erewhon
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Yep, Got a fantastic team of 4 heading up this season. A big thanks to Mark Westman and Joe Puryear for the great beta they shared with us!
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Absolutely. I would definitely take aluminums for the Washburn Route (WButt). 1. You will definitely not be climbing in sandals but rather in some sort of boot with actual structure lending to a more rigid platform to stand on. 2. They dont transmit the cold like steel crampons do allowing one to have a little toastier toes up high. 3. Insanely lighter. 4. I have summitted Denali several times with aluminum crampons and have never had any problems whatsoever while all my other partners have bi*ched at thier lead framed feet. Aluminum crampons have gotten a bad rap for many reasons. Unfortunately they are usually irellevant or "old school" egotistic reasons (IMHO). Never had a problem with them dry tooling, climbing Yocum, or up high on Denali or Aconcagua. For general mountaineering they are more than enough, but you must consider your entire footwear system as a whole. This is technical footwear, and not just slapping a pair of whatever boots are here and whatever steel (thought as bombproof) crampons are there... Ive seen far more steel crampon failures than aluminums. I would have to ask who here giving you advice has actually climbed this route. BTW: Where the hell is the Washburn Face?
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Denali South Buttress - May of 2005 Currently looking for a few team members to join us for an attempt of the South Buttress of Denali this upcoming 2005 season. Scheduling for May 9th to June 4th. Previous experience at altitude is necessary. If interested please contact Robert at erewhon00@yahoo.com or phone at 503-970-0186.
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Denali South Buttress - May of 2005 Currently looking for a few team members to join us for an attempt of the South Buttress of Denali this upcoming 2005 season. Scheduling for May 9th to June 4th. Previous experience at altitude is necessary. If interested please contact Robert at erewhon00@yahoo.com or phone at 503-970-0186.
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Used this combo while on Denali a few years back. When placed under load the pully cracked, snapped, and shattered due to the temperatures. Also damaged the rope sheath. If youre in an emergency just use a DOval Kairbiner, and a tiblock. Safer, Stronger, Lighter, Better.
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Ive already used the XGK and have two. Im just wondering about taking the Simmerlite for the team backup/secondary.
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Hilleberg Nallo 2/ Bibler I/ Stephenson 3R- Best?
erewhon replied to Fuggedaboudit's topic in The Gear Critic
Ive had the Nammatj 3GT and now climb with a Nallo 2. Tons of room and love the system better than the Stephensons due to the fact you can dig into the vestibule for added space. Also the double walls are nice;). The Nammatj stood up to 60+mph winds like a bloody brick house with 4 people inside sleeping away the night. The 2 man has enough room for 3 in a pinch or ultra comfy for 2 on an expedition and is lighter than any Bibler stronger too. The vestibule is roomy as its elongated. Petra at the WA office is really nice to boot. Best customer service of any manufacturer. Worth every penny and will be going back to McKinley time and time and time and time again. -
Wanted to see if anyone here has attempted to use the MSR Simmerlite above 14k feet, and if so how did it do? Comparable with Wisperlites? Im thinking for up high and cold would this stand up to MSR's namesake?
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Try looking at Hilleberg Nallo 2 about the same only a little more functional for expeditions, and still weighs in at less than 4lbs. Looooove that bergy!
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Piece of !#*#@ & nothin' else. Damn thing cant hold up to 20mph winds, and leaks through the seams. I rely completely on my Hilleberg Nallo tent and if I want to shed weight Ill take out the inner tent. Sleeps 3 that way. Or just take a tarp or better yet stay home when its nasty. Sorry but I do not believe the LSabre could hold up to 12 hours of REAL rain. Not from what Ive seen.
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Never been much for climbing simply for the summit, just was taken back by the few photos Ive seen and have been drawn to it ever since. Joe check your PM's Id love to get some beta if possible. Geeze it looks like an easy afternoon of skinning!
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Which Wayne? WW? Anybody got beta on the 1954 route ie pic's of different parts/obstacles? Particularly on the Lotsa Face. Planning to give her a go next season and need all the info available. Strange how little is available on this route! Thanks!
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Okay so I sprung for them since they felt good out of the box. Climbed Cooper Spur (Hood) wed, and did hikes (24 miles) on th/fri just to break them in. Very flexible for a full shank boot allowing on e to log many miles without any heel lift. I have "British feet" being wide yet low profile/volume, and these boots are designed with that in mind. A really good lacing system (alot of adjustment possibilities), BIG toebox, tight heel, and what everywhere looks to be excellent workmanship for a $265 msrp boot. Would have little problem taking them to Rainier as they are lightly lined. The only tip I might add is that sizing is a bit funky as I downsized a full 1.5 US to get the right fit. Overall I am very satisfied with this purchase and fell they are a great contender for the lasportiva line.
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Bibler Winter Bivy (The only bibler product that does what it says it will!) Cheap, HIGHLY breathable, and weather resistant, and light light light!
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Anybody try these boots yet? Any tips on sizing Asolos since they tend to run a full size larger than others? Look like a pretty good Rainier boot.
