flyingkiwi1
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Posts posted by flyingkiwi1
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Here's a photo I took from the N. Ride on 1 Sept. Overexposed, but maybe it'll help.
fk
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Climb: Stuart-N. Ridge
Date of Climb: 9/1/2005
Trip Report:
Having redpointed the Tooth separately, Kimmo and I decided to team up for an outing on the North Ridge of Mt. Stuart.
(1) In a spasm of preparative zeal, Kimmo reads the route description in the Teanaway River Road parking lot.
(2) Dawn at Ingalls Lake
(3) Stuart Glacier. We crossed high; the glacier got really icy and steep near the little spine of rock in the middle of the photo. It might be safer and faster to start lower and do an an ascending traverse here.
(4) Cruising the ridge
(5) Chillin (literally) at the Gendarme. Kimmo led the layback pitch + the traverse on our 80' rope; this meant that we simuled some of it, but that was fine. I had plenty of rope to reach a belay ledge when I led the wide pitch.
(6) Autoflossing on the summit
(7) Stuart from Long's Pass
Gear Notes:
We were jazzed on our 80' rope.
We used the maroon friend on both the Gendarme pitches. I also placed a purple (big) Metolius on the wide pitch. (The well-known stuck #4 camalot still abides therein.)
Other than that, we mostly slung horns and placed the occasional nut.
Approach Notes:
See our beta on the Stuart Glacier.
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I'm driving from Seattle to meet some folks in the Bugaboos, leaving sometime in the next couple of days. If you're looking for a ride that way, drop me a line. Don't know exactly when or by what route I'll be coming back.
-- Ian
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sorry, sis, my bad.
thx for all the kudos, public and private, on perhaps the slowest redpoint in index history. i'm going to canada and won't be back for a while. yall be nice to each other now.
best, i
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Index Favor
in Spray
I think the parties in this conflict both have valid points: (1) Those who wanted to do their thing (climb) and would rather inacan had done his thing when nobody was there (or not at all) and (2) Inacan, who wanted to do his thing (scrub a climb he wanted to climb). Conflict can be a bummer. At least this forum provides an opportunity to get some of the issues on the table without actual bloodshed.
On the topic of cliff vegetation, I found the photos and discussion in the new Squamish guidebook of the Chief's progressive forestation over the past century interesting. If you haven't seen em, check em out. You may be surprised.
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By the time our minds zoomed out from pinkpoint mode
twist
twist
Bro, I would move to Phoenix before I'd attempt to pinkpoint Sloe Children. I was downclimbing, cleaning gear as I went. Which is why I was standing on the ill-fated bottle and breaking it's top.
I did, however, redpoint Sloe Children today. It took me seven attempts over eight years, but none of them were pink.
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I was Gary's partner yesterday. When we turned up at the base of Godzilla, it was immediately obvious that something bizarre was going on; dirt, moss, and fresh rock everywhere. Almost immediately the Gardener showed, in a bad mood, having just tangled, apparently, with Rudy and Ben. He started to go off about how somebody's got to clean these routes (I think Gary paraphrased his position accurately earlier in the thread). I said, fine, but I drove all the way out here to get on Sloe Children. I guess I was polite. In any case, as Gary said, he held off further gardening until both of us were at the City Park ledge.
I don't think the result would've been any better if I'd said, effin eh, you better effin get your ass off this cliff before I throw it off. I agree that gardening at Lower Town is better left for wet winter weekdays. I hope the Gardener got that message. As to who got the message across to him better, us or yall, we'll never know. And it's not like I don't have a temper. But it's my experience that if I can communicate without losing it, the results are more to my liking.
Rudy, the water bottle thing was my fault. I had effed up the start of the Children and downclimbed to the anchor to start over, stepping on the bottle in the process. It was a completely weird situation, but we should've yelled, and, as I said to your other buddy when we got down, I'm sorry.
-- Ian
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I dunno. I started up Tatoosh once, but couldn't figure out how to protect the initial flare safely, so I bailed. Then, more recently, I TRed as much of Tatoosh as made sense from the Thin Fingers anchors. I thought the climbing was awesome. The initial flare, which I had tried unsuccessfully to imagine climbing from the inside, turned out to be a killer layback on the outside. Sadly, for me, the last move or two is probably too dicey for me to solo, which I think is pretty much what you'd have to do. Although you could bypass that flare. But that would kinda feel like cheating to me.
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Got a partner for Tuesday, thanks.
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My weekday partners can't go this week, and I want to redpoint Slow Children before I forget my fat-finger beta. Can drive, and lead the approaches, or not. PM me pls.
Ian
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I managed to blow the wire on a #2 stopper a few years ago. We had meandered off up some old aid route towards the top of Beacon, reached a section with some hard moves protected by what I thought was a bomber placement. It was a bomber placement. Sadly, I forgot about metal fatigue. I think the wire blew on my third try at the sequence; the first two falls had been less than 10'. The last one was significantly longer. I called BD (not really to complain, just to tell them what had happened) and they sent me a new nut.
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Cool, thanks. I've never climbed up Chair. Would you recommend reading up on the up-routes I'd be choosing from to downclimb it, or can a reasonable 5.8 crack soloer just figure it out up there?
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Has anyone ever done this? Seems like I've seen a TR but I can't find it.
fk
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It's actually gneiss (my opinion).
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Come on y'all; Someone's been up there. Couloir in decent shape? Help a newbie out here yo.
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glasskowkiss, For f*ck's sake, man, get over yourself. 5.7, 5.9, who cares? Index grades are harder than Squamish grades. This is news to you? Gimme a break.
The Ultimate Everything is an enjoyable moderate climb, a good day out on sweet granite. You know what I remember about the moderate stuff? I remember a really cool dike that kind of reminded me of the first pitch of Merci Me. I have no idea whether it was rated 5.7, like the pitch of which it reminded me, or 5.8, or 5.9, or... But I'm glad some guys took the time to bolt it so others could climb it.
So, glasskowkiss, you burly guy, tell me, were you so pissed of by the time you got to the pitch with the optional offwidths that you climbed them instead of the 5.8 crack?
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Marpha, Nepal
Red Gap Pass, Glacier National Park, Montana
Tanjung An Bay, Lombok, Indonesia
3 pitches up any climb at Index
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Does anyone have accurate splits for the following (assume speed limit +5-10):
Seattle to SLC
City of Rocks to SLC
SLC to Indian Creek
I'm trying to figure out whether to stop in the City or in SLC. Also, is it likely to be snowing in the City this early?
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This is for a Canadian climber named Tennessee or anyone who knows him... I gave you some incorrect beta regarding rapping off Peasant's Route on the Grand Wall yesterday. I said you could get to the Exasperator anchor with two 60m ropes from the top of the 5th pitch of Peasant's, but that's not right; it's from the top of the 4th pitch that two 60s gets you to that anchor. The 5th pitch is short, and we did it with one of our ropes, leaving the other at the top of the 4th pitch. We used the one rope to rap from the top of the 5th back to the top of the 4th, then rapped with two down to Exasperator, and then with two again to the ground.
Sorry - I spaced.
-- Ian
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Volksfront is based out of Darrington, I believe.
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Indeed, I did climb there, but you'll find more than I can tell you at www.cubaclimbing.com. The rock that I climbed, which was all in the Vinales area a couple hours by bus west of La Habana, was solid and surprisingly amenable to crack climbing techniques - fingers, hands, and so on. Having said that, it is limestone, so as you might expect it has some inherent portablity, and it's mostly pockets. I myself preferred the rock to that of either Ton Sai or Portrero Chico.
There are a few routes in the 5.7-10a range, but for the most part the climbing starts at solid 10b and ends beyond the grade at which my opinion means anything (10c). No, seriously, I climbed a 12a that I'd rate on a par with any 12a I've ever climbed; it's called Captain Hook, and it's in a cave above a salsa bar in a place called Palanque, not far from Vinales. The crux is consecutive hamstring-crunching heel hooks. The first time on it my right heel came out of my right Cobra and I was left hanging there a ways above the last bolt I'd clipped with one shoe on. It was amusing for everyone.
For sure, there are routes that are confirmed at harder - much harder - grades. But if you're like me and enjoy trying to onsight 5.11s, I think you'll be pretty happy in Vinales.
Although, honestly and without intent to judge or insinuate anything or anyone, the quality of the time I had climbing in Cuba was more a function of the extent to which I enjoyed the company of the Cubans with whom I climbed than it was a function of much having to do with the rock.
Maybe I'll pop some slides up when I get around to developing them. In the meantime, I really don't want to offend anyone for whom the existence of Cuba its present form raises issues. If you want to go, I think you'll have fun. If you don't want to go, don't go.
-- Ian
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"I disapprove of what you say, but i will defend to the death your right of saying it" - Voltaire
I thought B. Franklin said the above, but I was wrong. Whatever. Point taken, and I quote Voltaire as an example to illustrate same. But I really didn't mean to initiate a discussion of the relative merits of political-economic systems, either. That would be a different forum on a different site, at least.
All I meant to say was, I really had a good time in this place, Cuba. I liked the climbing there a lot. If I offended anyone by unconsciously dropping a spin on my post, well, I guess that might have been inappopriate, and I apologize.
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What the hell? There's no forum for Cuba trip reports. This is the all-time winter destination for those of us who seek sun, sand, limestone, and just about everything else you can imagine except advertising (think billboards with slogans of the revolution like somos lo misma - we are all the same - instead).
Seriously, I just returned from three weeks in Cuba, and it was my alltime favorite trip, climbing or otherwise. email me for more detailed info.
-- Ian
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Does anyone know if dogs (the canine, not the human kind) are allowed at the Chief campground?
Thanks -- Ian
Upper ice cliff glacier on Stuart?
in Alpine Lakes
Posted
De nada. Taken three weeks ago on Thursday. Bon chance!