Travis
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Posts posted by Travis
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The guy I talked to said he had to aid the 5.13 pitch. I don't know if anyone's linked the whole route yet.
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Limestone sporto cliff eh? How about basalt? Talked to a guy at Murrin Sunday who just climbed the Black Dyke...Free. Free at last, bolted all the way with the possibility of aiding the 5.12 and 5.13 pitches on bolts.
Now that's a sport climb!
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You'd probably been and gone already, but we parked and walked from the landslide Saturday. It's literally 7-10 minutes easy strolling to the clearing. I don't even recall a switchback from that point.
Anyway, I can assure you that you made the right choice in changing objectives. We couldn't see enough to find the trail, let alone a climbing route.
![[Confused]](images/icons/confused.gif)
After bailing early, we drove up East Harrison to look at the Old Settler. Not climbable yet, but the road is completely free of snow all the way. If you don't mind pushing a little bush at the end you could get right to the trailhead. (or bring a hatchet; wouldn't take long to prune it back a bit.)
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Yup, the headwall below the lake, climbers right.
We were up there Saturday, didn't see any other vehicles on that road. From what I heard, the weather in vancouver and squamish was a lot better than where we were. It was showering and until about noon we were in thick cloud, at least above 1200m.
The cliff itself is pretty grungy and loose, but I wouldn't describe the vegitation as amazing. The thrash up to the lake at The Old Settler was much worse; at least in August. Above the trees, the thing I remember about the actual rock was not the vegitation, although there was plenty. There was a thin layer of slushy snow clinging to much of the moss and we were having to dig for holds. I was glad to see a good selection rap trees once we'd decided to bail. There were more big trees above us so we could have gone higher without feeling at all committed, but frankly the climbing sucked. In any event, we were a good rope-length above the forest when we descended.
[ 06-10-2002, 01:12 PM: Message edited by: Travis ]
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Okay so here's the deal.
We headed up Saturday, the road is drivable all the way to the parking area (4x4). However, a small slide brought down a big stump about 10 minutes walk from the end of the road; this will stop you. The snow doesn't start 'til the parking area and will probably be higher even now. The snow conditions were not bad with a few inches of soft over fairly solid neve. No problem kicking steps with plastics. No need for snowshoes.
As for the attempt...
We were in really thick cloud once we hit the clearing and ended up following some bogus flagging tape into the trees. We followed a trail in but quickly lost it and just beat it up the hill hoping to see something from treeline. Unfortunately we hit a huge cliff, this is the wrong way.
After scrambling up a ways, then roping up and climbing a pitch we were able to look back above the trees. At this point it was obvious that we were screwed, since the way above was a big steep loose rock climb and our intended route was way to our left. We rapped once, downclimbed and plunge stepped down back to the point where we'd entered the trees. By then, the sky had cleared and we could see where we'd gone wrong and took the time to locate the right trail since it was too late to attempt a climb. (Pink flagging tape, left of the stand of trees)
We'd brought a light climging rope, some rock gear and crampons. The crampons were not necessary at but I'd pack them up if I were going again before it melts out. We did use the rope and gear, including one KB, but then again we were off-route. Conditions are such that we would have been 4th classing some of the route for sure.
Write it off to a day of exploration and conditioning in the mountains.
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Fair enough,
The presence of slush on top would ruin it for me. (no fun) I'm going to be checking out this area for the first time so I'm interested to know: what are these 'funner' routes you speak of?
The S Ridge seems like it would be better as a summer solo objective than a spring climb. The Southern aspects on supposedly loose rock don't sound good either.
Thanks again
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Thanks Dru,
Do you think the NW Face would go?
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Looking at heading up to Welch this weekend (S Ridge), anyone been up there lately?
Interested to know if the gate on Foley Lake Rd is open and how high the snow is in the Cheam range at the moment.
Thanks
[ 06-06-2002, 01:44 PM: Message edited by: Travis ]
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Heard there was an avalanche blocking the road and they don't expect it to melt out for at least a month or so. (a friend called the forest service)
I have not personally been up there to look so I don't know if they've opened the gate or not, but I'd go with the expectation of walking that road.
![[Frown]](images/icons/frown.gif)
If you go or hear different, please post it here. I'd like to head up there myself.
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I did the complete mountaineering course with them a few years ago. Eight days covering absolutely everything related to climbing and mountaineering. It was very good value, even though it covered some rope-work and rockclimbing stuff I already knew. The crevasse rescue, ice climbing, building snow anchors were all quite valuable for me, and the rockclimbing part was fun anyway.
I agree with Teogo about getting a guide if you can convince friends to join you. I did a short day of instruction for lead climbing that way shortly after the mountaineering course. Instruction is generally cheaper than straight guiding and with more than two you'll probably be cheaper than the mountain school.
If you're by yourself, a ready-made group is pretty convenient but has all the usual trade-offs. They're not the only game in town though. You could check Squamishrockguides.com or look at the BCMC. BCMC will certainly be the cheapest, and they run weekend/evening courses so you won't have to take vacation days for it.
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Mclane's guide is the only thing going for alpine rock in SW BC, but he limited the book to cover only weekend range from Vancouver.
Look at Selkirks South by David Jones, also published by Elaho. You could head in and do Mt. Sir Donald and tick off one of the fifty classics.
Central BC Rock by Lyle Knight also covers routes on Yak Peak in addition to the cragging options in the southern interior. Yak is impressive looking from the highway, but gets mixed reviews as a climb; I plan on finding out for myself though.
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While in New Zealand over Xmas, there was the first ever double amputee to climb Mt Cook. I'm not certain, but pretty sure he lost his legs above the knee.
Here's a link to a feature, probably find more on him if you look around. (maybe even his email address)
http://onenews.nzoom.com/news_detail/0,1227,75523-1-5,00.html
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http://www.bluntbros.com/
Try http://www.mybc.com as well.
mybc sucks, it's run by the phone company and is really hard to navigate. But if you're patient and determined you'll probably find the yellow pages and maps etc...
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quote:Originally posted by JRCO:While living in Olympia, I heard on numerous people going to Vancouver, BC for the operation. I heard it is a lot less expensive. Any one know the name of the doctor.
I had mine done at 'The Laser Center', it's since been acquired I think, but the office still operates under another name. In any event, the Doctor's name was Simon Holland.
The price is somehow based on how strong the prescription is, so my price was about $1000 Cdn for one eye and another $2000 Cdn for the other. Your mileage may vary, that was three or four years ago now.
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Yeah, contacts/glasses suck.
I had my eyes done using the Lasik technique about three years ago, and within 4 months of the surgery travelled to Kenya and up to nearly 5000 meters ASL on Mt Kenya with no ill effects. I asked about the altitude thing at the time and the doctors convinced me it was a non-issue with my prescription and the method they were using. (they just didn't need to take that much of my lense to make it work)
If your prescription is stable, and not super strong, I think it's well worth the risk. (very low risk these days.)
In Lasik, the skill of the surgeon has more of an impact, since they need to peel back the flap they create by hand. You don't want that detaching on you and if it does they'll claim the only thing you can do is a cornea transplant. Truth is, if the surgeon is good, he might be able to fix it on the spot. I requested a specific guy that I'd heard of as being one of the best (he was in Vancouver BC then, probably still is)
My eyes now are 20/20 but they were slightly better with corrective lenses before. I haven't noticed any night vision issues.
Recovery time was trivial, I did it Friday afternoon, and was back to work by Monday morning. A few weeks for the pain to go away completely, and vision to stabalize; but it was instantly better.
You can send me questions directly, or post them back here if you want.
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We, on the other hand, slept in and were at what I think was the Thermometer Gully at around 10:30 Saturday. The ice was already dripping. We did one pitch as the sunny side of Harvey Basin started sloughing like crazy and the amount of crap flying down the gully increased, so we bailed. The ice was 'intermittent' to say the least.
Seems to me that a ton of ice forms back here, anyone know of routes other than the ones in W Coast Ice?
There are a number of nice looking continuous lines up ice, snow and rock that would take you to the top of the W. Lion (probably via the NE Buttress). I suspect conditions would prevent it from being safe most years, at least for me.
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quote:I hear that there is 5 pitch climbs in the sun on the backside of the Chief, but you have to hike.
No doubt Squamish will be crawling with ichy climbers this weekend, but probably only at lower elevations. (Penny Lane for sure, and elsewhere in the bluffs) The climbs on the sunny, backside of the chief are pretty high and will probably still be snowy, but you can scope it out as you drive in.
Last weekend I walked up to Cobra Crack at the Cirque of the Uncrackables to find snow on the ground and icicles dripping out of the climb all the way up. The same day there were people free climbing at the base of the Grand Wall so you just gotta pick your spot.
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The north shore/howe sound has been my winter conditioning/hiking/climbing home for the last two seasons. The snow comes in warm and consolidates fast, the peaks are low with less snow and I can look out my window in the morning to see if the visibility sucks or they've just had a big dump.
So, at least one more foray up there this weekend.
It required a road trip to Burnaby, but I finally got a copy of West Coast Ice. I see a possible link up of easy ice climbes from Thermometer Gully, traverse over to the notch and do the SE Gully of the West Lion. This would get us roped up and climbing 2 hours from the car and we'd have bail out points and variations to try most of the way up.
Questions:
Are we about to be spanked back? Snow should be solid, but I can't predict ice conditions. I think they'll be okay.
Where do these lower climbs top out? Ideally, we'd like to pop up at the tow of the buttress of the W. Lion, but I suspect we'll be well right of that.
Are the lower climbs worth it? Since there's a risk we'll run out of time, should we bail on the early pitches and go straight to the SE Gully?
Oppinions?
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Nice pic, but I think 'drool' capacity should read 'fill-your-pants' capacity. (ref. bivouac.com for puzzled surfers)
For Welch, I think 14 hrs in winter is a little optimistic. Lack of AT gear and my additional drive time and I'd be bringing bivy gear for sure.
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Anyone have any info on U-Wall during or shortly after rain? Is it protected, do the cracks drip, does it run like a raging torent? I usually save aid for non-free climbing days so I'm used to wet as long as it's not too crazy.
I've been trying to get up there myself, so send me a note if you need a partner (or a third?).
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Thanks for the info on the ice climb, just gotta locate that book now. It became a moot point anyway, snow didn't stop falling until too late Friday so I ended up doing the bottom of Cannabis Wall instead.
Reason for choosing the North Shore wasn't transport, just thought the conditions would be more solid and predictable had the forcast come true. (They're relatively low and the only mountains I can see from home.)
Unfortunately, my transportation options do not include a 4x4 (or skis). So, as for Welch, I'm quite interested in doing a winter climb in that area. I've been up that road (in a friends 4x4) and I don't get the impression that it would go at all in winter. I'm assuming this is the approach you're talking about, which probably means I'm spending the night; is that right?
I've been up to look at the North side of Harvey in the last 10 days and I can confirm that it looked in really good shape from the bottom.
Thanks again,
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I'm looking for some moderate snow/ice lines that would go this weekend (Feb 23/24). Day trip'able from Vancouver perfered but not required, suggestions?
Conditions in the North Shore group should be great if the weather holds, so I'm considering the backside of Crown Mt, the gully that's visible in Mclane's Alpine Select, but not described.Has anyone done this in winter? Is it even worth the trip?
Also, Fairly mentions a 3 pitch ice climb up the SE Gully of the West Lion, anyone layed eyes on this? How hard, how likely to be present? Tried the ice up the north side of Harvey last year, mostly climbed on roots and turf, but the second pitch would have been much better if my partner had tools.
I'm not aware of similar climbs elsewhere near by, so by all means enlighten me.
Be nice to have a partner as well, had some cancelations and will most likely be soloing; not by choice.
later...
Cheam Range Conditions
in British Columbia/Canada
Posted
We didn't go that far, just to the approach for the Daiphy lake side. My friend wasn't willing to scratch up his new'ish 4Runner on the trees encountered after you fork left on the last stretch of logging road.
Anyway, if the road is normally free of bush I'd be willing to bet that it's free of snow now. It was pretty dry where we were and melting fast.