iain
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Posts posted by iain
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Anyone who enjoys climbing in the NW should make sure they visit Luna Col once in their lives. I don't think there's a finer spot in the N. Cascades.
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Cooper Spur is IN, go get it!
Light breeze out of the east at 50+ right now.
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Eric and Lucie your website has been an inspiration over the years, thanks!
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You are all missing the real take-home message here. No one actually owns pink tricams, and it is not worth your money/life/honor to clean them.
The pink tricam project (PTP) is a community effort developed in the early 80s (kindof like the yellow bike program in Holland), where you leave them behind on climbs unwillingly for others to collect, and collect them occasionally on future climbs when you happen upon them.
I know of at least one on the N. Buttress of Fury, and one on Young Warriors (Beacon Rock) if you want to save a few bucks.
Be careful badmouthing gym climbers. They are only a trad rack purchase away from kicking your ass.
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especially if you wear jeans, converse allstars and a flannel shirt and start yelling down at your partner that you're out of snaplinks as you thrutch up to the next bolt.
wait for a nice crowd to gather at the diving board.
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ahhhhh the smelliot. must be a nice change from the palmer headwall direct.
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I just clip the bolt behind the flake on that side.
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$100 says basecamp finds himself on the hogsback again this year.
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wow, that's a large bag
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It is sometimes a little nerve wracking to see people who are new the area (or new to trad even) gearing up for that side of the flake.
Hopefully they did not hurt their back on that pointy rock at the base.
J - thanks for replacing the slings, etc on mid free for some.
Note there is some poison oak creeping up onto the approach trail, near where the trail bends at the east face.
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Michelle, you might try contacting Portland Fire, as they are the ones who respond to Rocky Butte. I agree with Joseph, with a dirty, rolling edge transition in places RB can be hazardous, esp for non-climbers. I hope you are doing okay.
And remember the weather forecast for Rocky Butte: 50% chance of 40oz showers with a slight chance of porn mag flurries.
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The old chute is a walk, but gets a little steeper near the top. Don't be surprised by how steep it drops off on the north side. Then it is a walk on a sharp ridge (with a sizeable amount of exposure) to the summit. One of the real dangers I have seen is people traversing too slowly under the rime cliffs over to the old chute. Stuff is calving off those cliffs all the time.
The regular chute has a bit of a step to it, but it is probably getting buried right now. Then again, it might have firmed up so much, snow will just sluff off the thing for the rest of the year. Who knows. The regular route was mega-fun a few months ago, but certainly a big step up from what the typical south side climber would expect.
Whatever you do, please do not get into trouble up there right now, unless you want to see a true media feeding frenzy.
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WINDOWS DOWN!!!!
I want 'em down NOW!
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you haven't mastered a bowline until you can throw a bowline. get back to work.
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yep, green toyota taco. we had the playground pretty much to ourselves. my partner in crime might have some photos, but I was too busy having fun.
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YES! TD&H mtn was also incredible. You could throw yourself off just about anything.
So there's a sign specifically telling you _not_ to skin up the heather getback? It's not like people are hauling through that section. Almost destroyed a ski on gods wall yesterday, fun times.
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I was there today.
Glad you could make it. I think most peoples' biggest concern is more feel-good legislation with no teeth that really doesn't do anything, with significant hidden expenses, with no outline for funding.
Ironically, it could put rescue responses in greater danger by building an expectation of rescue, and more frequent "pull the trigger and sit" situations, due to a mandatory device.
Equally ironic is the fact the bill was introduced in memory of Jerry Cooke, who most likely fell off the north face, and would have had to pull the MLU device while falling to activate it. MLUs would not have saved that particular party.
It is a difficult message to convey, because the MLU has been very, very helpful in finding people in storms. That fact should not be discounted. Simply, they should be recommended but not mandatory. If you are going to require MLUs to promote safety, shouldn't you also require specific boots, crampons, axes, etc?
Anyway, I'm glad the latest climbers are back safely, so they can get chewed out by you guys.
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Ryland, I sent you a PM with some details.
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I haven't heard the outcome of the hearing and I don't know much about the process. I will do a little more digging today if possible.
The first public hearing featured Lim introducing his bill and why he introduced it. We had the inventor/director of the MLU program testify against the bill, along with the president of the Oregon Mountain Rescue Council, past president of the nat'l MRA, and Portland Mountain Rescue. Someone from the Access Fund testified against it. The sheriff of Hood River testified for it, with the reasoning he wanted to do everything possible to protect rescuers. I didn't get a chance to speak but I did an interview with KATU about how rescuers have the final say on what's too dangerous, and these climbers are not forcing us to go get them. We have said no before, and I believe most climbers out there recognize that we may refuse to come get them. The mandatory beacon law may change that relationship and promote a climate of expectation, possibly increasing danger to rescue teams and degrading the concept of self reliance.
Due to the fact many who wanted to testify were still up on the mountain for the most recent operation, the committee has offered a second public hearing at 1pm on Thursday 2/22, Hearing Room E, Capitol, Salem. All you have to do is sign in and speak. Or if you prefer, submit written testimony.
The committee seems to be pretty open to all ideas and are asking good questions.
To get a little historical perspective on Mt. Hood, I point to Lloyd's article for the AAC from 1997:
http://www.i-world.net/oma/news/rescue/athearn.html
Eerily similar.
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I believe this is due more to USFS staffing than anything. There is no climbing ranger position in winter, so updates are less frequent.
I have to wonder how many climbers take the time and effort to drive to Timberline only to see that printout and bag it.
It is good to hear the nwac report is being used. I can pass this on. The climber's registration area will be redone in the near future. Possibly featuring unmanned drone vending machines.
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For those who are concerned about the "locater beacon" issue, you should be aware of House Bill 2509. It has been assigned to the Government Accountability and Information Technology Committee. There will be an initial public hearing on Feb 20th at 1:00 pm (That's tomorrow). Hearing Room E, Capitol, Salem.
In 2005 Oregon Department of Emergency Management reported that 3.4 percent of all SAR missions were for climbers. 3 percent were for mushroom hunters. I am astounded the media has not picked up on these gripping mushroom hunter searches that also seem to be dominating OEM's time.
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It does seem similar to current ORS law, but this specifically targets winter climbers, and apparently, guides are getting lost up there too (news to me).
What I meant to say was, a "signaling device" was already defined in the ORS back in 1987, so suggesting that the definition is too vague in what is only a summary of a proposed bill would diminish the effectiveness of a letter to congress.
But perhaps the current ORS is too vague to begin with.
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I recommend reviewing the current Oregon Revised Statutes (chapter 401) before confronting the current proposed bill (remember, this is already law under which you as climbers must comply). Otherwise, your opinion will be discounted.
(1) "Electronic signaling device" includes, but is not limited to, a system consisting of an instrument which emits a radio signal, designed to be carried on the person, an instrument for locating the source of such signal, designed to be utilized by searchers and such instruments as may be employed for testing and maintaining the same.
(2) The Legislative Assembly recognizes that the use of electronic signaling devices can aid in locating wilderness travelers or mountain climbers who require search and rescue, but that the use of such devices may be required in unpredictable circumstances which may not result in successful function of such devices. [1987 c.915 §2]
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Enjoy this one:
http://www.leg.state.or.us/07reg/measures/hb2500.dir/hb2509.intro.html
Should be some entertaining committee sessions if it makes it there.
Speedflying Mt. Baker
in the *freshiezone*
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Yeah I saw that thing and was pretty amazed. He was ripping when he started touching down. Probably pretty low margin for error with that setup.
I also dig the AK Enemies still making themselves useful as potential rock skis. Those are twinned, just in case he lands switch.