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kyagpa!

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Posts posted by kyagpa!

  1. 1987 AAJ " El Dorado Peak North Couloir. The north face of Eldorado Peak is a hazardous enigma. In October, Dan Cauthorn and I --carrying plenty of noodles and tuna packed in oil--emerged from the depths of the Cascade forest empire to investigate this hidden facet of the "Queen of the Cascade River." There were no clouds to cause concern (still, you never know.) We left our camp below the west face of El Dorado at six A.M. and walked toward the Dorado Needle-El Dorado col until we could climb onto the glacier beneath the north face of El Dorado. The elegant and unmistakable couloir required 6 to 8 pitches of frozen snow and water ice between 55 and 90 degrees, finishing on the knife-edged summit arete. On the summit at one P.M., Cauthorn summed it all up:"Good climb, good climb....I think so, dont you" (III) William Pilling "

  2. I have used the solo-aid a fair bit and can say that it works well on aid and maybe moderate free climbing. You have to feed it yourself by hand but it feeds very smoothly after your a third of a ropelength out before that its not as smooth. I havent used any other devise so I have nothing to compare it to but it works for me!

  3. Dan I would be interested in climbing the D.C. on the first and second. I have allways avoided that side of the mountain for fear of the crowds but it will probobly be allright by now, and the route should be slightly more interesting now. If your interested or are still looking for a partner I will be working at second ascent mon-wed this week. Kendall

  4. Right on lucky! Hey I need to get back on the rock Ive been climbing mostly snow and ice for the past year and a half and would be really psyched to go climbing with you again! ( give me a call I work at second ascent in ballard 545-8810) Kendall

  5. I will deffinitly post my trip report but it may not be untill next year. I want to be in marathon shape before I try it and I'll do my best not to bivy but its deffinitly a possibility. Thank you so much fo telling me about your trip, this was exactlly the type of info I was looking for.

  6. In an effort to come up with a original name I chose something of great interest to me and used its Tibetan word, How did you come up with your cascadeclimbers name? Didnt expect it to get so much attention but hey whatever floats your boat. I,m not used to my user name being made fun of, so my appology if I havent chosen a good name. Thank you to all that posted usefull responses to the actual question. Oh yeah and lambone you should try to get out more the vertical world attitude seems to be permanently imbeded in your posts!

  7. Yeah I meant from car to car in a day and I am very familliar with three of the aproaches and was thinking that the best way might be up and over easy pass down to fischer creek up and down the douglas glacier and then back up over easy pass.What do you think? As for the the people who care to respond with lame comments instead of usefull suggestions nobody cares to read that stuff but yourselves so please dont waste space and other peoples time thanks!

  8. The answer is very simple, I used to get cold when I would sleep on snow with my thermarest so I got a ridge rest they are alot lighter than a thermarest and even the thinner one is alot warmer than my old thermarest! and they sell for somethin like 12-15$

  9. four sheets to the wind - New River

    last two pitches of outer space

    alcoa presents - Seneca

    tropicana -exit 38

    pleasant overhangs - Seneca

    soler - devils tower

    paul maul - tieton

    sinsemelia - Vantage

    west variation of monkeys face - Smith

    These are a few of my favorites. even if not all in the PNW sorry about twice!

    [This message has been edited by kyagpa! (edited 08-16-2001).]

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