wscottf
-
Posts
45 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by wscottf
-
-
I remember hearing about a group that attempted all of Washington's volcanoes in 5 days. Does anyone know if this has actually been done?
-
I did this route a few years ago and we didn't bring a hammer or any pitons. Here's our gear list:
1 set HB brass offsets
2 sets stoppers (3-4 of the smaller sizes)
2 sets cams (mix of BD and Metolious)
1 cam hook
1 BD talon
1 cliff hanger
Maybe some hexes but I can't remember
The "upside down sideways camhook" I actually did that toward the top of the second pitch. Scared the hell out of me.
We got to M&M ledge around midnight on that trip, taking a 25 foot whipper 5 feet from the ledge.
-
I'm short on time (just had a kid) and really want to get Shuksan NF done. Does anyone have an idea if it's doable in a day? Both my partner and I are strong, fast climbers, but neither of us have done the route (partner has done Fisher Chimneys, so we've got the descent covered).
Any thoughts or beta are welcome.
Thanks!
-
Edit:
stay in idaho and lets go send Elephant Perch
Good idea, but the plane tickets are already paid for... Oh well, maybe next time
-
You should blaze up to the Sawtooths and climb the Elephants Perch. I think it's 7 pitches of 5.7-5.9, and some kick ass scenery to boot. It's about a 3.5 hour drive from Boise to get to Redfish lake.
-
Hey all, I need some help in planning a climbing trip to the Cascades. I've lived in Seattle all my life, but recently moved to Ketchum, Idaho. Well, I'll be back in town the first weekend of June and want to climb something.
Do you think the following trip would be possible to do in two-three days:
Friday night - hike into Dragontail Peak
Saturday morning - Climb Dragontail via the fin (carrying overnight gear)
Saturday afternoon - hike over to Prussik Peak
Sunday morning - climb Prussik SF
Sunday afternoon - hike out (and if we're superfast, blaze up Outerspace)
Sunday evening - pick up the car at the other trailhead, drink beers at Uncle Uli's
Well, what do you think, is it in the realm of possibility? It's either that or Liberty Ridge.
Thanks for the help
-
-
In two weeks I'll be moving to Ketchum, Idaho. I'm wondering if anyone knows of good climbs over there?
I'm a bit nervous leaving the cascades behind.
Thanks!
-
Billygoat said:
How w i d e are those "ledges"? Where they connect to the chute I understand that the pitch is between 45 and 50 degrees. Is that the crux or is it earlier on in the ledges?
I've only done the route once, but I think the word "ledges" is a misnomer. It was more walking on steep scree and volcanic rock than anything else. I never felt like I was on a "ledge".
As other people have said it's a don't fall situation and I wouldn't rope up as there is really no way to protect the route.
That said, I felt that anyone with reasonable scrambling skills and balance could handle the route no problem.
About the skis, if the Ingraham is in shape I'd be inclined to take my skis up via Gib Ledges and ski down the Ingraham.
Scott
-
-
russ said:
Guess the bottom got upgraded to "a pitch". Couldn't remember it being 2 pitches, so I looked in my guides (most recent '93). In the oldest 2 the 10a part isn't listed, and in the '93 it's called "Thin Fingers approach'. Not arguing, just trying to restart the memory cells.
Right, "Thin Fingers approach" is considered the first pitch.
Now I'm no 5.11 leader, but I've top roped Thin Fingers on a couple occasions, I find "Breakfast of Champions" at .10a to be harder than Thin Fingers.
Does anyone else think that Thin Fingers is a bit over-rated? The start of the "second pitch" is tough, but the guide rates that 10d, while the upper portion of the crack is rated 11a (or b). I don't think it feels like 11 at all. Maybe Breakfast of Champions is underrated?
Comments?
-
This rope is brand new and still in the bag.
-
5.10 Mocasyms size 8.5.
Boreal Vector size 10. They feel more like a 9.
$50 per pair. Each pair has been resoled once, by Dave Page.
Apparently my feet grew since I started running
-
Last week in Yos
-
Sphinx said:
You stop sweating when humidity next to skin reaches 100%, according to Twight.
I don't believe that one bit. As a swimmer, I sweat underwater.
-
1) Royal Arches: 15 "pitches" in under 2 hours
2) Triple Couliors: my first ice climb (and lead)
3) Watching my wife swinging the tools on North Ridge Baker on her first glacier climb.
-
I found BD Prophet Ice tools on www.sierratradingpost.com for only $65 each!
-
Off_White said:
Iliketofoldmypaperbagsjustso,followingthecreasesastheycamefromthefactory,
thenintotthirdsandsortthembysizeandstacktheminthespecialcupboardjustfor
paperbagsanditdrivesmenutswhenpeopleputplasticbagsinwiththepaperbagsbecause
theyhavetheirowndrawertogointooncetheyhavebeenwashedandFULLYdried,allbecause
goodfoodcomesfromafullyorganizedkitchenandI'mnotoneofthoseladidahabout
botulismtypes,mylifehasbeeneversomuchmoreorganizedsincemydoctorprescribeddexadrine.
That's the funniest fucking post I've ever seen!
-
-
Sphinx said:
So, who'd you steal it from?
REI
-
10.5 x 50 Mammut Flash Superdry - $125
This rope is new, still in the bag. I bought it about 2 months ago and decided that I really don't need it. See attached photo
Arc'teryx Bora 80 - $150
This pack is about 4 years old, but it's seen very light use and is in great shape.
Scott
-
Does anyone know what needs to be done to replace the trigger wires on Wild Country flexible friends? I have two that need replacing, and none of the local shops seem to know what to do (I haven't called PMS since they're closed Sun-Tues).
Any help would be appreciated, right now the wires are being held together by duct tape.
Scott
-
This is duplicated in "North Cascades" forum:
Found hat on Liberty Crack (8th pitch Aug 23rd). If you can correctly describe it, it's yours.
Scott
-
Jeff and I did Liberty Crack two years ago in May. It was a 20 hour car to car epic, complete with wet pitches, untangling ropes on rappel at midnight and slogging through snow on top of the Bell.
This time was much better.
We started from the car at 4:30, at the base of the climb at 5:30, and climbing by 6:00. Jeff motored up the first A1 pitch and I jugged in a hurry, as I was shivering uncontrollably at the bottom. The sun finally warmed our bones at the top of the first pitch.
After three trips to Lib Crack, I finally got to lead the Lithuanian Lip; holy smokes its fun (and a real pain in the ass). After getting through the roof and bolt ladder to the top of two, I self belayed the A2 third pitch as Jeff jugged. I'd guess that this saved us about 30 minutes, which was great.
From the top of pitch 3 we swapped leads to the top, though I combined pitch 7 (A1) and 8 (5.9) into one long lead.
By the 10th pitch Jeff was back in his approach shoes, and decided to lead the 5.9 11th pitch in them rather than putting his rock shoes back on. Great lead, I was yarding up on gear the whole way, but then again I had the pack on
.We where back at the car around 6:30, making it 14 hours car to car. 6 hours faster than two years ago. Not bad.
Next week we're attempting Half-Dome Regular NW Face. Here's hoping for good weather and no one in front of us.
Scott
5 volcanoes in 5 days
in Climber's Board
Posted
Well, when I heard about this being attempted you could still climb St. Helens so yes St. Helens does (did) count.