JUSTO

Climbed cya yesterday. It definitely has filled in more since Alpine Dave's photo. The #4 Camalot is key (& the fixed pin helpful) on the lower part. Nice fat ice above. The upper curtain on Amazonia (far left) was a little lean still but filling in. Then free hanging pillars to the right of mentioned climb are about 5 ft from touching down. They would be pretty impressive leads. The winds yesterday made for some COLD climbing! Keep the reports coming!

Check PM

Climb: Dragontail-North Face Date of Climb: 4/6/2004 Trip Report: Just wanted to give this route a thumbs up and tell folks they should put this on their to do list. Partner and I both agreed it was the best alpine route we've done in the Cascades. Cruxes were grade 3 ice, thin (mostly) and narrow in places with mixed moves thrown in as well. Lower half of the route consisted of this type of climbing interspersed with snowfields. Thanks to the folks last weekend for kicking steps for us. Enjoy! Some photos are in the gallery. Gear Notes: Small rock rack with with screws.

Scarpa's response regarding Inverno liners: Justin, Thanks for writing. I would suggest handwashing the liners with Woolite, and drying thoroughly. Stuff newspaper into the liners, to help soak up the moisture, and continue to do this until all the moisture has been soaked up. If you have any shoe trees, use them to keep the liners from shrinking. I hope that helps. Cheers, Rob Robert Kilkenny Black Diamond Retail 2084 E 3900 S Salt Lake City, UT 84124 801-278-5533 801-278-5544 (fax) robertk@bdel.com www.blackdiamondequipment.com www.scarpa-us.com www.biblertents.com www.franklinclimbing.com

Along the same lines...My inners for my Inverno boots are in desperate need of a cleansing. I'm assuming a soap and water treatment would be fine--- but bleach? I've emailed Scarpa and am waiting for a reply, any other suggestions?

Another follow up as of 3-2-04 Moonline-There but very thin @ bottom Snowline-Had the most ice of the three/in about 3+ conditions 2 Low 4 Zero- No ice on the bottom Nothing but the Breast- 1st approach pitch was thin with better ice above. Upper pitch was in good condition still Murchison-Great shape. Upper pitch a little wetter than lower stuff. Virtual Reality-Lower half is there, but upper is melted out Panther Falls-Super fun route. Technical climbing for the grade. Make sure to just walk off the top. We chose to try to rap back down to our packs from above..much easier to walk back down. Weepping Wall-Looked to be all there still, but could tell sun had been hitting it pretty hard. Polar Circus-Looked beautiful, make sure to take a number the moment you arrive in Banff. Bourgeau Right-Climbed by another Seattle crew and reported to be in fatter than normal conditions Enjoy!

The route was Midnight Rambler. http://www.mytelus.com/news/article.do?pageID=news_home&articleID=1527996

What's up with Three Ring Circus? Does that rarely form or is it just that no one climbs that thing?

Any idea if a new edition of West Coast Ice is in the works? Seems like a lot of new activity has been occuring the last few years.

Thanks for the conditions report as I am heading up on the 27th. Reports like this are one of the best things about this site. Psyched to get on some BIG BLUE ICE!

WI5???? are you on drugs? that was originally rated WI3 and then crept up to 3+ before settling in at easy 4. "The Tube" is just too short to be rated any higher than WI4- (if that). Fun route with easy access!

Thanks for the clarification.

Alex- This is the climb that is referred to as "Not Quite a Plum" in your guidebook. Despite its name it is actually a fun outing, especially earlier in the season before it gets covered in snow. Is this the same climb that is referred to as Bryant Buttress Left/Right?

I definitely agree w/TimL regarding local mixed climbing. Since most of us can't spend half the winter in Banff, why not spend weekends doing some mixed stuff locally. It will make you stronger for your next trip and make water ice seem a little easier. Hats off to the folks putting up the lines. BTW, nice leading TIM!

Another thumbs up for the guide! It would be nice to know the altitude of the climbs as well as which direction they face (north, south, etc...) Is that going too far?

How many of you ice climbers carry a third tool? I always carry an extra for fear of dropping one and being screwed without an extra. I see a lot of ice climbing pictures where the climber does not seem to have a third. Scary!