Ced
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Posts posted by Ced
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Thanks for the info. We climbed the route yesterday (Sat. June 25), it was great, good position on the ridge with interesting and fun climbing. I'm surprised that it doesn't see a ton of traffic. If it was in the rockies the route would be a classic and have polished foot holds. Well worth the $25 for the ride up.
Cheers
Ced
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Looking for info on the Blackcomb Buttress route, is it mostly a 4th class rigdge or mainly low 5th as indicated. Are there anchors at the belays? and would we get away with using a 50m rope?
Thanks
Ced
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Thanks for the info.
Ced -
Considering the trip at the end of Sept. or Oct., with the shorter days how long does it take to hike in, and what are the camp sites like? Is there water near by, or were you melting snow? And for summit day is it a short day up & down?
Cheers
Ced.
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I was up there last Sept., The glacier is very straight forward but I wouldn't go unroped. On our way down we were messing around in the crevasses and saw a group following our tracks up. They were over a large crevasse that I outflanked,from my vantage I could see only a 12inch snow bridge supporting their weight. Its your call but if you go stay to the far right of the snow ridge up the glacier, and connect onto the right ridge (west?) lower down. If you goto the left ridge it also had a few crevasses opening up.
Cheers
Ced.
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Are there any bolted belays on Blackcomb Buttress?
Cheers
Ced
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Stopped by MEC this aft. they didn't have Selkirk North out yet...
Ced.
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Snow is down quite low still, We parked on the Cat lk. side when we hit the snow. We were about 1.5 - 2 km from the Mid station but with the warmer weather all weel it should only be about one km.
Have a good trip, I still think that climbing over the pinnical on the ridge is the crux of the route.
Cheers
Ced
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That was us, what a great day on Sun. Camped at the bivy on Brohm ridge, clouds at bedtime with -4 overnight; woke up to clear skies at 0330. Not a crevasse to be crossed all the way to the summit. Burgshrund(s) are filled in very well leaving the straight shot up. Snow varied from mid boot to thigh in depth with the majority of time sinking in to our knees. My partner did all the work busting a trail up. The final head wall had some thin snow areas but easily climbed and decended. There was a small cornice on the ridge which left a short area below the bergshrund exposed, we were down & out of its danger by 8:30. I was surprised and impressed by some of the skiers who skied down from the summit!!!
Cheers
Ced.
Thanks for the info Fern
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Climb: Garibaldi-N.E. Face
Date of Climb: 4/22/2004
Trip Report:
I'm planning my yearly trip up brohm ridge to climb the N.E. face. We've spent the last three years in a white out without seeing the route up. With the good weather this weekend were making a run for it. Anyone been up recently to give a conditions report? Is the Bergshrund starting to open with all the warm weather?
Cheers
Ced
Approach Notes:
Brohm ridge.
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An addition to daler's report for those heading up for the ice fest this weekend. We were in Banff last week, all climbs were in fat conditions with the popular routes kicked out.
Louise Falls - A steal at a 4
This house of sky - a fun route, but we didn't slog up to the last two pitches at the top of the bowl. Ghost access was easy with a normal 4x4 ei. Jeep, Pathfinder...
Professors - Seeing alot of traffic 7 parties on Wed. probably due to Cascade falling. Second last pitch very wet, last pitch (crux)in good conditions.
Halfner - lots of ice.
Our rest day at Grotto saw the falls in the fattest conditions I've seen. His & Hers are in the sun and about a half to a third the size of normal. Mental jewelry seemed to have bigger holds, someone must be climbing with a prospectors hammer.
Cheers
Ced.
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The moaning tree wall was in as of Jan. 5th. Left side was real thin, 3-4" for a good part. A fellow from another party strapped on a large pair and lead it with three stubbies.
Right side had great ice, we played here then TR'd the left side. A great day so close to the LMD. Not sure of what the routes were called.
Cheers
Ced
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On the same line, how about the fellow from Colorado who cut off his own hand!!! Then hiked out on his own.
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Good climb Jordop,
I couldn't make it back before this warm weather hit. How was the decent could you rap off the trees or abalakov's? If we get another cold snap before the snow hits, I'll head back.
Cheers
Ced. -
I was out for a hike/scramble of Hope Mtn today. At the end of the road there are four (4) ice routes formed. Two were grade 3, about 60-70m, two more shorter easier routes and what looked like a grade 4. All within a 5-10 min walk from road end. I checked West Coast Ice and didn't see these climbs. Bad news is the forest road has a river of ice from side to side (40m long) at the 3.7 km mark leaving a 5 km walk to the routes. Chains may help.
For Hope Mtn, there is only between 2-4 inches of snow in the shade, south aspect melting bare patches. The crux which has a fixed rope is now encased in ice. I scrambled up to the right, 5m of class 3 which lead to snow & ice covered slabs. The rest was just a great day in the mtns. There are numerous ice routes up high on Hope Mtn, with poor access.
Cheers
Ced
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Was up on Black Tusk on Oct. 13, lots of new snow!!! Road is still drivable to the gate. A group of rock skiers were out, there was about 40cm of snow with wind blown areas. Drifts were wind packed and most could be travelled easily with the odd thigh deep or better post hole. Lots of rim ice up in the chimneys but melting fast, would have been a sporty climb with crampons and tools.
Ced
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I've been waiting for S.N. for some time. Comparing S.S. to Columbia mtn Central is a joke. The Selkirks have great rock, great routes and other than Sir. Don or Uto the long drive means you have the mtn to yourself.
Someone plead with Dave Jones to get over the squables and print the guide!
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Thanks Dru,
Is it easier to get to the N. ridge from the medows side or the east side?
Ced.
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Looking for route information on the ridge to the true summit as seen in 103 hikes pg. 66. Ridge would follow the right sky line of what appears in the photo as two small peaks (Not the west summit). Ridge is reached from Tricouni medows. I'm not sure if this is the South Ridge or east ridge. Any info would be great, planning a trip up there this weekend.
Cheers
Ced
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We went up to Brandywine on Sunday only to find the area closed by a new Hydro project, scheduled to open July 31.
So we changed objectives only to find the road to the Microwave tower baracaded with cement blocks, earth and two large logs about 3-4 km in. So much for a fun day trip.
Cheers
Chris.
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Thanks for the info Paul, a great photo. With any luck I'll get the same stunner weather
Cheers
Ced.
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Planning a trip up Garibaldi in the next couple of weeks. Does anyone know if the bergshrund has opened up yet.
Cheers
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Lambone, here's a couple of my favourites that I have taken my wife on and she enjoyed herself. First is a Rockies classic of Mt. Victoria and Mt. Lefroy. Both are accessed from the Abbott hut which has all the necessities to keep the pack light. Tones of Canadian Moutaineering history at the hut. Just avoid the weekends as the hut gets busy.
The second trip I would recomend is the Presidents in Yoho park (Fifteen minutes from Lk. Louise)which also has an great hut to stay at; the Stanley Mitchell. Both the President & Vice Pres. can be easily done in a day from the hut and are more of a glacier walk with incredible scenery. Either a easy warm up climb of and end of trip round up.
Have a good trip.
Ced.
![[Cool]](images/icons/cool.gif)
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Travis, the trail head is on the left side of the clearing and goes up through the trees before coming out onto the grassy slopes below the lake.
....and yes the lake is Williamson.
Cheers
Ced
Welch Peak
in British Columbia/Canada
Posted
Looking for info on access, I read on Bivouac that the Foley Cr FSR was blocked. Does anyone know if I can still make it to the roads leading to the Williamson Lake trail and drive to the trail head?
Cheers
Ced.