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Posts posted by tread_tramp
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Tom check your pms
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pp. 81-83 of Crowder and Tabor's book describes the Black Mountain High Route, starting at Red Pass and finishing around the west side of Lake Byrne. It rates it a Difficult 3,000-foot climb,3850-foot descent,7 miles, 8 hours. Although I have no personal experience with this route, I can pass along the information from the book if you'd like.
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I agree with arch on this one. If you are worried enough about hidden shards of glass that you would climb with gloves your taking too big a risk. Even tiny bits of grit that might get into your rope will chafe against the fibers and I wouldn't want to be climbing with a rope that has tiny shard of glass embedded and making little cut each time you move the rope.
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"It seems that it is a very americain habit of placing the pick forward while carrying the ice axe."
This is the method I prefer because with the palm resting on the adze, in the event of a slip, it is easier to thrust the shaft of the axe into the snow for a self belay.
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In answer to your initial question, I've enjoyed camping at Leprachan Lake and think it is situated well for a mutiday stay with the various peaks you mentioned in mind, with the exception of Colchuck Peak.
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Soul Mountain by Gao Xingjian
Oh and The Whole Earth logue
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There are plans in the works to move the Mounties base of operations to Magnuson. new location
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A number of years back I bought a 30 m rope for glaciers from Pro Mountain Sports which appeared to be 1/2 of a cut 60m rope. Don't know if he'd do that with a rock climbing rope.
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A buddy of mine spent several years researching this one after his son stumbled on the wreckage while planting some high lakes. He wouldn't even tell the forest circus where it was until he got the militaries cooperation in the matter. He guided the military to the site last year and a recon was done to assess the situation.
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I was up there with a group of mounties a few years back. Two of us got as far as the right side of the notch in the ridge; spitting distance from the summit. Then everyone decided they wanted to go home. Rather than risk a mutiny, I said OK. I would like to get back up there though.
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I can't help but add; "nice pics."
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Traitor. He used the training that was given to him to defend his country and he used it to murder his own countrymen. These are among the absolute worst crimes one can commit. He deserves much worse than death.
Put him in a meat grinder alive and feed him to dogs.
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Good work there, TT, looking up the details of that Kautz crash.
I'd just climbed the Fuher Finger route about a week before that incident so it caught my attention when it happened.
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A plane carrying four Pendleton cowboys to a rodeo in Penoka, Alberta crashed into Mt. Rainier near the Kautz Glacier on July 4,1990, of course killing all four and their pilot.
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As usual; Dan Larson Sux!
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No more rescue of climbers by the Army
in Climber's Board
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the nat'l guard used a UH-1 when they pulled me off of Chimney Rock in '03. They saved my ass for which I am greatful.