Gaston
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Posts posted by Gaston
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Hey Bobby,
I won't be here in June, but right now I live in France and can offer ideas on routes, areas to visit, etc. If you're set on doing the Petit Dru, then I would consider staying put in Chamonix and avoid spreading yourself too thin. The mountains there are a more than a lifetime's worth. Also, take note that the Dru has changed substantially recently (massive rock slide on the west face, where the American Direct is located). I'm not sure how much the AD has changed, but I know a lot of the routes have been erased. A venue for real adventures...PM me if you have specific questions.
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If you will be in Chamonix during this period (or anytime this winter/early spring) and would like to do some routes, please contact me. I live in France right now and would be happy to help with logistics, phone calls, or wine reccomendations.
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I am looking for partners for any kind of climbing this winter in the French alps. I'm living at the southern end of the alps until April, near the ice climbing centers of l'Argentiere and la Grave. But it's also easy enough for me to get up to the Chamonix area, with which I am pretty familiar. I have lots of spare time, I speak French, and I'm easy to get along with. It's a broad invitation, so give it some thought. I'd love to help with travel arrangements, route information, or anything else. And I'll buy you fondue. PM me if you are interested.
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The east ridge definitely goes in a day. I soloed it earlier this summer in 9 hours car to car, and I'm no triathlete. Most of the time is taken by the approach; it's only 400 vertical feet from the beginning of the 5th class rock to the summit. Just be sure to reserve plenty of energy, patience, and focus for the east face descent route, which is tiresome and loose. Enjoy.
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This is preposterous. Anyone who crafts a post with such attention to detail and cool, off-handed language like "monkey businesse" is obviously a phony. Nice try, goatboy. Go climb something for real, and then give a post like the rest of us do: short, incoherent, vague.
What's up with the "Pumpkin" thing, anyway?
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I'll be living somewhere in Southern France from October until next spring, and would love to climb with someone from the NW. I expect to have a fair amount of spare time, as well as several vacations from my work in the school system. I've been to Chamonix a few times, and will be there for two weeks at the end of September with my partner. PM me and we can talk.
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This is a broad invitation. I have many projects in mind, and would be open to suggestions; one climb or several, whatever works. The weather looks like it will fall apart somewhat on Monday night, but I'd like to remain hopeful. Some possibilities: Baker N ridge, Buckner N face, Anything in the S Pickets (I'd love to camp out for a few days there with a rack and rope). Fast car-to-car climbs are fine, if that's what you have time for. I live in the Skagit Valley, so I can put you up for the night if you're coming from far away. I'm competent, fit, and motivated. PM me or call me at 360-853-7724. Be persistant, I've no answering machine. If you want to start something early on Sunday, don't hesitate to call early.
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On Saturday I climbed New York Gully on the north face of Snoqualmie mountain with my friend J. It was in predictably poor condition, with little solid ice and substantial sugar snow concealing rock holds and protection opportunities. Our route matched very well with the photo in Nelson, although I think we skipped the last pitch in the dihedral/chimney system by traversing off to the right. Like many other parties who have done the climb this year, we found that several landmarks from the route description were missing--the chockstone, the small tree belay, the overhanging flake. But the box gully is unmistakeable, as is the feeling of climbing 5.8 AI4 A2 in marginal condition. The frozen moss lumps were amazingly strong; I weigh 185 and did pull-ups on them in a couple of spots. I suppose they are mostly water...We did eight roped pitches, all of wich I led, partly because it was J's second time using ice tools and partly because he lost a crampon immedietly after starting up the box gully. He followed with exceptional speed, considering. We took 15 hours car to car. Here is the rack we brought:
1 set of nuts
6 cams covering 1/2 inch to 3 inches
2 lost arrows (3 would be better)
4 knife blades
4 full length runners
4 double length runners
2 quick draws
We used one 50m rope, but if I were to do it again (no way in hell) I would take two 60s. Retreat was an unpleasant thought because the traverse at the beginning brings you out over a big drop that one rope would not get you down. If anyone goes up there soon (ha ha), please pick up the Grivel crampon at the end of the second traverse pitch and email me--I'll send you cookies for it. I was skeptical at first about the Grade IV designation, but no longer. This is my first trip report on cc.com, so let me know what I left out.
Chamonix April 2-15
in Climbing Partners
Posted
If you will be in Chamonix during this period and would like to meet up and climb, send me a PM. I'm interested in all sorts of routes, and I know the area fairly well. My phone number in France is 06 88 99 52 69.