timmatsui

Trip: Colfax Beta photo - Cosley-Houston and Polish Route Date: 5/7/2017 Trip Report: FYI: Photos from 7 May, 2017. From the iphone, sorry they're not more detailed. Looks like Cosley-Houston and the Polish Route are both in on Colfax. CH looks fat. Polish Route looks like it touches down, but I think the pillar is still free-hanging. We were just up there to ski. Have fun. From Frank Huster's insta (this is best beta photo): Approach Notes: ~2miles of snow on road, went up Grouse Creek to Heliotrope Ridge. Stream crossings are getting interesting, but it's passable on the west side of Grouse.

Trip: Flow Reversal: Conditions - Alpental Valley Date: 2/2/2017 Trip Report: Today's report, it's in and good. in case the image doesn't come through, see it here:

Scarpa Phantom Guide Size 42 Worn only three days in the Canadian Rockies last season. They fit pretty wide, which surprised me. $400 ...and this image upload interface is too complicated for my meager mind. You can see pix at this link: https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/5911670482.html

Trango Ice Evo Size 41.5 Solid boot with lots of sole left, not too much wear on the uppers, integrated gaiter fully intact. Fit was never quite right. Last season I promised myself I'd find something different for this year. Good description of the boot: http://www.summitpost.org/outdoor-gear/trango-ice-evo/1811 $150 Link to CL post for pix: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/5388351247.html

Scarpa Phantom Guide Size 42 Sadly, I chose the wrong size. Worn (literally) only three days in the Canadian Rockies in early November. They fit pretty wide, which surprised me. $430 Link to CL post for pix: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/5388351523.html

[sOLD] Petzl S12 Mountaineering Crampon Well used in the Cascades, but with lots of life left in them. Semi-flexible, adjustable heel bail and toe strap. Horizontal frontpoints. $45 Failing to upload images through CC interface so here's the CL post: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/5388350714.html

Petzl M10 Ice/Mixed Climbing Crampon Originally used as mono point crampons, I’ve installed the second points on the inside. Though heavy, they’re excellent mixed/ice crampons I’d still consider using at the local mixed crag. No anti-bot plates included…but duct tape works well. $75 I'm failing at uploading images using this interface so, here's the CL post: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/5388350477.html

Trip: Mt. Stuart - Full North Ridge Date: 7/12/2014 Trip Report: Sorry if I messed up the pictures posting, the vertical that's horizontal, etc. I'm not super savvy with this interface. This is mostly for a conditions report to help people decided their gear/strategy. It was super warm conditions so the aluminum crampons weren't needed. Light axe was. We wore approach shoes. Mosquitos are horrendous from Ingall's Pass elevation to about the notch on the N. Ridge of Stuart; must be a hatch happening. Snow in Ingalls basin, lake still partly frozen. Possible to climb/descend snow from the lake all the way to base of South Face route on Ingalls Pk. Water is available at outflow of lake. Snow as you drop from base of W. Ridge Stuart to boulder field below Goat Pass. Substantial snow crossing to base of N. Ridge. Stuart Glacier, if you're going to the half-ridge, is not blue ice yet. Still a finger of snow in the gully getting to the notch. Plenty of water at base of ridge (either on you way there or just below), still a snow patch at the notch, and plenty of snow on the south side of the summit. http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=98244&title=conditions-for-approach-to-north-ridge-mtstuartearly-july-2014&cat=500 For W Ridge climbers, there's still a bit of snow in the approach couloir and a couple patches on the ridge line.

Thanks Russ. It's mostly about being willing to take out the camera when you see an image. I also used my iphone that day. Much lighter that the DSLR! T

We were the party of four coming from Paradise (Dan Aylward, Frank Huster, Joe Sambatoro, myself). We left at 3.30, got to Muir around dawn, past the party of four coming down, then a party of two with a soloist attached. Got to the ledges with increasing winds and decreasing visibility. We traversed the ledges until we could see the Nisqually ice fall during periodic breaks in the snow. We gave up near 12,000' just before entering the last snowfield leading to the top of Gibraltar Rock. Conditions were firm from the parking lot, we put on crampons to gain Panorama Point and left them on the whole way. The ledges weren't very icy, mostly frozen rock and dirt with bands of firm snow. While I suppose you could put in a picket here and there, but there isn't really any pro along the ledges and would recommend climbers be comfortable soloing moderate but exposed and loose terrain. We had two tools but each of us only used one; it wasn't very steep. If high winds continue, I would imagine this route will stay in great, consolidated shape for some time. We have no idea about the higher reaches; if they're icy or neve, but we were prepared for late season conditions. Here's a pic from near our high point to give you an idea of terrain: http://ow.ly/sg0L5 More pix for route info in that gallery and some on my IG at @timmatsui ; aviatorruss and crew ended up in a few. Best T

Patagonia is working on a book with Fred Beckey and they're looking for a shot I don't have. Do you guys have or know someone who has this: (from Fred) "do you happen to have an overall shot of Ranier showing the Kautz glacier Route? Needs to be a head on shot." The image must be high-resolution and high quality meeting Patagonia's photography standards. Please respond to me if you think you may have an image. tim@timmatsui.com Thanks for your help!

Nice work Mikey! Breathing some life back into the local classics!

Mikey freed it mid sept. last year with a variation on the pendulum pitch. Pix are here: http://pa.photoshelter.com/c/timmatsui/gallery/20090915-mikey/G0000tO4p6qcQxnQ

I'm bumping this post. Some folks have responded to this offer, much appreciated, but I'd like to have a few more people on the roster so we have at least two people per night, some route setters, and some alternates in case someone can't make it in because they're sick or injured or leaving for Columbia University (been known to happen). The gym is downtown, it's pretty darn nice, and the wall is something you could get a great pump on. Hell, you could start with a kickboxing session, followed by a climbing session, then get your crossfit set in, and finish up with a yoga session. You know, the multisport athlete. And women: one of the new volunteers would like to start a women's night, which is great because most of the interest in the wall comes from female gym members. Again, if you're interested: Tim Matsui 206.409.3069 tim (at) timmatsui (dot) com

I'm managing a 28x24 meter Entreprise climbing wall installed by Allstar Fitness at their Westlake Executive Club facility, downtown in the Medical Dental Building near Westlake Center. I'm looking for additional volunteers. Duties are belaying, belay instruction, belay testing, teaching of technique, and route setting. You will be working mostly with rank beginners so your patience and psych will be important. Hours available are Mon-Thurs from 5.30-8.30 (class times are between 6-8). If you would like to work on route setting you can do that anytime the gym is open. In exchange for your once-a-week duties you are entitled to a free membership to Allstar which means you can use any of their facilities (Westlake, Seattle Municipal Tower, West Seattle, Tacoma). There are two other Allstar climbing walls, swimming pools, classes, steam rooms...it's a pretty plush gym and you'll have access to all the other ones. Also, to its credit, the Executive Club has a well-equipped women's only workout room. Check out the facilities: http://allstarfitness.com/club_locations.htm And let me know if you're interested: Tim Matsui 206.409.3069 tim (at) timmatsui (dot) com