Hummerchine

I was involved in placing the rap station at the top of Brass Balls, and I am proud of our fine workmanship and contribution to the climbing community. I am surprised to hear of those who dislike it; until now I have heard nothing but very positive feedback. After 35 years of extensive climbing I've only placed a handful of bolts; a rappel station at the top of BB not only seemed like a no-brainer, but will likely save someone's life at some point. My close friend who helped should be dead right now from pulling off a loose block on the dangerous, loose, poorly protected choss above BB. Headfirst fall on to a ledge with no pro, the rope miraculously catching on a rock protrusion nearly cutting through...how again did he survive? I apologize to the few; feel free to not use it. The overwhelming majority are gonna LOVE this new rap station! Tom Michael

Darryl, I like the way you state that seeing the hanger in real life is even more shocking than the photos, because it's so true. The thing is literally falling apart in your hand, I had to be careful handling it. Plus, it's such a sandbag, because from the external it looks fine. And yes, the lower bolt that finally held had "Kong-Bonatti" stamped on it, I'm 99% certain it's the same hanger. I'll go ahead an also mention that Dick Cilley and I climbed Dark Crystal yesterday, there is a fixed rope tied through the chains after pitch 3. We decided to rap it, until I came to a massive core shot that scared the crap out of me when I saw my BRD halfway into it. I swung in and put in some pro, we switched to our rope. Nice adrenalin rush! So anyway, whoever that belongs to I recommend you NOT jumar up it!

Here is Matt's description, which is right on: Simply amazing. The bolt felt like layers of paper that had been glued together. It was some advanced state of corrosion that seemed to start internally and work its way out. I can only assume the corrosion was influenced by the bolt. It literally was pealing apart like string cheese. (no offense intended to string cheese) This thing is way more impressive/freaky in person, photos do not do it justice. It's literally falling apart in my hands; packed it up real careful and sent it to Darryl. What's the scariest is that it looks pretty good externally, the inside is completely shot. It's got to be some sort of coated carbon steel. And hey, did not mean to sound negative in any way pointing out that you seemed freaked out...that would have completely blown my mind!

Dear Darryl (and all) Matt and I went and climbed Lovin' Arms yesterday late afternoon (started route at 4:00PM, took us 3.5 hours base to base...awesome weather, route, partner. and experience). So we arrive to the base to meet two climbers who have just had a near-death experience on a route left of there; I just tried to figure out which one from your guide, but I'm sorta confused. It starts pretty quick on the area immediately above the ledge that Lovin' Arms starts on; it goes over a small "roof" that's maybe 8 feet wide, and stick out maybe 5 inches. Anyway, the guy claimed to have fallen and broken TWO bolt hangers, nearly decking and death. I pointed out that the best part of a near-death experience was the "near" part. He looked to have cut his elbow pretty bad, but fine otherwise. Both he and his partner were pretty freaked out, had been looking for the hangers with no success. He had lowered off the bolt that finally caught him, and a nut he placed below it. On the rap off of Lovin' Arms Matt and I checked it out, and took his draw, runner, and nut. The draw was on an old 3/8 inch bolt that was rusted, but with a hanger that looked fine labeled "Kong-Bonatti". I noticed a broken bolt section on the ledge I passed below, carefully brought it home. It looks fine externally, the internal looks like rusted cardboard. I'm guessing some sort of old carbon steel hanger coated with zinc or something. Here is a link to photos, yow! We only saw one broken bolt, but had to pendo over and it was getting dark, so who knows...he may have been confused. Feel free to post on your website or whereever... http://public.me.com/hummerchine Btw, this was definitely not an SMC hanger; pretty sure it was another Kong-Bonatti by the shape of it. hummerchine

I haved lived in Wenatchee since moving back in 1987, originally grew up here, climber for over 25 years. I go up to Midnight Rock often, good workout is to laps on ROTC solo-toproping, then give Steven's Pass Motel a shot (I'm about 50% successful on that one). It is obvious that the lower bolt is in the wrong place, I have always been curious how it got there. Best guess is that it is an aid bolt, although it seems that it would be hard to aid, unless off a hook. Which may have just answered that question! By this thread it appears that noone knows who placed those bolts. For years there was a sling on this bolt, I'm sure that's how it was lead free. The sling has been gone for many years, the bolts are old and shitty. I have been planning on replacing them for years, too lazy to drag the drill up there. My plan was to replace the upper bolt, move the lower to where it can be clipped below the roof. However, I have done little bolting, and I cannot decide the perfect spot to move it to. I would not want it to be in the way of any of the holds, and since it now is clearly in the wrong place, I would not want to botch the decision. My opinion is that the opening moves over the roof are hard 5.11 on thin loose holds, with a really bad fall. I'd give it an "R" in it's current state. Also, the lower bolt cannot even be clipped until you have climbed by it, unless you want to clip in the middle of the 5.11+ section. By the first stance you can clip the next bolt. I agree, bolts should not be added to a route, but when a bolt is clearly in the wrong place, why leave it that way forever? Ah, but I can see that simply stick clipping the lower bolt in it's current position would work fine. So I'll wait and let somebody else decide the best thing to do, at a bare minimum those bolts need replaced! By the way, I just met Jens at Little Si, he led the route as is with no stick clipping. Frigging bold and impressive! Like I said above, "R"! ---Tom Michael

I have experimented a LOT with solo top-rope systems, my current favorite setup uses the Ushba unit clipped to my belay loop with a DMM Belay-Master carabiner, on a Stratos rope. I back it up with a Petzl Mini-Traxion on a foot-long runner girth-hitched to my harness, so it rides on the rope about a foot below the Ushba ascender (also clipped in with a Belay-Master). I even modified the Mini-Traxion so the cam cannot be locked open (easy mod with a Dremel, just cut the notch of on the outer plate). Weight the rope a few feet off the ground with a water bottle and the extra rope coiled up. Mega bomber, rides smooth, easy to set up, no chest harness, backed up with another type and brand of ascender. I would strongly recommend against using only one ascender, weird shit happens; if it does you die. Have fun!

The new Petzl harnesses RULE. Brilliant design, way comfortable, best gear loops on the market, and by far the best buckle on the market. Not only is the buckle super easy to use, but since you never fully unbuckle it the harness is faster to put on and the risk of not fully fastening the buckle is completely eliminated. People have died by not buckling thier harness correctly, strikes me as a great idea to design a harness where this cannot happen. I have the blue one, which I love, the maroon one is supposed to be even more comfy, but wieghs more. Enjoy!

Hiya, I've climbed a ton over the last 25 years, and am a bit of a gear fanatic. I've tried just about every belay device on the market, thought I'd give my opinion on this forum. The Reverso is pretty nice, but does not have enough friction for my taste and wears out fast. If you are way in to the belay-from-the-anchor-autolock feature, it would be a good way to go. Personally, I feel safer with more friction, my current favorite device is the BRD from Metolius. More friction that most, but still runs smooth. It will also last longer than any other device that I have seen. If anything, it might be a bit too burly, could have been made a touch lighter. I bought a B52 this summer because it is lighter, looks really cool, and has the anchor-autobelay feature. Unfortunately, I hated it, the design is flawed. It looks like it cams on to the rope like the Metolius unit, but it has way less friction, the friction modulates poorly, and the device has a hump on it that rides on the locking carabiner wierd and wants to pop over it. Anybody wants one I'll sell mine real cheap, I only used it one day climbing (heh). Hope this info helps!