I was on a climb of Shuksan this past spring when the gully up the summit pyramid was filled with 45 to 50 degree snow/ice. Of nine climbers, 6 decided to climb the gully roped up, placing pickets along the way, creating a kind of half-assed running belay. Took these 6 climber nearly an hour to ascent the gully--I climbed the gully solo in 20 min. In my opinion, if someone on one of the roped teams had fallen, the pickets wouldn't have done shit and all on the rope would have suffered serious injuries. Going solo, not only did I not risk others' health, I was able to keep to a minimum the time I exposed myself to rock/ice fall in the gully.
As far as gear, I brought with me two screws, a picket, a few stoppers and cams, and a rope--just in case I came upon a place where I didn't feel comfortable climbing on and maybe didn't want to try and downclimb. The gear I brought with me was minimal and didn't add much weight.
[ 12-13-2001: Message edited by: E. Hobbs ]
[ 12-13-2001: Message edited by: E. Hobbs ]