Crack
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Posts posted by Crack
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That was probably us (Anastacia was wondering where you were KK). We climbed the central flow, finding varied conditions for ice quality and loads more snow than I've ever seen back there. "This ain't Montana" went through my head more than once...
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I'll delete this post once they're gone.
Danka!
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Climbed this last week, inspired by this TR...as advertised,it had great rock, great climbing and plenty of pine needles. We (I) was having difficulty staying enroute so by the third pitch decided to just go wherever. From time to time we recognized features from both routes and figure we climbed a line somehwere in between them. The grade stayed consistent and every pitch seemed to get better than the previous one -though the last pitch was an easy scramble. We backed up an old yellow sling for a short descent gully rappel.
We schwacked in and out from an old road leaving the TH right away (before the bridge) -it took about an hour or so and was fairly simple and easy as far as bushwacking and approaches go.
Wondering if we missed a better trail that locals use -we did find a cairn going in and coming out marking where to leave the road, but nothing else. Hard to imagine it doesn't get more traffic.
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For some scrappy climbs on blocky rock or with bushes involved I like to carry a 48" sling or maybe even two sometimes.
I carry them over the shoulder, in a configuration that I can best describe as that you would produce if you held one end of the sling at your waist, passed the other end of the sling (both strands), over a shoulder, and then brought it back around the other side and back to your waist and clip it end-to-end.
The result is that the sling is hung over one shoulder just as if you threw a 24" sling over your shoulder but it is two strands and you can deploy it by unclipping the 'biner and pulling it off your shoulder without having to take it over your head or otherwise sort it out from whatever else you have on yours shoulders like a rack or camera strap or whatever.
About two minutes in -->
A review of (often) wasting biners -->
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second PM sent, no response to my first.
Same here!
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Fred does get out -but the Doc?!
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Long day at the office -please don't ban this nutjob again...too much entertainment during the week.
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They just picked up a back up to the back up catcher for starters -woo hoo!
I actually think they've got some great young talent that they need to develop, rather than to clean house and start fresh or to shape the team around one "new" big name player (P. Fielder).
Two names that wouldn't be a (total) shocker to see on their 40 man roster come spring for their veteran presence would be Bedard and/or Moyer.
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That "gym" in the Wenatchee airport had some nice folk runnin' the show, but man was it tiny. Hard to imagine they had the resources to justify memebership/repeat customers...
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Two more options:
1) Make your own -surf around online, Dave Burdick/Alpine Dave(?) has a fine "how to" on his site, or at least did years ago...
2) Climbing gyms will sometimes cycle through their incredible surplus, allowing you purchase of the old and dirty for cheap. I've known two (local) gyms to do this.
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How'd you like Saudi?
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Who makes good supergaiters now? It appears OR no longer does.
Don't know if they're "good" -but Mountain Tools still has them. A long time fan, I've used them made by Black Diamond, Wild Country and La Sportiva...
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I am NOT a gym rat, but every once in a looong while...
*It's a nice (new) place with a mellow feel (at least on a Monday afternoon): not to crowded or pretentious feeling; cheers to the the recent rise in "local" indoor wall space which helps to keep the traffic down.
*The walls are coated/lined(?) with some grippy plastic stuff which is eons past slippery plywood painted over with a sand mix -again, I am probably way behind the times in regards to reporting on the norm in climbing wall texure. Anyways, it's nice!
*The routes are defined by the color of the holds -no tape. Nice!
*There's a sweet "perfect hands" crack (a little thin at the start) on one of the walls near the back -which with "the touch of a button" quietly tilts back at 105 degrees with the use of hydraulics. Pretty neat.
*A seperate area designated for little kids to climb on and host birthday parties, etc. Thoughtful.
*A "decent" kaiten sushi joint across the street -I'm a bit of a sushi snob, but it's really like quite OK man...
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Those Master cams are soOOo sexy yes, but the kevlar trigger cable BLOWS. A few years ago after they first hit the market, I ran into someone who was an employee at some reputable Colorado based climbing/skiing company who repairs gear nationwide (Neptune Mountaineering?). She said they replaced the triggers on Master cams more than they fixed any other piece of gear, camping and skiing included.
I had a couple on my rack in the smallest sizes, before the trigger cable broke on my moderately used blue one and then got thrashed on the removal.
I still like them, or really want to like them, but they are third to what I prefer in the "regular" Metolius and ALIENS for the small sizes.
I've never liked the action of the C3s, but swear on C4s past the .5 size.
And debating weight on them tiny cams...really?
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Acopas DO take a while to break in, but I find them to be a great shoe...super comfortable with a cushy tongue:
-The Legends have a MEGA-thick sole, and are sized super small...
-The soles of the JBs aren't as thick and the sizing is a *little* more generous. The rubber on the JBs is very sticky, but really soft; mine are quickly shredding on granite and I'll probably resole them (Cascade Cobbler in Mazama) with Stealth or something else...
-Wilson's Eastside Sports in Bishop has had both pairs on sale for almost two years now -dirt cheap!
-Kaukulators are the best high top ever made, and you can find them online every now and then...
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Earlier this week I scored a pair of perfectly fitting Kauks in perfect condition for ten bucks off this site. Dayum!
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PM sent!!
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Hmmm -maybe. Let me think about it some...
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What a rockin' debut!
Won't help you against the Phightin' Phils.Yankees, Red Sox, Rays, Angels, Rangers, Phillies...next!
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Empty unlocked car = no broken glass...someone I know was one of the folks who were hit this past Memorial Day weekend. I remember this being an issue a few years back, and eventually for a short stretch the fuzz started to make routine drop ins to the parking lot.
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Assuming that you guyz are after comfort and quality over crankin', +10 for Cathedral. It's an actual peak, has an airy summit, and sports a pain free and brainless approach and descent. Plus, it's got plenty of crack vs. runout slab/chimney. Toss in the 5.4 on the Eichorn for a stellar day out...the one and only issue is the overcrowding -so be first, or last. Even with the variety of starts you'll most likely end up bottlenecking near the top.
Fairview is another favorite moderate I'd highly recommend if you could squeeze in another -the 5.9 is right off the ground, short and easy to protect. The rest of the crack climbing is consistently mellow, and you couldn't ask for a shorter approach.
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A big fan of the gear sling, here are some things that I do which help:
*a single biner at the front of my rack (on the gear sling) clipped to one of the gear loops on my harness really helps with the whole rack swinging all over the place dealio, and
*to streamline the rack when I have doubles (or more), I clip the first "set" directly onto the gear sling (typically all of my pro/cams have their own biner), and then clip the doubles (and triples) to the biners of the same sized pieces. It does make the rack a little longer (the length of a biner), but it keeps the rack from getting ridiculously "fat".
*I prefer to climb trad, and rarely have more than a couple of quick draws (on my harness)...I'll wear slings over my other shoulder as mentioned earlier, but with only one biner on each. I usually have a couple of loose biners on my (somewhat) empty harness just in case I need to use two biners for a sling, which isn't often.
*Another thing that I like about using a gear sling besides the already mentioned and obvious, is it's nice to be able to instantly dump the weight at the belay!
[TR] RR, Zion, Moab - A Sandstone Extravaganza 10/12/2013
in The rest of the US and International.
Posted
God...DAMN!!
Your TRs fucking rock -always.
Thank you!