faust

Movie quote: Hots Shots? I think . . .

Hey guys, thanks again for the advice. Had a great drive, but didn't get to stop much for climbing. Squamish was awesome, my first trip and I wish I could go back, in fact that whole road through to Lilloet is great. Camped at Marble Canyon but didn't didn't have the North BC book and had no time for exploring. The basalt bouldering at Kluane Lake was fun, but I didn't find the particular rock mentioned. Lots of pretty stuff between Vancouver and Alaska (and lots of flat boring shit too) Already found nice granite in Alaska! Hatcher's Pass is spectacular, can't wait to go back for some cragging :-) Take it easy . . .

thanks for the tips, sounds like those would make good breaks. now i just have to hope for the weather . . .

Hey, just about to head up the Alaskan Highway, and thought I'd ask for recommendations for places to stop along to the way for some climbing. We will stop in Squamish if the rock is dry enough. Anything worth trying out north of there?

Here's a story for you poor souls stuck in an office or in class today: I was lucky to have the day off from classes and thus teamed up with the Indomitable Ms. Gray for an exhilirating day of hard-core rock climbing at the Matterhorn-esque summit of Spire Rock. For those who may be uninformed, Spire Rock is a truly spectacular peak located in beautiful South Tacoma. Though not sure of its geologic origins, I assume it is a volcanic remnant of some sort, or perhaps a massive glacial erratic. Upon arriving at the foot of the wall, we decided to first attempt the heinous off-width near the south-west corner. Due to poor protection and loose rock, I decided to set up a top rope via the spooky 4th class scramble on the North Face. The Irrepressible Ms. Gray offered a belay, and I surprised myself by succeeding on this classic route on my first try!!! It was going to be an 'on' day for me, I could tell already. After I rapped the route, my partner, the Exceptional Ms. Gray, roped up and gave it a try. After several burns on the begining crux moves, she managed to jam herself into the wide crack and flailed admirably to the summit. After my bold ascent, I was feeling unstoppable, so I jumped on the infamous Red X Traverse. I have to admit, my heart was in my throat the entire time, but I managed a truly impressive free solo on the route. This may be a first ascent, I will have to check on that. Nearly spent, the World-Famous Ms. Gray and I cooled down bouldering near the base of the massive face, trading burns on the nearly-impossible Crisco Rock. Does anybody know the grade on this bouldering problem? V13 or so? Anyway, we failed here but that could hardly dampen our enthusiasm for a glorious outing in the climber's paradise of Parkland. Yes, it was a bold day at Spire Rock, truly one I will tell my grandchildren about. (If I live to have grandchildren, what with this dangerous game of rock climbing.) I've got big plans for the weekend, so tune in next week for a trip report of our adventure to the remote crags of Fossil Rock and our red point attempts of the neo-classic death routes on Boyal Bobbins Wall. -Matt

I'm not sure where you're headed in Alaska, it's a big place . . . but if you're going to spend any time on the Kenai Peninsula I could definately recomend some fun trips. An ice axe and crampons will get you onto a lot of beautiful peaks. If you'll be around that area, check out my webpage, I've been trying to compile route information. http://www.plu.edu/~faustme Have a good time, man, I miss it a lot.

I've never been there but I read about it in Beckey's brown book. He describes four trad routes from the 60's, 5.2 - 5.6. Meager protection (no cracks, just slinging knobs) so I guess it wouldn't be surprising if somebody bolted some routes on it. -matt

Sorry if this is too far off topic, I thought somebody here might have some perspective on this: What's the situation in Joshua Tree as far as climber's and park ranger's attitudes toward each other? Is it similar to other areas (ie. Yosemite) where there can be open hostility? I'm considering applying for a winter seasonal job done there but I don't want to get involved with any conflict of interest. [ 04-11-2002: Message edited by: faust ]

Going camping in Leavenworth with some buddies, hopefully do some climbing saturday morning in Icicle Creek or Peshastin. maybe I'll see somebody there . . . I'll be wearing a 'High on Weed, California' t-shirt :-) take it easy

Kenai Mountains, in south-central AK, mainly because I miss being home, but they are also often overlooked. Peaks and glaciers are everywhere, dramatic half-a-day walkups are plentiful, challenging longer expeditions are easy to plan, unclimbed technical snow and ice routes, year round tele skiing, etc. Plus the Harding Icefield. Plus the wildlife. Plus the fjords. Not to mention in a decade of climbing there I never ran into another climbing party in the backcountry.

while in the rimrock lake area on a field camp class this summer, i ran into a place that may have some potential. back on the logging roads there's a massive cliff of welded tuff where hundreds of boulders have fallen off. most are small, but in a few short minutes i spotted several that i think (not a boulderer) would yield interesting problems. there's probably tons more there. has anybody else seen this area?

christ, it's a small ghetto isn't it . . . yungaburra, i know who you are but i don't have a friend named dan . . . mystic nacho, are you dan? i don't know you . . . trask . . . i don't understand what you're saying. hamster? finland?

yeah, i had kind of had hopes for fossil rock as it hadn't rained for a week or so, but the forecast turned bad and it just started raining here minutes ago actually friday looks like it might be alright, but i can only go there on the weekends anymore as i have already recieved my first warning from weyerhauser i just kind of wanted to get my name out there to other people desperate to go climbing who don't mind a little cold and wet. anytime you want to go, email me, i'm a slacker college student who doesn't mind missing class from time to time. take it easy,matt

my old partner has become competely distracted by a new girlfriend and we never get out anymore. i've seen a lot of talk about fossil and other south side climbing lately, and thought i'd put feelers out for anybody who wouldn't mind me tagging along. i'm a moderate sport climber, i'd like to move into trad when i can afford it. i have a good amount of sport gear, but no car (would chip in for gas of course.) let's hit the rock, i'm getting desperate! take it easy,faust

Hey! I'm homesick for Seward, Alaska, so I've started a webpage about climbing on the Kenai Penninsula. It has some bare bones content right now, I'd like it to provide plenty of beta and recommended routes, from myself and any one else who would like to contribute. If you're planning on visiting the area, or are there right now, or have been there in the past, check it out. -Matt http://www.plu.edu/~faustme