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Posts posted by kevinoregon

  1. Hello all.

    It has been some time since I have graced these halls. This is a big year for me. I am turning 50 next month and this year also marks half my life as a climber, so I have been planning the Big Five Oh Birthday Extravaganza since last year. I will be working only 6 days in July and climbing the rest of the time. First stop will be Touloume from 6/28 - 7/6. Fairview Dome is first on the list with Regular Route and Lucky Streaks and probably Great Pumpkin. Lots of others on the list with a full week of climbing.

    The second stop is the one I am having troubles with. I can travel after work on Tuesday, but need to be back early Saturday for my birthday party. I was planning on Donner Pass, but the flights do not fit my schedule so I am looking for options and partners for 3 solid days of climbing. Oh, and it needs to be granite and preferrably long. I will drive almost anywhere and will be departing out of pdx. A few destinations I could think of include Green Giant Buttress, Static Point and even though the climbs are short, City of Rock. I would be open to other options if you have a plan. Any one interested, just let me know.

    The 15th - 20th and 23rd - 27th will likely be in WA climbing with my son who has just moved back here from GA, but I may head back to the high sierras too. The destination for 29th - 3rd will be Squamish with Angel Crest on my list.



  2. I just did Blown Out and Blown Out Direct yesterday. It seems to me that Blown Out Direct has a couple moves that are technically harder than any of the moves on Blown Out. I didn't come across any moves on Blown Out I thought were 10a. Opinions?

  3. No climbing for me this last weekend. rain saturday, no one to climb with for the few hours of sunshine on sunday. so now I am left thinking about the weekend before's climbing. Nothing great, just a 10 pitch day at broughton. Edges and Ledges as a warmup. all 3 pitches of gandalf's grip. Don't really like counting that last pitch, but it does need to be all set up so it gets counted. Thats 4. Thai Stick and the first pitch of redeye as 1 pitch for #5. classic for 6. sheer energy and the second pitch of sheer stress for 7 & 8. I had never done the second pitch of sheer stress, so that was cool. no friction and shoot from the hip finished the day. it was time to go, so no time for hard body. I had been looking forward to it all day too.

  4. Um, sir. You state that you need to climb harder to learn to fall yet you haven't fallen for 12 yrs. until last year? Maybe you should read your post and take your own advice?


    Check again. I said I have not taken a long fall on gear in that long. Oh I have fallen though.