Uncle_Tricky
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Posts posted by Uncle_Tricky
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trask said:
(The Bowline) is simple - the rabbit comes outta the hole, around the tree, and back down the hole.
Personally, I'm a fan of the Modified Bowline:
The rabbit comes outta the hole, climbs the tree, takes a piss from on high, eats some herbaceous shubbery, visits the watering hole for a cold one, and then retreats to his den with the seductive snafflehoundstress for some funky rodent lovin.
It's a more complex knot than the simple bowline, but hell-- you might at well do something besides simply hopping around some stupid tree before going back to your hole.
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catbirdseat said:
Uncle Tricky, later in the season the water is lower and is an easy wade, but when I was there it seemed rather swift.
Try walking a couple hundred feet upstream from the cable. Yeah, sometimes the water is high, but there's a wide shallow spot that's almost always walkable. Since the flow is controlled by a dam, the river fluctuates according to irrigation needs and the fullness of the reservoir instead of rain/snow melt.
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Spent a day at Bulo, a day at Horsethief and a day at Frenchman's this week. A patch of snow blocked the road about 1/4 mile before the crag, but the rock was dry and warm. Some fun bolted climbs and a couple nice cracks. And of course we had it to ourselves. Horsethief was bloody windy. Saw several rattlers and got maybe 20 ticks between two people and two dogs. My hound ate Death Camas and spent the next 24 hours puking wildly. The Coulee was sunny and warm. Only one other party on Sunshine Wall. Saw the Goran memorial. Snowing hard from Cle Elum on over the pass coming back over last night!
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Annoyances
in Spray
When while belaying or rapping, people feed the rope through the ATC at a right angle to the slots (instead of parrellel to the slots), thus introducing a bunch of twists into the rope!
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till the shed has a complete roof...and a way to get water out of the well...I'm going to suckle at the sweet nipple of korporate largesse...
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I will soon be homeless (May 23).
I'm thinking about investing in a spacious cardboard refrigerator box under the University Bridge.
However, I would also consider renting a room in a house. I have a mostly mellow hound dog. OK with short term (Summer) arrangement. On average, I would only be there 3 days a week, so I'm not looking to shell out big bucks.
PM me if you know of any possibilities.
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Anyone climbed there? It's at 4,600 feet, but E. of the crest near Dufur. Probably snow-free by now?
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I found a couple yellow slings--one sewn, one tied. Let me know if you want them back.
Since I'm short on words and sense today, I'll just let the pictures tell the story of the evening.
NOTE: If you would like all evidence of your presence at this debauched debacle destroyed--including any photographic evidence, GPS plots, or witness statements--please send a check or money order to Dan -. He can make sure nobody can prove you were there. Then, if anyone asks you if you attended this infamous event, you can claim such rumors are "unofficial and unverified" at best.
The evening started off with the standard ritual baptism of first-time lurkers. I believe this is the honorable Mattp presiding over the dunking.
The food was excellent. Rumor has it GregW killed this wild boar in the hinterlands near Gold Bar with nothing but a #5 stopper. That's badass! He used a recipe from Ted Nugent's "Kill it and Grill it" book to cook this monster up. The Before:
The climbers in attendence last night were a hungry bunch. The After:
After stuffing our faces with roasted pig, we played some games and such. Here is Tangled up in Blue psyching herself up for one CC.com tradition:
This is Ehmmic. She was trying to prove that you can keep your head underwater indefinitely by lowering the air pressure inside your head to the point where you can actually inhale oxygen through your rear end. Most of us were skeptical at first, but after a half hour, even the doubters were convinced.
For those new lurkers who chose to forego the baptism-by-lake, there was another option available....(This person has sent a check to Dan -, and thus their identitity shall remain a mystery, their presence at this event entirely unverifiable).
Even the normally reclusive Trask showed up and brought a date. I'm sure he got some funny looks driving down I-5 from Snohomish county:
For entertainment, after dinner we separated into sport climbers and trad climbers and had a short riot. This is Fence Sitter, being cheered on by his mates, lobbing something in AlpineK's direction.
Of course it's all fun and games until AlpineK breaks out the chainsaw...
At that point, we called off the riot, had a group hug, and went back to drinking and standing by the bonfire.
It's hard to believe those shelters are not more flame resistant, but it did make for a warm cheery fire on an otherwise cold and windy night.
All in all a very entertaining evening!
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"I'd like to go climbing, but I'm presently pinned under a large heavy object."
(Insert joke regarding somebody's mom here)
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Why not just walk across the knee-deep water?
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I though First Blood (rated 5.8) was one of the hardest I've done for the grade. Then again, I didn't have any big gear and maybe I was climbing the wrong crack.
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Or perhaps the industrial size?
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Lambone said:
Dude, I was with two chicks, nuff said...we wern't moving anywhere in that weather.
Paging Lynn Hill....
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I hope no one minds if I bring my dogs. They are very sweet and would never harm anyone--at least as long as you don't show any signs of weakness or infirmity, or run or make any sudden movements. Just look tall, hand over whatever you are grilling, and back away slowly. Everything will be ok. Really.
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I know this character who has HATE tatooed on the four knuckles of his right hand, KILL tatooed on the four knuckes of his left, above which on the back of his hands are smiley faces run through with a saber swords, and "Red in the Head" inscribed in red italics on his forehead, (an accurate description of his hair color and combustible temperment.)
I've always considered being around him like walking around on the Fourth of July, drunk, with a jar of nitro balanced on your head--something I generally try to avoid. However, he recently turned over a kinder, gentler leaf, (of maybe it's the lithium) overwriting HATE and KILL on his knuckles with aces, clubs, diamonds and spades.
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I haven't climbed the Inspiration route, but there are a number of other routes besides the couple listed in Burdo's book. I'm not sure what the name or grade of the route is we climbed, but it starts a few feet right of the white streak of the goat's beard, and heads up towards the hanging oasis above. We went up 5 pitches, and there appeared to be at least a few more above. Unlike the inspiration route, you only need a single rope to descend cause the pitches are shorter. Its fun and well protected, but right now it's covered with running water.
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Why do climbers yell "TAKE!" instead of "GIVING UP!"?
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I'd second the beach idea. Nice to be out there this time of year--it's well into spring while the mountains are still snowy. Ruby Beach to Ozette or the Shi Shi to Ozette leg--or link them together. Just remember to flow the locals on the Rez outside of Neah bay a few bucks if you leave your car there. Your car will be in much better shape upon your return.
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Dave--the climbing right near Mazama is mostly sport stuff on edgy volcanic rock. Lot's of moderate and easily top-ropable stuff if that's what you're looking for. There's also some fairly long (7+ pitches?) sport climbs on goat wall just up the road. Everything at Mazama is dry and snow-free right now, though there is water running down parts of goat wall.
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What colors do the Tri-cam #s correspond to? I might be interested in the pink, red, brown or purple sizes.
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JGowans said:
Jim, If you care about the environment, take the shit you need for work, strap it to a fucking yak and walk to work.
People who ride oversized yaks to work clearly are compensating for some sort of inadequacy. Besides consuming copius amount of pasturage, and belching clouds of ozone-destroying methane into the air, their monstrous size makes them a hazard on the road for others. Because of their long hoof-base they can easily become high-centered, and given their high center of gravity, they roll easily. Yaks are nothing but status symbols, and most people that own them never even take them offroad!
Instead, I'd recommend an agile and environmentally-friendly alpaca. Besides higher fuel economy and lower emissions, they are quite talented at 4th classing sections of the Cascades where yuppies who are afraid of getting their yaks dirty fear to tread.
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Howdy kids. Looking for midweek partners for cragging or alpine rock. Can climb monday thru thursday every week. Open to messing around at Darrington, Index, Squamish, L-Town, etc. Hoping to do mary jane dihedral, direct east buttress SEWS, E. face chianti, maybe clean break and some other stuff up near WA Pass. I'd also like to walk into Cathedral peak and spend a few days doing routes there. Drop me a note, eh?
TR Mt Baring
in Alpine Lakes
Posted
The Captain is the Twight of trip reports: light, fast, supremely efficient.