johnny
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Posts posted by johnny
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Thanks Carolyn!!
Tradgirl is a prett cool site. Those comments made quick sense of all the thoughts in this thread.....I especially liked the beginning, I guess it is all in a name after all!
OK, on a slightly different track, how many of you out there use a devise (ATC,etc.) to belay a second up to a stance? I have begun using the munter hitch almost exclusively. It seems to simplify the whole anchoring/ belaying process; less gear to futz with. A clove hitch on my end of the rope for my own anchor and another locking biner on the anchors' sweet spot with a munter to bring up the second. Less gear, less time.
Any thoughts???
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Even if I have only one star!!!!!!!!!
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Seems as if Otherguy has rated me after all. What is ones self if it is not compared to others????
I am curious though, who amoung you has actually climbed at the UPS gym? I have a strange affection for it and I wonder if others might not feel the same way.... Or perhaps there are a bunch of you out there who have heard that it is only a converted raquetball court and not worth your time.
OK so it is only a converted raquetball court. Life is what you make of it, no? There are however some really talented route setters there. If there are more lavish plans in the works, people like Justin Canny, the UPS recreation coordinator and Josh (don't know his last name but he is a super nice guy and one awsome climber/route setter) should be contacted as possible resources. Let me know if you want to get in touch with them... My new address is tshawytcha@aol.com.
yeah, I still have no job and plan to milk it for all it is worth...............
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OK, I am getting mixed messages here. I have been using a BD bod for a good long while now and am considering getting a new harness. My reasons are really more comfort oriented than anything else; hanging belays from an unpadded bod just plain suck. If I do not change, my precious little nuggets may never forgive me!! I like the idea of the belay loop for its simplicity. I have looked at several harnesses with loops and without exception the loop appears to be much more skookum than the leg/waist loops it is connected to. I know that this goes against the redundancy theory, but one loop with a greater breaking strength than the other three combined (two legs and one waist) seems to me pretty safe.
One other thing....Lots of new harnesses out there with loops and nice cushy padding and I just ain't seeing too many without. I know all about lemmings (I heard that was staged anyway..... call me if you are interested in Mutual of Omaha) but maybe the teeming hordes are right this time????
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Otherguy: Tacoma might just be a cesspool, but judging from your superior "1" star rating, it seems others have just about the same opinion of you!!
Sorry, just couldn't resist...
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No, there is not much for gyms in Tacoma (and yes, the town is a bit of a cultural vacuum) but you guys are underestimating the potential for the UPS gym. I realize it is small, but that is part of its appeal, most times I have had the place to myself to crank the tunes and get a damn good workout in after work while waiting for the Narrows bridge traffic to settle down.
What you all are forgetting is that it is small and run pretty much as a coop, and a very low-key one at that. Are you listening DPS??? This means that anyone who joins is welcome to set new routes or just play with the holds. Opportunity for learning and experimentation? I think so. There are boxes of holds there just waiting for someone to fondle them. Really the only thing limiting this facility is the lack of constructive participation in its upkeep and new route development.
And it only costs $99 for non-students to join for a year.....can you say cheap???
OK, there is my shameless plug. I can't climb there anymore so y'all (I am still practicing my accent) better get on it!
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I just wanted to pop in and say hello to all you soggy psycopaths still out there in Washington. My ass survived the U-haul drive (with the help of a day cragging in Moab!)and I have officially taken up residence here.
No job yet (oh darn...), sunny and 75 today so off to Stone Mountain for some bouldering. A cool, crisp 50 and sunny this weekend for a trip to Boone and Shiprock (no kids this weekend so something over 5.5 just might be in the works!) Notice a pattern here? sunny, sunny, sunny, I have a better tan now than when I left!!!!
Hope this finds you all healthy and happy, even the ex Captain Caveman!
Oh yeah, who is this "sexual chocolate" person....I very much like the name, it conjures up all sorts of naughty images :-)
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You mean Doo Doo don't you?
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Matt, Go get Brian Burdo's book on North Bend area climbing; Exit 38, there is a ton of stuff there to play on, much of it in the easier grades. Check out The Far Side on the North side of the highway, there is actually granite there instead of that slippery ryolite stuff. Be sure to stop at the Grit Scone for some super short, 3 bolt, super edgey climbing on the well you guessed it, gritty rock. It is on the way to The Far Side just off the trail.
Have fun!!! and get up there quick before the rains set in!!
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OK, first things first. Dru, Cavey, I thought you guys climbed on ocassion?? An absolutely beautiful September Saturday just happened and I see from your post times that you were inside just like me. I am moving across the country in a few day so I have an excuse, You????????
Now about the water...... I grew up and now make a living on the water in this area. Without it we would be nothing more than another Spokane. ( I kinda like Spokane actually...) It is what makes the Cascades/Olympics what it is and we owe everything to it. It is the blood of our Mother Earth and wherever it flows should be treated with as much respect as your own blood.
Yeah fish fuck in it but y'all ( I'm still practicing my accent) wash your own jism out of your sheets (or socks......Cavman??) with the very same water that them there salmon get their rocks off in.
I have swam in, floated on, paddled, dove (divin??) drank, waded, and fallen down in waters from North of Nome, Alaska to California and never once has this "blood of our Earth" treated me any worse that I have treated it.
Remember, think before you make a mess, someone ALWAYS lives downstream.
My $0.02 as a salmon biologist and human
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I know it is a beautiful Saturday but this is what moving reduces one to; taking breaks to mess about on the internet!
I couldn't help but ask if anyone else has ever used the hook half of 2 inch velcro to make skins with. I realize that this is quite outdated but I just put a pair of skins my dad made about 20 years ago into a Goodwill box. Sewn loop at one end for ski-tip, couple of straps around the ski and an adjustable strap at the end which fits into the notch you ground into your ski tail. Pretty easy to make if you have any sewing skills at all and super cheap. They do not slide downhill but they stick like nothing else ever invented!
After writing this I just might keep these things as a conversation piece Hell, I still have the old skiis I used them on when I was a kid. Hmmmmm......
I hope that everyone else who ever posts to this goofy site is out enjoying one of the last groovy weekends this summer has to offer!!!!!
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Cheri,
I have a friend who climbs quite often with her husband but would like to find others to crag with without having to sleep with them as well :-)
I will forward your address to her as I cannot remember hers.....Good luck!
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You know, I have been on Grndfather mountain and the whold magilla 'cept Ship rock is closed to climnbing. Count your blessings one and all who live in the great state of Washington as we have so much public and quasi-public lands we can mess about in.
Much of the land of interest to climbers in NC is private and the owners either do not want our kind trampling them or they charge large sums of money to acces them. Grandfather mountain for instance charges 12 dollars a head to hike there for a day. No climbing allowed.
The flipside to this is that the owners are wonderful conservationists and are free from state and federal intervention in deciding how best to preserve the fragile ecosystems that exist in portions of their property. Interesting trade-off as long as the property owners are well intentioned.
Just a thought.......
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Hey, good point....Who do y'all (I am practicing, what do y'all think???) think sells/makes the best small kids clothing. Campmor seems to sell a lot, any others???
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AJ, thanks for the ideas....I have climbed at Stone already and it ROCKS!! I love delicate, high angle friction and that is exactly what Stone has to offer....The leads are pretty scary though, lots of 30 to 50 foot runouts. Bit of a mindfuck really but that is part of what makes it so cool!
I looked at Ship but didn't have a chance to climb. There is some amazing looking cracks and roofs there, and thankfully, like you said NO BOLTS!!!!!
Oh yeah, the bouldering in Boone is absolutely incredible. Hard stuff but super cool. There is a ton of rock in NC...I cannot wait!!
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I am really encouraged by what you said David! Having Spent some time in the Winston Salem area the last year or so in preperation for this move I have found that there is no "convenient" gym to crank in during the week and was contemplating building a small wall of my own. I think that is a great idea to get the kids involved in its' construction, teach them some basic skills and instill confidence.
Retro, you four year old really cleans anchors?? I think that is absolutely awsome!!! If you do what you say and keep it fun for him that kid will definitely be a force to reckon with on the rock! I guess some people would think that is too much too young but if you are safe and your child feels safe than why not??
Thanks guys, I am entering uncharted waters for me and this is exactly the encouragement/advice I need. My father gave me a wonderful gift when I was young (enjoying the outside world) and I want to pass that on and I want to do it WELL!!
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Nick, I am moving and have several fleeces, some old gaitors, a crappy pair of crampons (complete with leather straps) a coleman peak1 stove (comes with a yuban cofee can), an old 11mm rope, and a beat Wild Country tent that I am going to give to the Goodwill.
Interested????
P.S. sorry, I just couldn't resist!!!!
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Easy there, caveman. No harm intended, just riding the sarcastic spray fest to distract me from my work like the rest of you. Besides, the poke was intended for the gracious and forgiving BOZO!
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Was that by accidentally opening the bathroom door at a bad time?
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David, He IS my new hero. Bonzo, get over your big bad self. I probably can't and never will be able to climb as good as you seem to think you are but so fucking what?
Lots of us are looking for knowledge and I bet you asked some pretty dumb questions yourself? Your attitude has absolutely no place on this BB. Do us all a favor and go free solo something way over your head.
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Thanks Caveman but I already have a barely under control beer gut as it is! Besides if I go to Florida it will be to chuck big streamers at bonefish in the flats!!!!!!
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I will definately keep you in mind Will, sounds like you know about a few tasty tidbits in NC. At least for the time being my e-mail address there will be tshawytcha@aol.com...drop me a line sometime!
Not too sure where I will be in NC when you are in grad school as I still don't have any definite employment options yet but......
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Moonie--I was making a bit of a joke!! I have known this woman for 23 years and feel as if I have been waiting my whole life for this very moment. There is no doubt in my mind, only love and wonder!
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just trying to keep this post fresh....I would very much like to meet an easy going, honest, moderate rock climber in the Winston-Salem area.....close enough to Boone, Stone Mountain, Ship Rock, Linville Gorge, etc......
Proper use of belay/rap harness loops
in Climber's Board
Posted
Scott,
Yeah, whatever the anchor may be, I generally tie myself in with a clove hitch as soon as I get it built. Get yourself tied off and safe first right? I also try to always remove myself as far as possible from the belay (except for the fact that I am likely sharing the same anchor with my second)and run the belay line directly off of the anchor. When you do this with an ATC you still need to use a biner to run it back to your belay device, or you use an ATC backwards and I just ain't coordinated enough :-)
The Munter runs opposite from a belay device, locks off with one hand and uses that same biner off the anchor an ATC does. It works great when facing the anchor with the line running down to the second. The only trick is to get yourself hung such that the biner with the Munter (do I need to keep capitalizing this????) is far enough from your chest so you can work it properly without getting all cramped up.
Do any of you think that a rope friction belay type thing will wear ones rope out faster than a hardware device? Ropes are expensive you know......
What I was getting at is