catbirdseat
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Posts posted by catbirdseat
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As Dwayner would say, "it's all because of the bolts". If you bolt it, they will come.
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Hey Muffy, long time. I have found that Omega-3 supplementation helps me a lot with inflammation. The Vitamin D suggestion is a good one. People tend not to get enough sunshine in the PNW. I read the other day that niacin supplements can help Raynaud's Syndrome. Try the inositol hexaniconiate. It doesn't cause flushing like regular niacin. If you can find it you might try a new supplement called nicotinamide riboside.
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Has anyone seen the slide on Jumbo Mountain from about ten years ago? It was big and cut the road up Squire Creek. I wonder in what ways this is similar or different to that one.
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Still getting into shit after all these years. Same old Ivan.
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Killing people from China is a rather bad move. The Pak government is trying to encourage Chinese investment at the moment.
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Order from McMaster-Carr a cable cutter, a crimper, a box of copper 3/64" Nicropress fittings and ten feet of 3/64" galvanized 7x7 wire. The galvanized is less brittle than the SS most cams come with and will last longer. You'll be set for years.
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People have a very distorted sense of risk. We have much less fear of things we feel we have control over as opposed to things we don't have control over, like terrorists. Many people are killed by their own guns and their own cars, but they don't fear these things. We feel we have "control" over them when the reality is we have control only some of the time.People worry about terrorism. Between food industry, gun manufacturers and pharmaceutical corporations, you have million more chances being killed by them, rather then by a terrorists. -
You mentioned hanging from a bolt. I don't remember any "good" bolts when I last climbed that route. There were several nasty, rusty spinners.
Got any additional comments about the walk down to Pearly Gates? Is it brushy?
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The video wasn't targeted towards climbers. That's the only reason it seems lame to you, Mike.
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I have wondered about the use of knots in the rope to slow the rate of falling. If you have to prussik out, how do you deal with the knots? You'd have to take the prussiks off and retie then around each knot.
If hauling with a z-pulley, they would make the job more difficult. In the video in which Barter fell in, he mentions that his buddies pulled him out as he bridged using his feet and axe. On a team of 4, I imagine that one could put one guy to work as a belayer using the hip belay while the other two heaved. The knots would not be a problem with a hip belay.
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His posts have been few, but he has probably contributed more useful tips on climbing safety than most members.54 posts since 2007, there's a dedicated member of the on-line community. -
Best of luck, Dane and the will to persevere.
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We saw numerous bees in places on Sunshine Wall too. Watch out if you are allergic to stings.
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I remember Colin saying or writing something about rapping on 5.5 mm cord on Nanga Parbat, or somesuch. We need to get him to weigh in. The canyoneers are really the experts when it comes to raping on a a single strand. For some reason they prefer it. I think it is mainly because they like figure eights.
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I thought this movie was quite amusing and although not a climbing movie, belongs right up there with Vertical Limit for quality or lack thereof.
There was a scene in which they had just been trapped in a cavern by a rockslide. The slide was caused by lightning of all things.
There were several choices of ways to go. They pick one a random. Coming to a seemingly bottomless pit, one would consider backtracking and trying some of the other routes, but no, they decide they need to DECEND into said bottomless pit.
It just so happens that the heroine has a rope in her pack long enough for the 200ft descent. She starts lowering the man and soon the boy is being lowered at the same time. Is she lowering both at the same time? Now she is rappelling between them. Who is lowering the two others? Where did she get four 200 foot ropes? Nevermind.
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Dragon Cams, I'd reckon, but they are expensive.
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Get over your aversion to pharmaceuticals and take the Diamox (acetazolamide). It works.
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Double Dip
in Spray
Thanks Obama? The economists have been saying for a long time that cutting spending is the wrong thing to do right now. The Tea Baggers are having then wet dream right now. Wall street now realizes that it's for real, hence the freefall.
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We were planning on going to Cloud Canyon in September. I'd read in a guide book that the place feels haunted. Did you get that feeling you were being watched while you were there?
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Be carefull. I knew a young fellow who moved to Texas to work on the wind machines and a tower fell on him and killed him.
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I still reign as one of the best thread killers.
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I have a friend at the gym who is an amputee and new climber He has a prosthetic lower left leg. He told me that he works a shop building custom prostheses, so he can make anything he likes. Do you know anyone who has designs for climbing and/or tips and tricks for climbing harder with prosthetic limbs?
He out climbs me on bouldering routes where his arm strength comes into play but I can do better on slabs. I don't really know what to tell him on slab climbing.
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I've been gone three years now, and it's still the same players and still the same shit. I'd join you but unfortunately they make me work at my current job. You don't know how lucky you got it.
[TR] Mount Whitney - East Buttress 9/7/2016
in California
Posted
Nice pictures. Next time, eschew the comfortable hotel in Lone Pine and camp in squalor at Whitney Portal. It makes all the difference in the world for acclimation.