Hummerchine

One more thing I should have mentioned (and I appreciate everyone's input)...I've seen too many times where groups of climbers don't even know when they are going to be done with a climb so hog it by leaving their rope hanging there, waiting for someone to retrieve their gear left at the top...

You see one of these? Clip it and lower off! That's the whole point of it being there! Me and my friends are constantly shocked to see climbers dicking around placing their own quickdraws and cordelettes...oftentimes leaving it up to an inexperienced second to figure out how to re-rig this mess. Once the steel carabiner wears out someday climbers like me will replace it with a new one...just like chains... Quicker (key in crowded climbing areas), easier, better (safer).

The guy you mention is 100% wrong. Tie in like the manufacturer of the harness says...through both the waistband and the leg loops.

Please explain what you mean by using a quicklink as a solo-belay device. Isn't a quicklink a removable chain link? I don't get at all how that can be used for solo-belay. Thank you!

powderhound, Petzl is very clear about not using a Tibloc for this purpose and I completely agree with them. DrApnea, you mention a non-toothed device...which what you describe is...but you are still being routinely caught by a Micro-Traxion, which has teeth...and which personally I don't think is an issue. Tying knots in the rope when climbing anything hard is easier said than done...I strongly recommend another Micro-Trax!

Right on!

Haha! NICE! You are serious, aren't you? I mean, if you had one of these and wanted to work boulder problems...well, why not? Searching around the web I've found 'em up to 100 feet and over $1000. Also VERY heavy, some over 20 pounds. So like 80 times the weight of a Micro-Traxion, and VERY limited in what you can actually use it for. But hey...what the heck? I'm SERIOUSLY considering buying an ASAP, even though I know it's not the best all-around solo-belay device. But what is? Might be cool in my awesome home climbing gym...I ran into a post by Mark Hudon where he was using one to do up and down laps at a gym on routes he really didn't expect to fall on.

Brian politely pointed out to me in a private message that I had mis-interpreted the video he posted. After watching it more closely I realize that he is absolutely correct! The falls on that video were set up to be much longer than the actual slippage of the ASAP. In fact, the slippage ranged from 9 to 30cm...far less than the 8 feet I mentioned. Sorry for my error Brian! This did in fact get me much more interested in the ASAP, along with the ASAP Lock. Petzl has tons of info on their website. The gear-slut in me wants to buy them both just to play with them! That'd be about $500 just for some fun... Those things do look wicked cool...makes me wish I worked on skyscrapers! Yes, they would work for solo-toproping. Best I can tell though,from the YouTube videos I watched, and all of the stuff on Petzl's website, I still don't think they are the device(s) of choice. For starters, they are both at least double the cost of a Micro-Traxion. The ASAP is triple the weight, the ASAP Lock five times. They are meant to be used as a primary safety device for industrial situations where you want to be able to move up and down next to a rope, and realistically where you hopefully never fall. Since I fall all the time solo-toproping, I want minimal extension in the device AND I want two separate devices. But that's just me... Biggest issue I see with the ASAP and ASAP lock is near the ground or a ledge. Petzl even has an entire page warning of this issue: http://www.petzl.com/en/Professional/ASAP-usage-when-approaching-an-obstacle-or-the-ground?ProductName=ASAP-LOCK&Familly=Mobile-fall-arrest-device&l=US#.VRhGzVzQRvI It's really hard to say, without owning and playing with these devices, how well they can be pre-loaded to deal with not hitting the ground. The ASAP Lock looks better suited for this purpose, but it also appears to require a built-in shock-absorbing lanyard that creates an extension all it's own. There are certainly situations out climbing where I rig in a way where if I fall it's only an inch or two...I just don't see that this can be done with the ASAP or ASAP Lock. I also don't know if they "stick" to the rope after a fall like the Mini-Traxion does. I thought this was interesting: The ASAP B71 and ASAP B71 AAA models have no locking function. It is possible to deliberately lock them by a quick downward pull, to keep them in a higher position. Apart from cases where user safety is at stake, this deliberate locking is not recommended, as repeated deliberate impacts can accelerate wear of the ASAP, and a simple involuntary movement can unlock it without the user's knowledge. This implies that the ASAP will wear out if a bunch of falls are taken? I also find it telling that Petzl never even mentions these units on their pages of solo-toproping info. Even they don't find it to be the device of choice. This is simply my opinion. Dead serious, those things do look insanely cool for their intended function. In fact, I want them! But not enough to spend $500. But I can certainly see how some people, especially if they already owned one for work purposes, could enjoy using them for solo-toproping!

I'm really liking that 2:1 haul system idea...I'm gonna try that with one of my Micros after tying into the rope before disengaging it.

Hey John (telemarker): Really great description and solution...I like it! What I DON'T like is using one Mini (as I've told you at least 100 times). Since you have the Basic with you...why not use it as a backup for the Mini while climbing?

I already mentioned it too Brian...but as cool as the ASAP is, it ain't the device to buy for solo-TR! It costs twice as much as a Micro-Traxion, weighs 4 times more, is bulkier, but the true deal-breaker is the broken bones if you fall near the ground or a ledge! That video shows it taking 8 feet to catch you...with rope stretch it's gonna be more. No way to pre-load it near such obstacles... Definitely the device of choice for professional skyscraper work. But even if I already owned one I'd buy two Micros for solo-TRing...

To those asking how to escape the system, that's when things turn from super simple to rather complicated...like you need to know gear and how to use it! I don't have this happen very often, but once in a while while solo-toproping I'll fall on a section numerous times and be unable to do it. Worst case scenario, which I just had happen last week, you fall on on overhanging section and can't even get back on the rock. So now you have four choices: 1) Hang there until you die or somebody finds you. 2) Use your sell phone to call a rescue (only works if you have a cell phone with you and have reception). 3) Rappel (I never do that...it's always a move or two, better to aid that section and continue upwards). 4) Ascend. The simplest and easiest solution is to have two jumars and two ascenders with you, just jug the rope. Personally, I NEVER do that since I don't want to carry that extra gear. Starting out solo-TR though? Not a bad idea... Heck, you are hanging on two ascenders of sorts...even though they are not currently rigged for ascending, you can jury rig a way. Good idea to at least have a couple of slings for makeshift etriers. I've even used quickdraws in this fashion...or knots in the rope with large bights. Of course you can also rig to rap using knots and/or prussiks...there are countless ways to retrieve yourself, pretty much all involve some ingenuity and technical gear knowledge/experience. Big wall techniques are quite helpful. It's ironic, a part of me wants to recommend solo-toproping to the masses since it can be so quick, easy, safe, and convenient with a minimal amount of gear. This discussion is the crux of it though...without extensive knowledge/ex[erience you can still get yourself in all kinds of trouble, including death. So ya...don't try this at home.

Huh...interesting. For what you describe (Rad) I can see your point. Even though I've done massive amounts of solo-toproping, including routes over my head that in my mind I'm "working"...I have never worked on route "sections" like that. I'm thinking I should! For what you describe, a Mini-Traxion might actually work better...you CAN fully lock the cam out on those, and I don't think they will click back in on their own. Don't you have to manually feed the Cinch? If I'm correct, how does that allow you to work desperate sections? And as I sit here babbling and thinking about it, if your primary device is a Cinch you could always lock it off (hang on it), remove the Micro, rap, then reattach...using backup knots below you if you want to be really safe. You aren't going to be "dangling in space" as much as you are going to be locked off on a Cinch. Sounds awfully similar to what I have done thousands of times with two Micros rather than just one. You aren't going to drop it...and if you do, a small price to pay for the added security/safety of redundancy to prevent death. The best insurance is insurance you pay for yet never use...

Hey Rad, I always remove my Micros before rapping down again so I didn't know about the cam clicking thing. I just checked my unmodified Micro, and sure enough it doesn't take much pressure to reengage the cam. Maybe it's Petzl's way of helping to ensure that the cam isn't locked out. I recommend never locking the cam out...I did that way back in the day with Minis and caught myself more than once climbing with a cam locked out. It takes me maybe 30 seconds to remove both Micros from the rope, maybe another 30 to put 'em back on.

Petzl has lots of good stuff on their website...read all of it! http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/Appendix-2--Detail-of-installation-on-two-ropes-with-two-ascenders?ActivityName=Multi-pitch-climbing&l=INT#.VQ-y-xhHaK0