The_Anti-Twight

I'll give you some cheap coils! Do you want them in a burning paper bag on your doorstep, or in the center of your front yard?!

Don't forget about the AAC library and the wealth of books,maps,accounts of ascents in the AAJ and the fact that as a member, you can have someone dig up beta, on just about most routes/most countries. Also, how much would you have to pay individually for the two books? And being insured on any peak 6000m and under,anywhere is a great deal. You also get a phonebook, with all of the AAC members #'s, so if you need some beta on freeing the nose in a day, call Lynn Hill. Hell, if you want a date, call Lynn Hill!

Hey Colin, I believe that is what the Nick Dodge book, that has a variety of obscure Oregon climbs, wrote in it. I don't have a copy of the book(they are hard to come by), but my partner has one. Perhaps Beckey beat Kor to the punch? There is a suprising amount of "adventure climbing" in Oregon, on some amazing formations, with ok rock. You won't wait in line, or have anyone else around, for that matter, in some amazing wilderness settings. Cheers!

Ha Billy, the "anti-Gu" is just tearing me! As a matter of fact, we made a full on anti-Twight,onsight loaded with anti-Gu(real food, that tastes good ie.salami,cheese, smoked almonds etc..)and although death & doom may have surrounded us, we never knew it. We climbed slow,without much style and grace,in the teeth of great conditions and are not feeling very pompous about it. And that's the way it was. Word to ya mutha, Billy! Texplorer, check your PM's.

You're tearing me up Texplorer!

The definition of "relative humidity"? The sweat that gathers on your balls when your screwing your sister. Oohh!

Plain and simply, I think MT is a total wanker and the little pic under the avatar fit the autosig nicely.

You mean the "Black Ice Couloir" on the Grand.

Cold Springs & South Climbers TH aren't within the reservation boundry; you'll have to traverse over to the route a little more than if you parked at Bird Creek Meadows, but you won't have to mess with the permit, or pay any more money than you need to, to climb the mountain. They make enough money off their casinos.

Yeah, you guys rule!

July 21st, SB and I drove 16 miles east of Prineville to this unique 350' pillar protruding out of the dense forest. Ah, Steins Pillar, a sight that provoked Layton Kor to drive all the way from Colorado for the second ascent. The NE face is the original line which was rated a lll-5.7 A3, is now more a 5.9 A2, due to the addition of more fixed gear and a couple newer bolts/hangers. The first pitch is a 5.5x chimney/offwidth for roughly 50'ft. to a nice belay stance in the mouth of a small cave. The second pitch traverses left for about 70'ft. and goes at 5.9 A1 (this used to go at loose A3). This brings you to the top of what's called the "low black knob". The third pitch follws a thin seam on small wires, into a few moves of nailing sawed-off angles into old bolt holes; at this point, I first encountered what I refered to as "Ace Hardware Specials". These little gems were square-head lag bolts(like you would buy at Ace), that the heads had been bent over to form an eye on the end; they then proceeded to sink these into old bolt holes, with the old bolt sleeves in place. Needless to say, it was a bit concerning how much they flexed, when you moved up onto them. The third pitch is around 90'ft. of 5.8 A2, onto what is called the "High Black Knob" What an incredible setting you have from here! The fourth pitch SB encountered 60'ft. of 5.8 A2, with a little more nailing sawed-offs into holes and into a little "Fred Beckey 5.8" and onto a small black ramp. From here you're just towering over this farmers house and spred, who owns all the land below the pillar. The fifth and final pitch climbs slightly overhanging 5.9 with old fixed pins as pro, into some of the most heady A1 (there is such a thing!). Above the fixed pins, 5 in a row of the "Ace" (you don't want to fall on one of these!)onto stacked pins that flexed more than the lags and back onto the "Ace" specials to a good belay/rappel station 10'ft. below the summit. From the top, you have an incredible view of the Ochoco Mountains and a few other smaller formations near by. With 2 60m ropes you can rap 150'ft. to the top of the third pitch and then 1 more rap of 180'ft. to the ground. This is a far superior climb to the "Monkeys Face", by any route! It is a larger pillar, in a much more impressive setting!

I find it hilarious that the Mazamas (a group that climbs mountains slowly and by seige) would help promote a guest speaker (Twight-who climbs fast, with few partners or solo and climbs well); the two have NOTHING in common.

I'd do it to help PMR and Climb Axe, but NEVER for the Mazamas OR Mark Twight. Why don't you get a better guest speaker, like Julia Childs.

AlpineK - could you trim me a bonsai tree that looks just like Scot'teryx and I'll put a neoprene mask on it and plant it on Piker's Peak(Mt.Adams false summit).

Natural selection doesn't always work; that fool should have been in the cab of the truck when that happened.