stinkyclimber
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Posts posted by stinkyclimber
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...or I'd get it as a spare
That's the spirit!! Anyone else need a spare?!
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All this stuff is now sold! (except for the Nozone - go check it out!)
Thanks to everyone who expressed interested (and to the guy who bought it all!).
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Here's the most recent road and trail report for Wedge from Bivouac.com (it is a paid-access site, but well worth the $20/year access fee if you are in the Coast Mtns a lot...take this cut and paste data as a sampler - no more free stuff for ya!
):Road report:
2004.04.09 Stopped by snow and tree: We could only drive about 1 km up the road (from the highway). A large alder tree , and deep snow patches prevented further travel.
Trail report:
2004.04.11 Soft snow on the trail: Two of us hiked to the hut yesterday, to see condition of the glacier bellow Wedge (and dream about North Arête). Parked at the beginning of the trail between few trucks and cars, because upper parking lot was inaccessible. Started at 10:45. Snow was very soft and very difficult for hiking. It was very hot, but beautiful. It took us 5 hours to reach lake! Our summer time is 2.5 hours even with big packs. In front of the hut, we met girl from party of 4. They were there since Friday and came on skis. Up to hut skiing conditions were not perfect, but excellent from hut to the beginning of North Arête. Glacier looked smooth and very safe. Group was planning to climb Arête, but switched to area close to Weart, according to girl. She turned back from middle of the glacier, because of bad blisters she got from skiing to hut on Friday. She mentioned that they tried winter route first, but lack of snow pushed them to go for regular trail. We had photo session for 30 minutes and run back. It took us 3 hours to reach parking lot. Snow was very soft and hike was very unpleasant. It's OK to go right now for day trips there but you should expect to suffer a little. Trekking poles are highly recomended!
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Check out my Nozone for sale at Yard Sale thread.
I am about 6'2", and I was a little short for it, so it might fit you nice. Note that it ain't a good ski pack, but awesome for alpine climbing.
Edit: oops, I see you are in CA. Too far for shipping.
I have the Khamsin 62 and I like it - althought I would say it would be too small for 4 days in the winter probably.
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We were at the Smoke Bluffs last fall, in the Ronin's Corner area. Some young gun cruised up and asked about the grade on that diagonal/leaning route (not the undercling corner, but the one further left, I think. just below/right of the arete) to the left of Ronin's Corner itself. I had done it about 6-7 years before, and said "5.9ish, I think", but clearly wasn't sure.
However, I didn't know he was planning on soloing it, because about 10 seconds after, he jumped on it. He was all shaky and shit thru the first 25 feet. Then he got all nervous at the crux, and whined back to us about "Is this really 5.9?". I told him, "I said , 'I think'", then we jetted out of there, not interested in picking up the pieces. When I got home, I checked the guide...5.10+, I think. Ooops.
Lesson: if you are going to solo, rely on yourself for assessing difficulty!
Another lesson: don't guess at grades in response to questions from climbers without a harness!
Anyway, he clearly survived, because we didn;t hear any screaming from further down the trail, and saw no news of it the next day.
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Various folks are interested in the alpine pins, the old-skool shit and the whole shooting match. Still figuring out how to hand off the stuff to these potential buyers.
Just wanted to note that preference will be given to ease of hand-off (in person, rather than shipping), and someone interested in more, rather than less....so if you are interested, let me know ASAP
Sorry for the retro conditions, but I am just not set up/too lazy for complicated sales.
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Selling my Nozone. Size Tall. $125CDN or $95US. Excellent condition. PM me.
Would prefer to do a hand-off to a buyer, rather than ship. I live on Vancouver Island, but I am in the Squamish-Pemberton corridor every weekend for skiing or climbing, so it hopefully we could hook up easily enough if you are interested.
Really doesn't fit me as well as I would like, but it is otherwise an awesome alpine climbing pack. Bought it years ago, and it slowly fell out of favour - now I like my new Khamsim 52 (fits my height better). Used on perhaps a dozen trips, never hauled. All the exterior seams are seam-sealed against abraision. Haven't cut off anything major, I don't think.
Cool features:
- The interchange waistbelt (with gear loops and hammer holster) is awesome: padded our cushy; or minimalist webbing that works great over a harness.
- Clean design - no dangling bits (although the "Ghost Straps" are a bit of pain for stapping on skis - this is more of a climbing-only pack, then a combo skiing/climbing pack).
Here are the marketing BS specs from the website:
"An alpinist's dream- a super clean design with trick materials creates a light, functional, versatile and durable pack with convertible features.
Design:
Short: Weight: 2.2 kgs / 4lbs 13 oz
Normal Load: 2750 cu in / 45 l
Ext Load: 3360 cu in / 55 l
Regular: Weight: 2.3 kgs / 4lbs 14 oz
Normal Load: 3050 cu in / 50
Ext Load: 3660in / 60
Tall: Weight: 2.4 kgs / 5 lbs 4 oz
Normal Load: 3360in / 55
Ext Load: 3970 cu in / 65 l
Features/Construction:
-Dual daisy chains and dual ice axe loops
-Dual density closed cell foam shoulder straps
-Hypalon™ quick release ski attachments
-Interchangeable unisex hipbelt
-Removable frame sheet, lid and padded hipbelt
-Six internal compression straps
-Stretch woven fabric on body contact surfaces
-Web hipbelt also included"
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Cleaning out my cupboard of a bunch of crap I haven’t used for years. Mostly stuff I got cheap at garage sales or consignment shops when I was actually trying to get interested in aid climbing (too boring!) in the mid-1990s. So, most of the stuff is quite old, since I bought it used almost 10 years ago. However, unless noted, the stuff is mostly totally unused, or only very lightly used. Some great museum pieces to boot! I am flexible on the pricing, but would prefer not to haggle too much (too boring), so don’t fuck around.
I would prefer to do an actual hand-off to buyers, rather than do a lot of shipping and all that shit. I live on Vancouver Island, but I am in the Squamish-Pemberton corridor almost every weekend for skiing or climbing, so hopefully connecting up won’t be too hard. Having said that, if all else fails, I am sure we can figure the shipping stuff out (seems like too much of a pain, unless you buy a lot of this crap).
PM me. I will update this posting as stuff gets sold/changed.
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Misc. aid shit: (unused or nearly unused)
a. 15 Oval Biners (SMC and Omega), $30CDN or $25US
b. 4 six-step aiders (On Sight Equipment, in Squamish – bought at MEC), $50CDN or $40US ($160CDN new!)
c. A5 padded gear sling (with two gear loops, one shorter, one longer), $10CDN or $7US
d. BD Zodiac double gear sling, $15CDN, or $10US (bought at MEC, $38CDN new)
e. Old-skool Aid Shit Package (unused or nearly unused except where noted), $55CDN or $44US
- 3 Chouinard Equipment bongs (4”, 2.5” and 2”), nearly unused, vintage museum pieces (not for smoking with)
- 3 Leeper Z’s (2 short, 2 med., 1 long), nearly unused, very good shape
- 1 Salewa Z (long)
- 3x 1” Angles (SMC)
- 1.5” Angle (SMC)
- 3/4" Angle (SMC)
- 3/4" Angle (Chouinard), beat up but still usuable
- 4 Lost Arrows (some of them beat up, and mostly the “weird” ones – long dongs, short thick ones…none I would use for alpine use (I have already used those!))
- mess of heads (most of them new, mostly aluminums, some circles) with cold chisel
- Hooks: Cpt Hook, BD Talon, BD Pecker and BD Beak
- 3X #0 RPs
f. Alpine Pins Package (all in very good condition, some in new condition), $40CDN or $30US
- 2 Baby Angles (BD)
- #1 Knifeblade (BD)
- 2x #2 ‘Blades (BD)
- #4 Bugaboo
- #6 Bugaboo
g. Hand-drillers special, $10CDN or $8US
- 3 Lucky SS hangers with 3/8”X2.5” (short) SS bolts
- 5 Leeper hangers with 1/4" buttonheads (museum pieces perfect for scaring the shit out of all who repeat your new FA!)
Other stuff:
h. Salewa Scissor crampons (size 2), need new straps, otherwise nearly unused (these fit tele boots really well, and are light, but strong – and fuck, they are retro-cool), $15CDN or $10US, or free with any other purchase over $50 if you want them!
Also: There’s an Arc’Teryx Nozone for sale in my other thread, $125CDN or $95US
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the scabs on my shins have to heal up before i will put those ski boots on again.
That's what duct tape is for. It goes on real easy....
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no i have some scarpa lasers now.
Fuck, that is practically cheating. It wasn't that long ago you would have been learning in single leather tele boots. AND walking uphill - both ways - to school.
Anyway, good job. Next step: ski the entire Barrier Trail in full icy conditions. At night. With a full pack.
Or a bit more fun: ski up Baker (I will probably be into that sometime in the next few weeks...always a fun spring trip - lemme know).
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#1) not in great shape and #2) who doesn't even know how to ski.
Yah, but you are being modest by denying that you aren't in good shape!!
However, you are right about the skiing part - esp. if Dru is dealing with new gear as well as a total lack of skiing ability! But, I bet Dru would have found the skiing/butt-sliding easier without all that crap in his pack!McBrides in 2 days - sure. Now that WILL make the Neve in a day seem easy!
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damn:
dru - elfin to sentinel - 10 hrs and change
stefan - sentinel to elfin - 3 hrs
i've been howitted!!!
Actually, Dru, knowing your level of fitness, and if you actually left all that shit you carried in your pack, doing the Neve in a reasonable day, car to car is really not that hard. Holmes and I did the whole thing in 8-10 hours and really, it was a pretty casual day (and I am NOT in great shape, by any means!).
Just pack for a day trip, and it becomes an easy day trip. Pack overnight shit, or even bivy shit, and... It is a much better day trip then an overnight.
And knowing how to ski downhill isn't critical, since the only downhill bits are a little sidehilling into Ring Ck, and then the ski down into Sentinel Bay...and I suppose the icy hell run down the Barrier Trail, but by that stage, walking isn't a huge deal.
Apparently the Whistler guys are thinking about doing the Spearheads twice in a day, so the Neve in a day even for hackers shouldn't be that big a deal.
PS - doing the Neve from Garibaldi Lake is fun too, esp. without a car - that adds nicely to the challenge - but it is definately longer. Nice night time blitz/food-scarf at Sentinel Hut strategy from Stefan!
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Hey Peter!
in Spray
Since Canada has no First Amendment, anti-bias laws generally trump free speech and freedom of religion.
That is a crazy article. Yes, the Canadian Charter of Rights and Freedoms doesn't have a "First Amendment". Instead, it has a "Section 2":
Everyone has the following fundamental freedoms:
a) freedom of conscience and religion;
b) freedom of thought, belief, opinion and expression, including freedom of the press and other media of communication;
c) freedom of peaceful assembly; and
d) freedom of association.
Now, let's compare it to the "First Amendment":
"Congress shall make no law respecting an establishment of religion, or prohibiting the free exercise thereof; or abridging the freedom of speech, or of the press; or the right of the people peaceably to assemble, and to petition the Government for a redress of grievances. "
I suppose the author is right: Canada doesn't enjoy "1st amendment" rights....because the words "1st amendment" do not fall anywhere in the document. Crazy.
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I am with Fern on this. One only needed to watch the God of Coast Mountain backcountry skiing, John Clarke, to know this...he couldn't tele at all, but boy could he move in the mountains. Kick turns. Parallel. Sideslipping. Whatever it took to get him over the next pass. Those are skills really only gained by spending a LOT of time on your skis, regardless of whether it is lift accessed or not.
Having said that, I prefer to be able to link turns in all conditions, and to do that, yup, you are probably going to have to hit the lifts.
But, Fern hit it dead on, I think: backcountry skiing (at least for me) is a hell of a lot more than just yo-yoing or dropping into some sick colouir where turning technique is all-important.
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I don't think that you or anyone else has the right to speak to a situation so far r4emoved from it.
That means the entire US Administration (based in Washington), the US armed forces command for that theatre (based in Quatar?) and YOU (as well as me!) should "stop talking our of our asses'" because we don't "truly understand." Sorry, that approach is impractical, dangerous, and in contravention of your precious 1st amendment rights to free speech.
What if I read the first hand reports from 200 observers, a diplomatic status report by the Coalition Authority, and intelligence reports of all the spooks?...would I then have the right to speak to the situation? Would I truly understand?
What if I worked over there, in one community, doing one job, for 12 months? Spoke to just a handful of Iraqi's who can speak English and are willing to speak openly and fairly to me? Would I then be more informed opinions than the guy reading the reports from all over the country, from a variety of sources and biases?
Hey, it is your choice who you want making decisions over there. A guy getting shot at who sees just one part of the picture, or the guy with access to a shitload of info. It was interesting that Fisk at one point said that he was actually pretty closed off to the rest of the world and other news about Iraq, so admitted that he actually knew less about some stuff than the interviewer who was sitting outside of the country. Anyway, as I said, your choice... I value seeing Telenut's perspective because it is so unique and different than a lot of what is out there, but it is definately not the only perspective, and it is definately not the "truth" (which is unattainable in this situation).
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fortunatly I am not talking out of my ass. you are. I have read some about what telle nut has to say when he is not emotionaly reacting to his friends being killed. yes he is somewhat extreame and sounds more so on line. keep in mind that you are only reading a fraction of this persons thoughts.
I have often wanted to kill some what that has done me harm. yet I never have
I am not sure where I accused anyone of "talking out of their ass", but anyway...
I agree that many people might say to themselves, "I want to kill that person". However, this is quite a different situation to the one Telenut is in: he is heavily armed, moving around in a fairly chaotic country with limited supervision and under an almost non-existent justice system, and where random and "accidental" shootings are common.
Furthermore, although I can understand getting emotional over the loss of life, Telenut was extraordinarly specific in his emotions:
"I for one plan on bringing some pain to some Iraqi's this time around and I do not care really if they suffer for the rest of eternity. Now it's personal. Unfortunately I am not in Fallujah very often."
and...
"Kill a soldier or Marine and you are getting the same reaction dickneck. They want what everyone wants. Revenge. "
THAT is a LOT different that you, living in the US, typing, "I have often wanted to kill some what that has done me harm." Yours is a very general statement, you do not possess the means, and you are in an environment where you would almost certainly get caught if you followed through on your emotions. None of these restraints are present in Telenut's case.
I can understand you feeling protective of your friend. I am not bagging on him though - I understand that he is in an incredibly stressful situation, one which I cannot ever hope to comprehend.
My point is that that is precisely why a nation state, like the US, with its attendant lines of command and accountability, must be the ones making and executing policy in a place like Iraq. With no accountability you have anarchy. And so I am questioning the appropriateness and the risk of a large number of privately paid body guards/mercenaries at large in what is a very unstable state. But that does not mean I am questioning your friend's honour, or motives or sacrifice.
I just don't think he is in a position to be making or executing policy, that is all!! And I certainly don't think he is the only one who can accurately or fairly describe what is going on over there, and how to fix it, as you suggest.
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Did you ever think that maybe they are leveraging their best, most in demand skills? Doing the job they are most qualified to do and can perform better than anyone else in order to provide for their families as well as protect fellow Americans in a dangerous situation?
I agree, but don't equate acting as a body guard with serving in a nation's military who's objective is to build a new state. Body guards react to the immediate situation at hand - protecting their client - while soliders operate under the orders of their government who have a longer term aim of building stability. One is reactive and one is proactive. Doesn't mean you don't need body guards, and kudos to them, but don't make it out like they are acting in the best interests of the US goverments. They are acting in the best interests of THEIR CLIENT (which is exactly how it should be).
Now, of course, the situation is confused considerably when their client is the US government! That I do find a bit weird.
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Wow, I had no idea that market forces had such a big role in military affairs. Thanks for the education. I do have to say, it does sound quite scary. I can understand why this TeleNut fellow sounds like he does - he is in the middle of it - but I sure hope he is answerable and accountable to a chain of command like a regular solider is. His comments about retribution, while understandable, are likely not US policy. They are not US policy because random retribution of the sort he talks about simply breeds a reaction by the other side, which in turn leads to more retribution, and so on (like in Israel, and before that in Northern Ireland).
Foreign policy, like criminal justice, is best developed and steered by those with some objectivity. Telenut may have a unqiue and intense perspective in spades, but if he and his ilk are the ones running the show over there, than the whole place is going to end up endlessly reacting to personal, short-term objectives (retribution, profit, power grabbing, etc.) rather than proactively building something better and longer lasting (peace, stability, etc.).
I suppose if there is a need for body-guards/mercs like Telenut, then thank goodness there are takers for such a tough job, but they should not be seen as the arbriters of peace, or as objective observers with a monopoly on "truth".
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I think the most interesting stat from the CDC is that 8 people died of "overexertion" in 2001. Warning: excerise is dangerous. (cool site, by the way - thanks for the link)
I would tend to agree that 8000 sounds low. Of course, again, whether it is 8K or 120K, it would also be useful to see how many lives are SAVED by the standard of medical care in North America. One only need pick a country which has a weaker medical care system and look at their stats, and I am guessing that their avg life span is shorter, AND ALSO that fewer people are accidently killed by doctors.
The more doctors you have, and the more medical care a population "consumes" the more death-by-doctor will occur, no? However, on the flipside, you will probably live longer, on average. Trade off...longer life, but more likely of being accidently killed by a doctor's fuck up.
Guns, on the other hand, may not have the same relationship. The more guns you have, the more deaths you will get. Duh. But again, does it hold true, as it does with doctors, that the more guns you have, the safer/healthier you will be?
Gun nuts, over to you...
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That are all used for hunting. Which is what most guns in Canada are owned for.
Sorry, I still don't see how these stats are at all related to the US where there is significantly higher gun ownership and astronomically higher gun mortality.
As I said, I was interested in seeing Rod's stats more objectively disclosed, which would include comparing intentional deaths due to doctors and guns (much like the Alberta guy did, but I think the US stats would look MUCH different). Of course, since the whole analogy is quite silly (that guns are safer than doctors), it would be fairest to then include the # of lives SAVED by doctors and guns!
Anyway, I am aware that discussing gun rights on this board, and with yanks in general is a fools errand, so whatever...
It's been a slice.
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Hey Hommie... didya read the whole thing?
17 homicides involving firearms
56 total homicides
Yo hommie...ya, I did. But I was referring to Rod's stats at the top of the thread. The 17 homicides stats is for Alberta, which as I suggested, is a VERY safe province and not appropriate for extrapolation to the rest of the continent.
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This would more accurately be referred to as, "Alberta Gun-advocate's Take On It". The fact that he is a doctor seems kind of irrelevant since he is using publicly available research to make his case. He is not a researcher, and does not claim to have extensively researched this issue.
Alberta is generally pro-gun, and also a very very safe province - there is little crime, with or without guns, so extrapolating the stats he is talking about to the rest of Canada, much less the US, is a bit misleading.
Rod's numbers cunningly quoted just accidental gun deaths. What about intentional gun deaths (murder and suicide)? Then compare that number with the # of intentional deaths caused by doctors (murder and assisted suicide).
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Hardly freedom. We have to pay a special tax on blank recording media to compensate artists for their loss to copyright violators. The judge's ruling is based largely on this tax: essentially, since the recording industry is making a shitload off this tax as "compensation", the judge feels that they are getting what they asked for and that they should then just fuck the hell off when it comes to invading the privacy of ISP users to obtain evidence of downloading (which is what the case is actually about...the RIAA is asking for a court order to ISPs to release info about downloaders). The recording industry is essentially getting fucked by their own little shitty deal they made with the gov't years ago on this issue. Losers.
"The regulators cited a long-standing rule in Canada, in which most copying for personal use was allowed. To repay artists and record labels for revenues lost by this activity, the government imposes a fee on blank tapes, CDs and even hard-disk-based MP3 players such as Apple's iPod, and distributes those revenues to copyright holders."
This all means, BTW, that using MS Windows on more than one computer is still illegal here. But hey, so is pot, but that doesn't stop a lot of people from smoking it.
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Dryad told me that Nepal is 15 minutes off from the time zone in which it belongs.
We have our own very little Nepal in North America on that score: Newfoundland is 30 minutes ahead of the rest of the east coast.
And about 50 years behind culturally, economically, etc. (which I actually think is a good thing). Doesn't have any 8000m peaks tho...
Rate the 5.9!
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
I seem to remember reading somewhere or other (maybe here) a more realistic ordering of grades, that went something like this (based on my memory, and personal experience up to easy 11s), from easier to harder:
5.4 to 5.8
5.10a
5.9
5.8+
5.10b
5.9+
5.11a
5.10c
5.8 squeeze
5.10d
5.11b
5.10+
5.9 ow
5.12a
5.11c
5.11d
5.10 ow
5.12b
5.11+
5.12c
and so on...
up to the max: Rockies VI 5.9 A2
Other interpretations of our beloved YDS?