hakioawa
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Posts posted by hakioawa
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Anyone climbed it?
If you take the exposure factor out of it, how hard is is? Would you take a newbie up it? We're going to do Owl Rock first and see how it goes.
She's climbing well, but never done multi-pitch. Kinda concerns me.
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Seems about right to me. Though with a lightweight canister stove and 4oz. of fuel are a great option in a pinch.
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I'd like to take 4-5 newbies for their first outdoor experience. The goal is to teach lead belaying, rapping etc., more so than to get a lot of routes in. Any suggestions for this weekend? Vantage will be in, but crowded. Any suggestions in 11worth?
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[video:youtube]
High Ice!
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Managed a VERY slow summit of WH via the standard route. I'll echo nekopunch's comments above. TONS of wet slow moving sluffs the whole way between Lone Tree and High Pass. I don't think these posed significant danger, but going was slow. Once at High Pass, the glacier was pretty solid. We roped up, though probably didn't need to. A couple of the big cracks were starting to open up.
The schrund was 95% open, but there was a slight step across on the far left. We had a 30m and put in on picket between the schrund and the summit. Steep, good snow. The last 8' feet has a little ice. Found an anchor on top and belayed down. My guess is the schrund will be impassible within a week, if not by the end of the weekend.
Brought:
pickets - used
snowshoes - used, but shouldn't have
30m - used
crampons - not used
Good times!
[video:youtube]
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In the last couple of days, I spent a bit of time contemplating the same route this weekend but decided that avy risks were not favorable. Not telling what to do or not do, but something to consider.
Yes, I've been thinking the same thing. My guess is that it will either be a)Obvious avy danger, in which case we'll bail b)super soupy, in which case we'll bail c) Not too bad and we'll summit.
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Planning a quick jaunt up Whitehorse tomorrow; going by way of the "Whitehorse Glacier" route in the Nelson guide. Nelson recommends only crampons and ice axe. Many of the TRs use full glacier gear. Any recommendations?
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Two more deaths. I have it on good authority that at least one was a former Seattleite that some of us know. My condolences to the friends and family.
http://www.adn.com/2011/05/26/1884379/2-more-climbers-die-2-hurt-in.html
Be safe this weekend.
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You again? Didn't you get Your ass kicked?
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Yeah, but does it have a moat?
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Snickers + a vitamin + chalk = powerbar
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screw the rando get these
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Ski mountaineering -> Dynafit because they are very light
Inbounds -> Naxo becuase the teo peice has the most elasticity and hence fewest pre releases
Powder -> Silveretta. Tends to be the easiest to put on and is light enought for yo-yoing. Also good for approach skis because they can be used with a crampon compatible boot
All in one? Diamir hands down! That said I have Silvretta 555s and dynafits.
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Hmm wonder if I can get a first decent of the new I-90 on-ramp?
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Don't expect any other ISP to be much faster w/o DSL or cable. The condition of your line makes a big difference and all ISPs will share it. NetZero High speed may make it appear a little faster, but I think using Opera or Mozilla and setting some of the popup blockers and futzing around to skip adds will make a difference. I use IE BTW. In any event do youself a favor and get DSL. YOu will use it and the extra $10-15 a months will save you many hours of frustration. If the speed limit on the freeway was 15mph would you spend an extra $10 a month to drive at 60? I would.
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I have a pair of Kombi windstopper gloves. Got them at outdoor and more. Paid something like $20. THEY ARE FANTASTIC! I think the are the Orko model. They do stay worm when wet, you can climb in them. They easily work as liners. The breathe well, cut the wind. If you do a really fast rappel you may melt the reinforced palm, but other than that they are about the best piece of gear for the $$ I own.
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Democratic presidential hopeful Rep. Dick Gephardt (news - web sites), D-Mo., casts a shadow on the flag as he is introduced to speak at a rally Monday, Dec. 1, 2003, at the police station in Cedar Rapids, Iowa. Gephardt, faulting President Bush (news - web sites) for ``gambling with our safety,'' on Monday called for spending $100 billion over five years on homeland security.(AP Photo/Charlie Neibergall)
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Basically you have zero security. All your data is sent in clear text over the internet so any ISP that routes your data can read it. Any admin at the receiveing end can read it to. Securing email is not that easy. Look for S/MIME implementations.
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Anyone heard any info on the NTN?
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Two come to mind. Emmons route on Rainier. 1000' of ice. 6000' of corn and 1000' of slush. Seeing the faces on a line of climbers we passed on the way down was priceless!
The other was "glory bowl" off 22W in Jackson. Perhaps the most amazing powder run with my cousin who lives in town. Nothing like 2500' of turns, when you only have to hike 1000'
Making Crack
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
This explains some fractures (e.g. the columns in Vantage), but not those in sedimentary rocks, nor the regional fracture patterns you see in some areas, such as the fins in the Fiery Furnace in Arches park.
The way to think about this is that these fractures are not actually big. You need to think at much larger scale. Cooled rock is fairly brittle. Lets say you have say a 10-100 mile unit of homogeneous rock (in plan view) that is say 200' thick. If you put an stress on it, over a long period of time, you'll find that the fractures tend to line up orthogonal (perpendicular) to the regional stress.
Take a look at this:
See how all the fractures are lined up and vertical? We can conclude that this area is being extended by "tectonic forces" orthogonal to the fractures. In this case I believe it is because a big blob (technical term) of salt a mile or so below is rising to the surface.