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Rafael_H

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Posts posted by Rafael_H

  1. Hey, dear CC buddies, so "Climbing" and "R&I" are not worthy. Are there any climbing magazines worth reading?

    I agree, any of Florine's so called accomplishments are crap and boring. And that Twight dude is just too arrogant and unsafe. I'd much rather read TR's on CC about scrambling up the West Ridge of Forbidden but the problem is there are no cool pictures on CC. See, if every TR was accompanied by a nice shot, I'd definitely cancel my subscriptions too...

  2. quote:

    Originally posted by LUCKY:

    ...

    But Lucky, you see, there are all those beginner bumblys, bird watchers, hikers, shiny SUV owners there. It's just too clean and pretty and, yak, they sell trendy gimmicks there. It doesn't have the most advanced gear and the best in their fields as employees that can give instant beta and spend their nights studying all the pieces of equipment there are in the store. I just found out that nobody in the climbing dept climbs M10, outrageous, they don't deserve that $8/hour!!! The return policy is such a disgusting rule that every reasonable climber should be picketing at the store demanding to abolish it. How can you even think of shopping there?

  3. Price just reduced - $280 !

    Barrabes sells a different, I think worse, version for $125.

    Here you get 2 x $100 for tools plus

    2 x $30 for extra picks + $30 for the Mixed Hook plus Adzes and a bonus 'biner.

    Nobody will sell the extras for less if at all. Extra SM Saf-Lock leash included.

     

  4. At Home De-Pot i saw an assortment of wire cables and the strength posted on the cable the same size as on nuts is 125 pounds! What da hell?!!! It was not a typo either as a wire as thick as my pinky was 850 lbs. Then the same evening I came acrossa book that said "to safely lift a 16 ton object you need a cable 2 inches in diameter".

    Something's wrong. Can anybody explain, please?

    Thank you.

  5. quote:

    Originally posted by Stefan:

    Would I take rope if it was fixed to large rock wall? No. Why? Becuase it is traditionally found that someone is probably using it as fixed line completing a route. Would I take a fixed line in the Cascades and no one around on a moderate route? Once again, I will say yes, because in the Cascades it is traditional that no one leaves stuff behind--coming across a rope hanging there on a route in the Cascades is highly unusual.

    Mattski if you are a guide, then you definitely have pencil and paper to leave a note--it is part of your first aid kit. This discussion would never happen in the Alps. If you leave anything behind, you will never see it again--wether you are a guide or not.

    Well, Stefan, 2 years ago I rapped down Breakfast of Champions at dusk and the ropes got stuck. We were late for Greg's party so left the ropes, got up very early in the morning and with pounding hearts rushed to the ropes and got them. Now what if you were there just as we were approaching? Would you be fighting for the "just" ownership of the ropes? What if I met you coming down with my ropes? 5 mintes later? Is it any different from passing by and not helping: "you screwed up, not me"?

    Alps don't matter, it's a matter of personal ethics. As you can see everybody's assumptions were wrong in Matt's case and he was around.

    This is a tough question, a rusty cam, scratched nut stuck on the third pitch are different from a pair of shoes at the base of a crag and I am really just against that cowboy attitude towards "booty" exhibited by far too many people I know.

  6. Just a bit more.

    -Where does one get 5/16 buttonheads, HW store? Will just a regular stainless steel bolt do? Should one trust such a buttonhead when encountered (I haven't so far)?

    -Has sanybody used those removable bolts that

    look like Lowe Balls?

    -Is it still bad if the 1/4" is stainless and has a hanger?

     

    How should one bolt those weird and insecure handcracks: every 2 or 3 feet?

    "Disclaimer": The likelihood of me installing any bolts is very-very low. Yet I consider it foolish to be unaware of this option and its proper use.

  7. Almost lost my sun-glasses at the base of Cathedral this June, ran back and got them. It was then when I changed my mind on booty. My friend who is very good and sharp and loves booty almost left his $100 glasses, good thing I noticed.

    I don't criticize Stefan, myself went to get the cam from Tooth, almost cleaned a bunch of gear on Forbidden (didn't want to delay the party though), but think it is more honorable to return the booty, if possible of course. I lost a quick draw in L-worth myself for the first time and would really appreciate to get it back.

  8. quote:

    Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

    ...

    Oh and where can I get a non Smoot guidebook?

    ...

    [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 08-31-2001).]

    I have a thin guidebook I got from Jim Nelson, you can borrow. Never made it there though.

  9. quote:

    Originally posted by Retrosaurus:

    For emergency bailing:

    ...

    4) If you've got a pencil dick it should easily fit into a 1/4" hole. And if you need help keeping it up, just think of Christian Griffith in Danskins.

    That's more fit for belay anchors. Also gotta be able to concentrate really well!

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