Fat_Kid

I'll step up to the cardboard Thinking Bon Jovi Woke up in the Mornin And chopped some Minnie bolts Had a crowbar for a pillow and dirty condoms were last nights bed. Dont know what Im choppin Only donny baker knows were ive been Im a chopper on the run Sport route lover A gambler on the sharp end Taken bolts out in a Blaze of Glory

Go to home depot and get the 2 part glue made by stimson that is used for gluing bolts in on constuction projects. You can by a small tube for 7 bucks and it is really good, but slippery if you get it on the hold. It is the same type of glue that you use for glue in anchors Good luck

quote: Originally posted by Heinrich: Just wondering about the approach to Colchuck. Has anyone been up there recently and know how close you can drive to the trailhead. Thanks. The road opened thursday the 25th good luck

First off this is not FAT KID typing. This is his room-mate. The crack that the pins were in were about as big as the space between the buttons and the body on your mouse. Actually it wasn't really a crack since these were the only openings pins could have been hammered into on this portion (the crux as we call it in sport climbing) of the route. I admit that I have not done a lot of trad climbing (this was my 5th trad route in 8 yrs of climbing and I had done a 5.9 and an 11b earlier that day) but I know the twang of a well placed piton. The one did not have that twang so I backed off the route in order to climb another day. Since I am a neophyte in the "trad" climbing world I didn't know the ethics of pins. After reading the replies in this fourm I have come to a conclusion: First off a well placed and non-rusty new pin is about as good as a bolt (The First ascent party was keen to this condition). You pound both of them into a hole and call it good. So if I'm feeling lazy next time I go to Chimney, I'll just get 2 new pins, pound em' in and do the route, then leave it to decay for the next guy strong enough (probably a sport climber) to try the route. However; if I should get ambitious enough to pack the drill and batteries in, (an hour uphill) I'll sink some bolts in without the permission of the FA. He/she should have equipped the route with stainless steel pitons in the first place. Then I'll redpoint (redpoint is when you place all your protection from the ground up in a continuous ascent of a "pitch" of climbing)"Sudden Impact". Then with the left over battery power I'll bolt this brilliant arete that will be at least 12+ that only sport climbers will be able to do cause trad climbers rarely climb (or should I call it hiking) over 5.8. Thanks for the beta boys and girls! Forum closed. P.S. trad climbing is scary so you all better get fit (climbing sport routes is what I would suggest) to make those moves seem a bit less intimidating. Risking death to climb a route is far more egotistical that chasing numbers.

Pope, you still didn't give me an answear to my question. Erik, the route is called Sudden Impact (11b) at Chimney Rock in the Selkirks of Idaho. (It's a quick trip for some trad climbing for the people of Spokane. Spokane is in the PNW isn't it?) There are no tricky placements. How should the route be fixed?

So I am having beers with my roomate, the sport climber. He goes trad climbing yesterday, gets on a hard route and proceedes to pull out the 2 pitons (by hand) that protect the crux moves. They are knife blades and there is no other protection avaliable. So he askes do I get to pound new pitons in or fire in some bolts to fix the route? Right now the route is extremely run out. What are the opinions on this subject?

But Texplorer. I have zero alpine experience (I used to snowboard a lot does that count?) and only a few trad ascents. Not so well rounded.

I'm not Fat Kid. I'm Marty Sent HOS at Riggins. Got on some projects that I bolted later. Sunday, went to the Riggins cave an got on Tractor Boy. Drove home. It was warm for Riggins. My partner split his pinky open on a sharp crimp due to the 70 degree heat.

Uh, Texplorer, the question was "What are your favorite Pitches in the PNW". A favorite can only be at the crags you have climbed at. So here are my biases (I'm from the east side of the state and Im Marty, not FAt Kid. He just uses my computer). Smith: Toxic, Darkness at noon, Spank The Monkey Vantage: That M&M's route that keeps getting bolted then chopped, Boschido, The routes around the Powerhouse that I can't remember the names Minnehaha: Dihedral, Hooker, Hot Licks Deep Creek: Motley Crux, Quiver, Opiate for the People China Bend: Blue Chunks, Pork Sausage, Shut out Marcus: Natural Born Puller, Sport of Spew, The Blow of Choss Metaline FAlls: Gunshow, Conan the Barbarian, 12GA. Pump Riggins: So Thin So Fat, Tractor Boy, Brother Speed Dishman: Slave Labor, Rock 106, The Dull Sickle Post FAlls: Death Fall, Death Match 2000, Fantastic upside Down Flake Laclede: Poster Child, Yeild Curve, Chicken Mc Nubbins Chimney: Canary Legs (only route Ive done there) Banks Lake: Red Rocket, Allergic Reaction, Short Circut Little Si: Rainy day women was nice but haven't been there much. Rocks of Sharon: Chronic Rookie, Super Fly, Massive attack Spring MOuntain: Can't remember the names but all the easier routes up to 12a were good. I'd recommend a weekend to anyone looking for a good moderate sport Crag Skaha: Not Fade Away, Fire wire, Wings of Desire Granite Point: Psychosynthesis, Pendulum, Killer My 2cents concerning PNW pitches. Spokane is part of the PNW isn't it?

The pack that is not metioned here that I would not trade anjything for is the Cold Cold World Chernobyle. I have had on for a couple years and beat the heck out of it. Big enough to carry a couple days worth of stuff yet compreses well to climb with. The problem I have expierenced with alot of other packs is the waist strap is so large to make it comfortable to carry a load that it gets in the way with a harness when you are climbing. Just my expierence, but I do tend to break alot of stuff. later

Has any one been up to do this route lately? How is the approach? Thanks

The rock empire cams are an awsome value. They are well built and would be what I would buy if I was building a rack from scratch or trying to ad some some more cams. Check out www.acmeclimbing.com for the cams and some other good gear deals. later