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kevinoregon

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Posts posted by kevinoregon

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    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    I always see people sticking cams straight into a crack. If fell on, it may hold or it may not. One thing is certain though. It will have to move in line with the direction of fall, so when it is placed it must be placed in the direction of fall just like all other pieces. Then there is the issue of the force on all the other pieces below it. When the rope goes tight, it could pull other pieces out below. Then what happens if the cam pulls? You got it...whaaaaaaaaa. Quickdraws should not be used for trad.

    Fear of Falling

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    So many times I see good climbers who will continually drop it down a few grades before they will lead trad. Falling on a bolt is one thing, but falling on a chunk of steel and cable stuck in a crack is quite another. How do you know if it will really hold unless you fall on it? If you are just starting to lead, even the thought of falling on a bolt can paralyze you with fear. How do we get over it?

     

    I remember my battle with the fear all those years ago. The skin scraped off my body as I used it to try to slow my decent. Hanging on to an edge until my fingers just couldn't hold on any more. The paralyzing fear. I know how I got over it. I fell. I always pushed my limits, so fell a lot. Now I don't even worry about it. Until last year, I had not taken a long fall on gear for at least 12 years and what did I do when I got my hands all tied up and out of sequence? Just let go and pushed off with my last piece at least 15 feet below me.

     

    So, here are a few tips that I picked up along the way:

     

    1. Climb with someone experienced to check your placements.

     

    Good placements are not only about the chock in the crack. It is also about where the chock is. What is below you if you do fall? How far to your next stance? Put in two pieces if you can see a long runout through a crux section.

     

    2. Maybe try some aid climbing to gain experience and confidence

     

    3. Once you know you are in the habit of good placements, push your limits.

     

    You will never get over the fear of falling unless you fall and you will never fall if you always drop it down a few grades.

     

    Lets hear some other stories about the battle with the mind.

     

    Leavenworth 21st-25th

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    I will be heading up there and could use someone to climb with on at least Sat and Sun. Get in touch if you want to climb or if you wouldn't mind a third on some .8-.10s. If anyone wants a ride from Portland, I will be driving.

    Open Book - Tahquitz

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    I have a question about the Open Book route in Tahquitz. We were standing at the bottom of it last week and my partner says the guide says that several 3"" to 4"" pieces are handy. Not required, but handy. It has always been my experience that there is a difference between handy and requrired, so I want to go since we have at least 3 pieces of that size, but he will not. So the question is: Can this climb be adaquately protected with just a few of the larger sizes?

    Poll - Running It OUt

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    One of the things I love about climbing is the feeling I get when I am climbing above my gear. Once out there, every move requires risk analysis and sometimes falling is not an option. One of the scariest was not a long runout, but my feet were 8 ft above a small stopper that I did not feel real good about and the moves were through the 11a crux on a blank section of wall. I finally got back into crack below a roof, but was too tired to hang and put something in. Even though the runout was not great, the ground would be next if the stopper blew. It is in those moments where you find out where your head is at. I think we all know what will happen if panic sets in. I did the only thing I could. I made another move through the roof and found a good stance.

     

    This year I took about a 30 ft fall on a bomber stopper. It was the first time I have fallen that far in about 10 years or more. I pulled the crux move the second time. I had to cause I knew there would not be enough for a third try. When I am feeling good and my head is in the right place, crux moves above my gear can be exciting.

     

    So yeah, I will run it out on hard moves. Not 100 ft out. Risking a 20 or 30 ft fall is plenty run out for me and I will try to stay away from the 'falling is not an option' situations, but if you find yourself in one of those situation being able to keep a cool head will likely get you through it.

    City of Rocks

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    The City is great. Over 1000 climbs to choose from. A few days would not be enough.

     

    If you want a new place to climb, but don't want to drive that far, just drive as far as SLC and spend the time in Little Cotton Wood and Big Cottonwood canyons. Little Cottonwood is the best with up to 700' cliffs of glacier smoothed granite. The few days you have will not be enough to touch it all, but if you have never been there it is far superior to the City. I may even be there myself on the 25th.

    real trad ratings

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    OK so this thread is getting pretty long, but I can't help throwing in my experience of the difference between trad and sport. Before I moved to the NW, there was NO difference in my mind between trad and sport. The distinction was never made. I was just looking through my climbing guides from the Salt Lake City and the City of Rocks where all the climbs I have ever done are coded with the type of style I used on the climb. I am a strong leader of everything up to 11c and have been known to lead up to 12b. Of the leads in my comfort zone (up to 11a or 11b), I noticed that there were equal numbers of flash leads (onsite lead with no falls) on trad and sport. It made no difference to me if it was bolted or if I needed gear. Many climbs were a combination of the two.

     

    I think the only difference between trad and sport is the difference we place on it in our minds. Our level of fear will determine if the climb is climbable or not. If you have never taken a hard fall on natual protection you may have a lower fear factor than someone who has taken many falls on natural protection. If you wonder if that stopper is placed good enough to take a fall you will have a lower fear factor than someone who knows without a doubt that the stopper is well placed and can take a fall. My own fear factor sometimes forces me to put in a couple good pieces before the crux of a climb or after a long run out.

     

    So once again, the only difference between trad and sport is fear. I agree with the orginal post in this thread. 10a is 10a whether it is trad or sport. It is the same with all the grades. The only difference is fear.

     

    OK, I'm done.

    Road Trip to City of Rocks

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    I lived in northern Utah for a good number of years and have done alot of climbing in the City. I too have been wanting to get back down there. I could also show you some absolutely beautiful climbing on the 700-800 ft cliffs of glasier smooth granite in Little Cottonwood Canyon, SLC. I can lead to mid 11s, so will be up for just about anything. Send me a PM with the details.

    Salt Lake City in February

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    I lived in that area for 25 years and climbed there for 15. There has only been 1, count them, 1 winter that I was able to get on the rock in February so don't hold your breath. If the sun is out at all, Little Cottonwood Canyon is the place to be for some fine slab climbing.

     

    Now ice is another story. The south side of the same canyon offers some fine ice climbing.

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