AOC

I've been up both ways late season and the Sahale Arm approach is surely your best bet for soloing. Last year, at least, the Quien Sabe was quite broken up in August, while the Sahale had just one easily negotiated crack.

A Canadian climber died on Saturday 2/23/02 when the ice collapsed on Positive Thinking, a route on Poke-O-Moonshine in the Adirondacks. Here are some links to the story in the Plattsburgh, N.Y. press. http://www.pressrepublican.com/Archive/2002/02_2002/022320021.htm http://www.pressrepublican.com/Archive/2002/02_2002/022420029.htm

I am an (upstate) New Yorker planning a climb of Glacier Peak in early August. I'm comfortable on steep snow and ice, having climbed extensively in New Hampshire, California and, less frequently, in the Cascades. Because I will be soloing, I'm looking to avoid setting foot on even largely uncrevassed glaciers to the extent reasonably possible. From the Beckey guide, it looks like the Frostbite Ridge route might involve minimal glacier travel at this time of year. Is this right? Any information on the route, or other suggestions for the peak would be greatly appreciated.