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iain

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Posts posted by iain


  1. I have the Lithium and an older Pinnacle. As far as I can tell the Lithium is bare-bones compared to my other Marmot bag. Things like a watch pocket near your ear are not there on the Lithium to save weight. It also might be cut a little smaller to save some additional oz. I am satisfied with it.


  2. The cleanest descents from near the summit pinnacle on N. Sister are Thayer Glacier Headwall and Early Morning Couloir. Unfortunately they don't lend themselves to moving south. You can expect some steep snow/ice and rock with significant exposure to top out on these routes that time of year. If you descend via the standard s. route downclimbing into the bowling alley w/ ski boots and skis could be engaging if there is ice.

     

    It would be possible to pick your way down the west face in a southerly traversing fashion but it might not be as satisfying as the above and you'd be skiing it on-sight. It would put you in a good position for moving on to M. Sister. If you are game for the above descents you might consider Diller Headwall on M. Sister. The SW ridge is the classic descent.

     

    I would plan the # of days not for fitness level but to be skiing the routes at the right time of day.


  3. Labor Day is a rad time to be in the City. I've been there at that time with great results. I've also been during 4th of July and it's way too hot unless you have the discipline to take a mid-day nap and climb in the evening.


  4. Strange arguing going on here. Some stuff is cast, some isn't. The original Jumar is a cast frame. The Petzl Ascension is stamped.

     

    Every carabiner out there is probably forged out of aluminum bar stock, as that's the right way to make something light that has to catch a big fall.

     

    Smart rescue units have dumped their old steel carabiners as "unnecessarily strong" or set them aside for training only. If you want some I'm sure I can get a good deal on them.


  5. Here's the one I remember. It killed one person and injured a few more. Conditions were exceedingly unstable though. The crown extended around all of West Crater Rim.

    hood_avalanche_described.gif

     

    I've set off size 1-2's of windslab from the bergschrund before. It's definitely something to pay attention to. Unfortunately you're often on it when you realize it.

     

    Also, this photo really illustrates the changes over time to the terrain up there! This was back in 1998.

     


  6. You can skate w/o skins on skis to the Devils Lake TH from Mt. Bachelor via the highway, and come up the regular summer route. The return trip to Mt. Bachelor is a long hike/skin up the road.

     

    Hiking all that way sounds miserable. You could try carrying a case of PBR and stick your thumb out on the highway and the sledders would be happy to help your cause.

     

    Conditions are "firm" in the area right now, with late afternoon corn forming on south facing steeper inclines.


  7. Access Creek is not bad exiting. There is some slick heather to traverse (used crampons, even) from Luna Col and possibly some steep neve to downclimb the shoulder of Luna. After that it is an alder jungle gym for a bit then steep forest down to big beaver, where hopefully a log crossing can be found. Then it's the long grind to the boat dock, or worse, the dam.


  8. Probe perpendicular to the snow surface, whatever that may be.

     

    If you are good with your transceiver you should be striking within about 3 probes barring certain issues.

     

    If you are able to dig a big hole by the time someone gets their probe out, they need some serious practice with their probe. It should be a 10 second affair.

     

    Digging a deep hole in work-hardened snow accurately takes a lot of time and effort. You have to be on the money with where you dig, and with the probe in place on the strike you will have a target. You can't dig a hole straight down. You have to come in from the side.

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