catbirdseat
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Posts posted by catbirdseat
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I'd rather not wait until they bind. I clean my cams on that rare day each year in the off-season when I am not doing anything. Last time I did it, I use a little ultrasonic bath with some dishwashing detergent and warm water. It worked great.
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Journalist
in Spray
One can make the case that the only way politicians can move the populace these days is by resorting to demagoguery. Bush is the prime example that Gore learned from in defeat.
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Journalist
in Spray
Gore is not a scientist. He is a politician. His job as he sees it is to motivate people to make changes. Do you think you should hold him to the same standards you would a scientist?
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Damper is the Correct answer. So which Echo Rock route are we talking about? Stick to What or Second Thoughts?DamperHoly shit, I bled down that crack. First trip to JTree, been climbing like 3 months, no tekneek, thrashed my way up bleeding from both fists.
Camped in the site on the back side of that formation for 3 months, good times.
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Probably nine times out of ten you'll get away without the permit, but when they get you it's $60. The permits are good until March 31. Wait until April to get one then it will be good for a year.
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The Woolsey's?
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I will translate for you Kev. "He would have had to".
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I saw on the King 5 TV news a story about the theft of a Tibetan Prayer Wheel in Seattle. No doubt some meth head figures he can sell it to a scrap metal dealer, as it is made of bronze.
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Top roped it last weekend. It's a good one. There are lots of finger cracks at Middle East Wall.Lots of good stuff on mid east wall and no crowds. Jihad is a personal fav.
Got the #4 Big Bro. Hopefully I can borrow the #6. Actually, to tell the truth, I have yet to even top rope it. I hear it's hard.Blue Autumn good - #6 Camalot for the crux and a #4 Big Bro or Valley cam for the top. No Anchor though which is a mild pain - but worth the trouble.
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Dude, you can do whatever you like on lead, but when it comes to RATING a climb, it must be based on what features a reasonable person of average stature would use.
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In my book, if you can reach the crack you are using to protect the climb, the feature is "in".
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So why is it that falling out of the top results in injury? Is it because it steepens combined with pro pulling out or no pro?
I remember getting in a Green Alien and a Blue Alien right before the pod. They nested in there pretty securely, so that they most likely would have held a fall, at that low fall factor.
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Mr. Lucky lost its liquor license last year for 180 days because they couldn't control the people who were its customers. If you can show that there has been as many lawless acts as at Mr. Lucky's you stand a chance of shutting them down too.
Step one is to collect data on police calls and arrests over the past two years. Step two is to start writing the newspapers to get public opinion on your side.
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Yoder has Air Guitar down as a 5.10a. I would agree that it is easy for the rating. George and Martha is way harder for the same grade. Steel Grille is harder even though Yoder gives it a 5.9.
Someone asked about Disaster Factor, 5.8. Both MCash and I think it's pretty stiff for the rating.
Yoder has Sensemilla down as 5.10c. I was able to lead it and had never led at that level before. On the other hand stemming is something I do well. I've heard others say it's more like 5.10b.
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Jens, I couldn't disagree with you more. I enjoy both the trad lines as well as ths sport lines. I think the sport climbs that are most popular are not the best ones. People like the arete routes just because they are like climbing in the gym. The best routes are, as you say, on the entableture, down at such places as Millennium Wall, M&M Wall, etc.Just to weigh in with my two cents.Vantage is much better than it used to be with all the new lines.
I like to crack climb but in my opinion, almost all the trad lines at Vantage suck REALLY bad. The joy is the artistry of face climing movement over the entablature. Leave the cams at home and bring draws.
In college as a vantage local at CWU in the early 90's we'd go to Vantage on a spring Saturday and would occasionally be the only car. We'd done almost every single established route but these days, their are a ton of lines and projects.
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The Nepalese government ought to charge him triple fees. At least some good would come out of his death. They could build some schools or hospitals.
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Top rope, lead or boulder. PM by 7 pm if you are interested.
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I am pretty sure my pulse rate won't go as high as 178.
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This weekend I saw not one, but two fellows standing around the Feathers at Vantage wearing heavy mountaineering boots and gaitors. Sadly, the ensemble was not completed by shorts over polypro, but we can't have everything.
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No normal person talks about their sex life on the Internet.yeah b/c no one talks about sex or their sex life on the internetBTW, whatever happened to Bobby Peru?
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No it is a chastity belt.
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I finally led Disaster Factor. I placed a Camalot 4.5 below the first chockstone, then slung that, and pulled the Camalot, I placed a #4 Bigbro about halfway between chockstones. Finally, I chickened out and placed a big nut in the crack to the right before squeezing into the crack below the big second chockstone and hauling up onto it, what I thought was the hardest move. I didn't bother to sling it because once on top of if you have a nice little crack that takes all sorts of nuts. I placed the big camalot up under the leaning slab to protect the exit move. I think this route can be led with no big gear at all if you are willing to use that crack to the right.Catbird, Disaster factor takes a couple of long slings (for the chockstones) then smaller than tips to finger size above there. It's great fun too, if yer into that sort of thing. Cheers. -
My daughter is addicted to Nutella. There is always a brown smudge on the cutting board.
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That would be me. That was a fun group you had. All good people.
thurs 15-17th cragging
in Climbing Partners
Posted
Roboboy and I are heading over to Tumwater Canyon tomorrow morning. We expect to hit the Clem's Holler area and perhaps Retardant Rock. Maybe see you out there.