p.m., for a great day of alpine fun....the decent is still good to go, bare rock with snow in couloirs.
Gear Notes:
Anorexic rack....4 cams, small set of nuts
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Some pics are in the gallery...including a overlay of the route....Forgot how to upload photos onto the page...sorry. Anyways, where the route drops onto the right side of the ridge(dashed line on photo), best route is the flaring squeeze chimney...all other route finding is fairly straight forward.
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Looking for a partner to do Alpine rock routes in the sierras...Long free routes.
Cheers,
Nick
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Excellent pictures! What a classic!
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LOL! Pax...looks like great minds think a like!
Great route....even though I had to settle for one of the latter ascents, unlike Mr. Husbands who probably had one of the first ascents way back in the 90's. Shit, a 50 meter gold line rope...that must have been heavy!
Good to hear from you guys, Mark I may be headed to to Sierra here in a week or so...drop a line. -
WOW!
Amazing perseverance
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Don't try to walk off...took longer than the climb
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We did this route about a week ago, and had a great time. Started from the car at 2:30 a.m. and were able to make it to the start of the ridge at sun-up at a lesiurely pace. Climbed for about 3 pitches, of cold windy terrain, and then got lost. We ended up to the right of the route, however the rock was still solid, and got some good solid face climbing pitches. This also was a blessing because the ridge protected us from the wind....anyways, topped out and made the two single roped rappels down the owen/spaulding route. These raps were pretty iced up.
The exum was good to go as of a week ago.
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We climbed this route a few days ago via saddleback lakes. This is the prominent ridge of opposite aspect from the elephants perch.
Starting from the toe it tooks us 9 pitches of sustained 5.9 climbing that featured perfectly flawless fingers, hands, fists, o/w, squeeze chimneys and face climbing. From the top of the perch another 5 pitches of 5.6 ridge running with great exposure took us to the top of the main formation-Grade IV 5.9
Descent is easy if you go to the main summit, as you walk down a scree gully to the south east. If you stop at the top of the perch, then you can make several raps down the north face, or scrammble off the west face and make two raps into the gully.
The folks at Elephants Perch Mountaineering in ketchum, Id had great information for us on this route, which was very helpful due to its obscurity. Stop in there if you need any info on routes in the range.
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Naw, Friday and Saturday for the climb... driving through Leavenworth on Thursday I was wondering if you were in the neighborhood....
traveling Band
[TR] Graybeard - North Face 5/6/2007
in North Cascades
Posted
Looks like a great climb guys. Shit, that looks like some bomber ice for May? Fuckin A