Kathy

Rope Up almost ended in tragedy when 2 drunk, idiots drank beer out of the settling jug instead of glasses. Thanks to the efforts of the, “health nazi,” the crisis was avoided. I caught up with the, “health nazi,” later in the evening; he told me that he would be getting a new merit badge to pin on his shirt. According to him, “I’m an asshole and a tweaker, but I’ve got more merit badges than anyone else.”

There is a photo of Arizona on the CC homepage by Phil Gleason. Is the THE Phil Gleason immortalized in Vertical World of Yosemite taking a ripper on 10.96?

SOMEBODY IS REALLY MAD CAUSE THEY DIDN'T GET TO SCREW ENOUGH WIDOWS, CHILDREN, AND POOR PEOPLE OUT OF THEIR DESERVED INSURANCE MONEY. NOW THEY HAVE TO BE MEAN TO WOMEN AND CRAZY PEOPLE. [ 06-17-2002, 04:35 PM: Message edited by: Kathy ]

This is the latest news from the Alki Pub Club! A noted CC gadfly made the pronouncement that all climbs with bolts are SPORT CLIMBS! I didn't feel too sporty when I was talking fifty footers on Hall of Mirrors, I guess I was just ahead of my time. Am I advant garde', or is this gadfly just full of shit?

Matt The D/d ratio of 10:1, resulting in a spacing of 2 3/4" is a minimum. I just can't remember the spacing on a Fixe anchor, but it seems that it would have to be more. This ratio is a well accepted standard in concrete anchors the world over, from good old Rawl USA to Euro Hilti. I am sure Fixe was aware of this standard. Most fastener stores will give you a Rawl or Hilti catalog, and they have all sorts of techical information in the back. I am not an engineer, but I know alot about fasteners. Concrete anchors are made to have the nut removed several times, and the appliance replaced. The stress they are under is constant, and in fact they are made to attach machinary such as fans, which due to their vibrations are much more stressfull. I don't worry about the American triangle. In a belay system, one can normallly equalize, thence negate, the increased moments due to leverage. In a rap, the increased leverage really shouldn't matter. If you are worried about increasing the force on a bolt from say 100# to 200# ( 200lb load divided by two bolts, versus 200lb load doubled by leverage divided by two bolts) then the anchors are so far outside of their safety factor something is seriously wrong. Chain padded up with washers so someone could avoid buying hangers are stupid. C

At the pub Club I will show my ample rack to Fred. Maybe I will get to see some of his ancient but still serviceable ironmongrey. I haven't seen Fred since '87, atop the Sisters. We did the Dog Route as a way to stay in shape back then.

Hi guys! I sometimes worry about those new fangled Fixe anchors, and their ilk. Most manufacturers recommend a D/d ratio of 10:1. This means that the center to center spacing of bolts should be ten times their diameter. For a 3/8" bolt the centers should be 2 3/4" apart. Does a Fixe anchor conform to this? I can't find any of my concrete anchor catalogs, so I may have some of the ratios messed up. Depth of emplacement should also play a factor. These ratios are based on a cone of failure analagous to the cone of percussion. MattPAbout the removal and replacement of the nut on a wedge anchor weakening the origal placement by a factor of 50%. Bullshit, no thruth to it. Wrong I sure know alot lot of shit for a girl.C

I understand that Jimmy is almost done building his extended famlies new house. As an American, I demand that the next Pub Club is at Jim and Marlenes house. We can all get drunk, and Rat can show Caveman how to Puke, and not stop drinking.

Dan, I think length is a personal matter, and is dependent on depth of insertion. In your case diameter is highly important, so as to insure the fit is properly snug

Excellent questions Bronco, I think fiberglass canopies and pallet would make a wonderfull fire, and the soot would be just fab. Just make sure that the fire is built close to Dan Larsons car. Real guns are even better than potato guns, although Kit Lewis may be better able to answer this question. We have always chosen to fight amoung ourselves, but I think fighting other people would be fun. Just be sure to sucker punch anyone named Dan "just in case". We have always gone for carcass displays in clear obvious view. It is important to annoy as many people as possible. You are a fine American, and an even finer Monroeian. Whats with all the Monroe High Schoolers wearing shirts that say "Monroe Humpers". I'm serious, some of them little Humpers sure are cute.

Hey Youngins, Me, Rat, Joe, Dean, and el Ski Thing are all getting older, and it is up to you to do the cool Index shit like we used to do. We are willing to mentor you in the fine arts of: Burning shit up (including tires, spray cans, and dishes) Shooting shit with our potato gun ( who can ever forget Rat hitting the belay slings on Princely Ambitions from the RR tracks!) Puking green shit in the parking lot Getting real drunk and yelling "fall, fall, I hope you fucking fall" Spending all day fighting each other in the parking lot and Private Idaho And of course - the vertical installation sundry deceased farm animals. This kind of behavior has gone on at Index for many years but recently it has been lacking. One of the most famous climbers in Washington helped grease City Park. [side note] Everyone who hates spray is always bitching about how we are going to drive off Cascade ledgends and yet one of them greased City Park [side note] We just want to help the next generation carry on some fine traditions. [ 12-14-2001: Message edited by: Kathy ]

Hey Dwayner, Was you with Lepeska?

I'm sorry, but your "Rock Cop" thread got my panties all in a bunch, and I told Daryl what for. I guess I was so mad I didn't watch my language, and the thread got yanked. Why don't you start a new similar thread. You are a God, and I worship you! K

Oh Cavey your such a flirt.

I think its real sad when modern internet climbers go online to find partners for a trip to Alaska, and they end up jumping head over heels when a woman responds to them. Thanks for your nice personal messages, but you boys should check out user profiles before you respond. Dave and I don't climb any more. If you knew any climbing history you would be able to figure it out. Have fun chasing the girls at 14,000' camp. Kathy