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Tyler

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Posts posted by Tyler

  1. I have quite a collection of Climbing and Rock and Ice magazines going back to 1997. If you want them, they're yours (will trade for homemade baked goods or beer). You will need to arrange to pick them up from me in Eugene. Otherwise, they're going into the yard sale this Saturday. . .

     

    Email Tyler*at*wipfandstock.com

  2. Yeah, she is a wonderful ride. I will miss taking her up some of the local hills around Eugene. I test rode a number of road bikes before I settled on her. However, my neck problems and headaches continued to get worse and worse. PT didn't help, so I'm going to have to switch to a recumbent-probably a Bacchetta Giro 26.

  3. Books for sale – Will ship Media Mail for $1.50 extra

    Will consider trade for back issues of Alpinist Magazine - Need Issues 0-4, 6, 7, and 14. f you are interested, email me directly at Tyler (at) wipfandstock (dot) com.

     

    Lois, Jennifer – Heroic Efforts: The Emotional Culture of Search and Rescue Volunteers, Softcover - $6

     

    (SOLD) Van Tilburs – Backcountry Ski Oregon, Softcover,

     

    May, W. G. Mountain Search and Rescue, Softcover, $4

     

    (ALL ISSUES SOLD) Accidents in North American Mountaineering Issues 1995 and 1997-2004, $3 each

     

    O’Connell – Beyond Risk: Conversations with Climbers, Softcover $4

     

    (SOLD) Hill, Lynn – Climbing Free: My Life in the Vertical World, Hardcover

     

    Child, Greg – Postcards from the Ledge, Hardcover, $5

     

    (SOLD) Potterfield, Peter – In the Zone: Epic Survival Stories from the Mountaineering World, Softcover, $4

  4. I climbed up there last winter. Lots of fun to be had! Don't know if I can get away to make it up there this winter...

     

    Yeah, definitely check with NC Mountain Guides. I would email them: ncinfo@ncmountainguides.com

     

    Temperature is definitely looking favorable:

    Washington Pass Telemetry

     

    When I was up there in February we spotted some formations around Rainy Lake and a really fat formation down in the Willow Creek (???) draingage. NC Mountain Guides or another local should have much better info.

  5. Tyler obviously did not get out much climbing in Eugene, but there is lots of climbing very very close to Eugene. It is all on private property, and at least a couple of the craigs can be seen from major roads, but if you want to find them you will have to figure it out.

     

    Aw yes, all the crags on private property... I used to climb A LOT more than I do now, but I prefer to go to Flagstone, the columns, or Smith. I was never cool enough and never knew the right people to get to visit the areas on private property.

     

    If you ever want details on any of these crags, let one of us know. There's some information on this website.

     

    Enjoy!

     

    Tyler

  6. I've only passed through Medford, so I cannot speak for it.

     

    I have lived in Eugene for six and a half years now. I love it; although, it does have its share of drawbacks.

     

    1) Cost of living is high - Housing prices and rent are especially inflated downtown and around campus.

    2) The weather - This year's fall and winter were mild, but it's not always that way. The rain can begin in September and last until May. There are nice breaks in between though.

    3) Job Market - Depending on what you do, the market can be tight. Plus, many employers can be stingy about what they pay. Although the job market is probably better in Eugene than Medford.

    4) Ethnic diversity - there isn't a lot of ethnic diversity here. However, there is a lot of cultural diversity among caucasians. It's a nice, hip, somewhat progressive town.

     

    Benefits

    1) Traffic - There is traffic here, but it is NOTHING like it is in other areas. Eugeneans are lucky (and some don't know it).

    2) Climbing - There is climbing surrounding Eugene, but you're going to have to drive there. Flagstone is about an 1.5 hrs away, Smith 2.5 hrs away, the Callahans in Roseburg are about 2hrs plus, then there are the "secret" trad areas around Westfir and Oakridge - about an hr away. Hood is about 3 hours away, North Cascades are 10 hours away, etc. etc.

     

    However, we do have "The Columns" that are just downtown at Skinner Butte!!!

     

    3) Food and Beer - There are some great restaurants in this town, and there are some great microbrews. Check out the McMenamins on High Street. There are some great coffeehouses too - check out Theo's at the Strand.

    4) People - Eugene is a pretty cool hip little place, and there are a lot of interesting people here.

    5) Bike friendly - there is an extensive network of bike trails and bike lanes are everywhere.

    6) There's plenty of whitewater - if you're into that.

    7) Great rivers and lakes for kayak touring if you're into that. Plus there is great flyfishing here.

    8) Skiing and snowboarding - Hoodo and Willamette Pass are 1.5 hrs away, and Mt. Bachelor is 3 hrs away (my favorite).

    9) We have an EXCELLENT gear shop in town, (Backcountry Gear), but you'll have to go to PDX or Seattle for a better selection of mountaineering boots or climbing shoes.

    10) The Coast is about an hour away, PDX is about 2 hrs away, Seattle is 5 hrs away, and San Fran is about 8 hrs away.

     

    Overall Eugene is the perfect size. It's a great place to live. Sure, it's not as cool as Bishop or Mazama, but there's plenty to do and climbing is within a reasonable drive.

     

    If you decide to move here, let me know, and I'll be glad to fill you in with more details on Eugene.

  7. Here in PDX you can get a Chinese Spyderco knock-off w/ serrated blade for $2-3 at Next Adventure. Tie a cord on it, throw it on a BD accessory wiregate (the metal one).

     

    Good advice - get a reliable but less expensive serrated edge knife to hang on the harness. Serrated edge knives cut through cordage much quicker (even when dull). Though, I keep my my very dear Benchmade rescue in my pocket so as not to lose it...

  8. Yeah, it's a great idea, but the stand doesn't work too well with MSR canisters. It's way too loosey goosey, and having no stand works better. There's just way too much play, and the stove can tip if you're not careful. Dru - does the stand fit snug with Primus canisters???

     

    FYI, I bought mine at REI for like $9 - my MSR stove didn't come with one...

  9. Primus Canister Stove Footrest/stand - $5 including shipping.

     

    From the website:

    Increases stability for stoves that screw directly onto the gas canister, especially when using large pans or cooking on uneven surfaces. The foot rest attaches to the base of the gas canister (also fits other brand canisters).

     

    Weight:

    22 g

    0.8 oz.

    Dimensions:

    140 x 27 x 37 mm

    5.5? x 1.1? x 1.5

     

    721170.gif

  10. There is Tumalo State Park outside of Bend on Hwy 20.

     

    Fore USFS campgrounds, visit:

    http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/centraloregon/recreation/campgrounds/map-bendredmond.shtml

     

    and

     

    http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/centraloregon/recreation/campgrounds/camp-name.shtml

     

    If you had to, you could just pitch your tent somewhere in the Deschutes National Forest...

     

    There's also the Bend Youth Hostel, and I hear the new McMenamins downtown has some hostel style accomodations.

  11. Despite all the debate it is a fun place to climb

     

    You are totally right! Flagstone is wonderful and a special place to me and many others (which is why some people are so concerned about issues of overbolting, etc). But keep it in perspective. Sure, it probably wasn't the wisest place to put a route in, and I probably would have advised the bolter not to put it in there. But this issue pales in comaprison to other issues. What always bothered me the most were the views of old clearcuts, the past "rumors" of chipped routes, and the sound of gunfire during hunting season. Well, Flagstone is in a national forest afterall. Even then, there are much bigger things in the world to be concerned about!

     

    Enjoy!

     

    Tyler

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