Z-Man
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Posts posted by Z-Man
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Lesson here. No helmet on leader.
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ahh, jared the simpler days of meeting folks online, have to pack a weapon to those kinds of rendezvous now.
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Before smartphones reading the stranger was my favorite part about riding the bus.
Who wants to fess up as the subject of this shot?
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Trip: Burgundy Col -
Date: 10/7/2012
Trip Report:
Snapped this photo of you on top of Paisano, hope you had fun.
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Great photos Val, great work pushing the mileage on this one. Logan was a pleasant surprise of a great climb, and waiting on Buckner gives me a good reason to go back to Goode again.
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sweet. Definitely looking warmer than I had hoped, maybe not this weekend, although NOAA forecast calls for it to only be 20 degrees cooler on the summit than it is in Bham, air must be some kind of stagnant.
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Anyone interested? Could catch Colin's show before the climb.
Send me a pm.
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Nice climb. I think in Selected Climbs Jim Nelson relates that Sean Courage soloed it in like 6 hours c2c.
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Sounds like you had to aid this summit Silas. No worries though, I'm guessing you'll be back for the free ascent.
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Walked off without the lid to my pack a hundred feet or so down the outlet stream from Crystal Lake the other day. Would love to hear from anyone who runs across it.
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Looking for a partner for an extended trip. Some ideas, weather permitting: Chimney Rock traverse, WR Eldo + TFT, NEB Goode + SER Buckner, others.
send me a pm.
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Looking to do the NER of Kyes, WF Sloan, NER Black, or whatever, send me a pm.
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Can you point out where on the EF this route is?
I've heard of some technical climbs on the South Face, and found some old climbing gear on it once, but never the EF.
North Face of East Cashmere has some potential. ~900 feet high.
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Partner found.
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Looking for a partner for Index traverse, NR Baker, WF Sloan, other stuff, lots of ideas, send me a pm.
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Colchuck isn't in the North Cascades either.
By what definition?
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Good stuff is good stuff, no matter the elevation. I was able to have good 2000' backcountry runs 3 hours door to door from where I was living in downtown anchorage on Flattop, P2, and P3. While I am told that the snow in the Anchorage front range was unusually abundant and stable this late winter, it was nonetheless nearly perfect and soft virtually every time I went out for almost 2 months. As long as I didn't mind missing sleep, with the late daylight hours in that crazy timezone I could still get out once a week after work for the goods. While I enjoy running Tiger when I'm living in Seattle, I thought this was more fun.
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I spoke too soon, Mother's Day indeed! Nice dress.
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That's the best part, school provided for my travel to these places and places to live. In return I just have to give them 20 grand a year and 70-80 hours a week of my time. I get one day off most weeks and I put it to use.
I knew you'd appreciate the new sticks Ryan. Also enjoyed you bringing some of that philosophy out again, http://www.skisickness.com/post/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=342&sid=4b62e691ee2ec0765cc8e02c64cebe8a , really liked this post.
Phew, I was worried you weren't going to slow down at all V. I was envisioning you with a BCA airbag strapped to your front still sending. I'll be working mostly back at the UW starting in July, will still have that 1 day a week...
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Trip: Western wanderings -
Date: 5/12/2012
Trip Report:
I've spent the last year traveling across the Western U.S. for school and have had a chance to explore some great mountains while I did it. The trips started last Summer with a trip to California.
On the previously unknown to me NWF of W Shepherd's Crest. My buddy Dr. J likes to find the "overlooked" climbs and then suggest we go do them. The solidity of the routes found by this method has varied dramatically, but it has always led to fun adventures. Shepherd's Crest was good by every measure.
A little more mainstream, the South Face of Charlotte Dome.
Ultra mainstream on Cathedral Peak, the good Dr. was crying a little bit on the inside to have to resort to something so close to the road, but we took a line well away from the other 20 or so parties and he smiled the whole way up.
Granite Peak, MT. Great peakbagging trip in what looks like the premier mountains for alpine climbing in Montana.
Middle Teton from the top of the Enclosure. Another peakbagging trip in an awesome alpine setting.
Managed to run up Hood a few times as well, the Old Chute on Veteran's Day.
Illumination Saddle from the Reid Headwall later in the Winter.
Ending up spending a few weekends in Bozeman hanging out with old friends and making new ones.
Made it out to Cody for more ice. Two ice trips out that way and still lots on the list.
Anchorage was a spectacular place for climbing and skiing.
the NWF of O'Malley
Eklutna Canyon
Indianhead Peak
Turnagain Pass
Flattop
Idaho's been good too, great spring skiing above 10000' in the Sawtooths and fun climbing in the Lost River Range.
Williams Peak
Mount Cramer
Peak 10129
White Line Couloir on Peak 11308
NF of Borah
So much to do so much to see.
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I'll be headed to Bozeman from Spokane the next two weekends, send me a pm if you're interested in coming along. I have comfortable lodging available at no charge in both Spokane and Bozeman.
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accident at Vantage?
in Climber's Board
Posted · Edited by Z-Man
Good memory Nick, I expect you of all people would be in favor of wearing a helmet, even at the crags in a seemingly less serious environment.
No offense meant to anybody. I am very familiar with the effects of all kinds of altering substances and from a safety standpoint wouldn't recommend that people climb while using any of them. Jon's comment is well taken and I'll edit the specific reference out.
Climber definitely not wearing a helmet. I didn't see him place the gear. The stuff still in the crack looked good. He would have been fine if the top piece had held or if the piece below that had stayed attached to the rope. If I knew what was up with the gear, or had ever been on the climb, I may have offered different points, but I don't and haven't so I won't.
I appreciated everyone's professionalism, selflessness, and help on scene, made everything much easier.
I also hope he's doing well.