swalsh

Yeah we stayed on rock the entire time after getting off the snow at the Torment notch. We did short moat sections from notchs onto towers in places. The snow was good for crampons, we were able to get by with pickets to protect where we traversed. We could see that the other party did traverse a long section of snow to the 3rd tower or a little past that, by the looks of their tracks the snow was in good shape for that, I don't know if they protected in places or not. I would have a couple of screws just in case.

Lost Canon Powershot SD600 digital camera in small black case with extra memory card and battery. Fell off my pack on the 3rd pitch of S Ridge Torment and tumbled down ledges on S side, may be on SW face ledges or below on the snow.

Lost Canon Powershot SD600 digital camera. Fell off my pack on the 3rd pitch of S Ridge Torment and tumbled down ledges on S side, may be on SW face ledges or below on the snow.

Trip: North Cascades - Torment-Forbidden Traverse Date: 7/30/2007 Trip Report: My climbing buddy Steve Kuehne and I went in for our 3rd attempt at Torment Forbidden Traverse on Monday morning, leaving the trailhead at 5:30am. Uneventful climb via Torment Creek staying on the ridge above the heather basin until able to move over left into the col leading to the start for the S Ridge of Torment, roped up and started up torment at about 11:30am. My Camera popped off my pack on the 3rd pitch up and we wasted some time lowering down ledges above the S Face looking for it, it may be down on the snow below the S face if anyone finds it I'd appreciate getting it back. Topped out on Torment at 2 and had some lunch before descending to the notch for the start of the traverse. Around 3pm we rapped off the 2nd set of slings onto the snow and wasted a little more time descending a little farther down the snow. There was a party of 2 ahead of us and they gave us good advice to traverse directly from the bottom of the rap to rock, so we traversed a far as we could on snow (descending only slightly to follow the moat as far as possible onto rock)and then climbed a short patch of snow straight up followed by a pitch rising leftward to easier climbing over the top of the 1st tower. The 2nd tower was climbed up ledges to the right then up and passed around the south side close below the top. We got on the 3rd tower via the north side moat then led a pitch followed by simoclimbing over the top to the long flat saddle. It was now about 8:30 so we decided to bivy on a slopey flat rock pocket next to the snow on the NE side of the saddle. Day 2 we started out about 8am directly from the moat into a gully system going up the next tower, after 1 pitch it was simoclimbing most of the way, next came the side walk sections and sharp ridge traverses with short sections of protected climbing, did a short rap half way to the Forbidden W Ridge notch, and another at the last tower to get into the notch via sandy ledges on the south side. Had lunch at the bottom of the W Ridge and met the party from the day before just finishing the descent of the W Ridge. We started up the W Ridge at 11:30 and topped out at 2:30. There was a party on the E Ridge nearing the summit and right before I rapped off a climber appeared on the summit having just soloed the W Ridge. We used the N side rap descent and came down from the E Ridge notch into Boston Basin, this descent worked very well coming down from doing the E Ridge 3 weeks ago when there was snow all the way down from the base of the E Ridge to lower Boston Basin but it was melted out and not fast yesterday. Fun route, Lasting Impression: Committed! Weather Monday started out with overcast to keep us cool for the climb up Torment Creek then cleared just in time for us to start up the gully to the S Ridge start, fine weather the rest of the trip with warm sunshine and intermittant cool breezes. Steve did 90% of the leading on this one and I appreciated it! Gear Notes: We used a couple of pickets, 2 axes each, we also had screws but didn't use them. Aluminum crampons. We used only approach shoes Medium rock rack to a #2 camelot. 60m rope.

Can anyone with fairly current info on the snow and climbing conditions for Buckner N Face routes and Nooksack Tower Becky route reply with snow conditions, are they totally melted out yet, etc ?? Thanks.

Dynafit TL Tech All Terrain Randonee Boots, Mens size US-10, MO-28. Featuring Thermafit liners for perfect fit to your feet. These boots are light, only 7lb, 5oz per pair while offering great support for downhill. They are compatible with Dynafit bindings for an ultra light BC ski setup, they are also suitable for all other touring bindings as well as crampon compatible for ice. Also great for hiking and climbing on snow in tour mode. Used less than 10 times. I love these boots but I had to go up a size to size 11's. These boots retail for $460.00. Email me for more photos. Call me at 425-670-2542

Mens Size 10 Dynafit Tourlite All Terrain Randonee Ski Boots. These boots come with thermafit liners and are compatible with Dynafit bindings for a very light backcountry setup. Crampon compatible and great to climb in. I got these last year and used them about 10 times but they are to small for me. I like these boots so much I bought size 11's this year. Originally listed at $460.00 I'll let these go for $275. If interested call me at 425-670-2542.

Was anyone on Liberty June 22-23? I was wondering what the conditions were on the ridge on Sunday.

I got the Hyperguides in late spring and am really impressed with them. One of the first things I did with them was the West Ridge on the North Twin Sister. The route is mostly 4th class but it snowed the whole day and all the rock was wet yet I don't remember these shoes slipping at all. I also did W Ridge on Forbidden and N Ridge on Stuart in them this summer. I use Black Diamond Contact crampons with them and they work great as an all around approach shoe. Can't comment on the Trango's. Good luck.

Be prepared for hard ice on the last couple of hundred feet to the true summit.

I saw JBlakely up in Boston Basin last week, he actually allowed me to follow him around and swat horseflies off his chiseled physique. I saw the Magnificient Bastard coming down off of the West Ridge, scrubbing his thighs with pumice, trying to remove the filthy stain of shame.

Has anyone done this lately? Mainly interested in what kind of shape the approach across the Coleman Glacier is in. Thanks.