Mike_Gauthier
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Posts posted by Mike_Gauthier
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This is all very interesting.
So Feck, do you really hate Rainier?
It sure is snowy up here.
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I have always observed that is the third week in January.
If you look at the current weather forecast, and current conditions, it looks like I am right. AGAIN!
Some great inversion... Sounds balmy and calm up there! Here is a small sample of the Jan 21 Remote telemetry at Camp Muir:
Hour TEMP / Wind-min/ Avg/ Max
500... -5......... 0...... 28...... 92
600... -6......... 45...... 62..... 84
700... -4......... 46...... 64..... 81
800... -4......... 45...... 62..... 88
900... -2......... 40...... 61..... 83
1000. -1......... 43...... 60..... 75
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I am from Europe originally. From some undeveloped country.
We don't even know what hypothermia is.
But sure sounds ugly.
HA! Sounds like a good time! Maybe there won't be a need for books?
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i plan to be up there for 2 or 3 weeks mid-feb to early march for a winter ascent...
BRRRR.... Bring a good book (or 3)!
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I think it's fair to compare this situation to other construction delays on public roads. At some point, road improvements displace the public, but these are temporary displacements. No one likes to be stuck in traffic but a few months later, there is a new road.
Keep in mind that many more non-climbers were displaced at Paradise over the past two summers. Meanwhile, climbers and other overnight visitors were afforded a specific parking lot. Also, b/c climbers tended to arrive early, they had fewer problems accessing parking. Whereas 1,000’s of “day use” visitors were “shuffled along" to other areas b/c the Paradise parking lot was filled by 10 am.
Slaps at the NPS planning process of the new visitor center (which most people are excited about) are easy to make, but they aren't going to help the fact that there IS A REAL parking crunch at Paradise. To keep things in perspective, the parking crunch will affect everyone going to Paradise. Also, there was "foresight", but what options were you thinking? Pave some meadow to make more parking? Not build the new VC? Only build during the summer (which still displaces visitors)? Bottom line, there really wasn't a simple solution and they did discuss a variety of problems/issues at length.
Obviously, this is not a pretty situation "right now," but it's one that can be endured until the contractors finish the new visitor center (next fall). The best thing to do is to share the word about how Paradise will a tough place to visit on weekends this winter.
I advocate very hard, and sometimes successfully, for climbers on Mt Rainier, but there has to be some give, take AND understanding. Remember that climbers are a very small fraction of the total number of visitors to Mt. Rainier N.P. Given that there is limited paved space at Paradise and resources to deal with them (snow-plows, drivers, rangers, etc), it's hard to push the entire operation in favor of any specific group. The best thing to do is to inform the public as much as possible that things are going to be tight. At least you know that fact before coming up. And BTW, this really is a "weekend" issue.
Your point about the concession access last spring was/is heard. I hope you don’t think that this didn’t get brought up then. But it has nothing to do with the winter parking problem at Paradise.
The shuttle comments are stretching, as I don’t see a mandatory shuttle anytime soon at Mt Rainier. And yes, the NPS is aware of the complexity of making backcountry users rely on shuttles. The American Alpine Club voiced concern on that during the General Management Plan.
As for your other ideas about winter access, I applaud the notion of opening more roads in the winter, particularly the road to White River (Ipsut is another story IMO). I also know, however, that there just isn't enough $ to do this. It's not as simple as buying another plow or getting a few new employees. Public road management isn’t simple, clear or easy.
Which leads us to this fact: the NPS has a complex and diverse mission. On one hand, it provides access and recreational opportunities while on the other it seeks to preserve “park lands” as pristine as possible. Those two missions are not always congruent. In fact, they make for intense and sometimes bitter internal debates among staff and visitors. And it’s amazing how righteous and/or indignant those positions and the people behind them can get. I found the article by Joel Connelly about Dan Evan's very interesting, and it echoes some of my personal concern. It’s troubling to see differing outdoor/enviro groups who all seem to love/appreciate/visit our federal/NPS/USFS/BLM lands become so fractured and full of in-fighting. In that end, we all loose.
But as for parking at Paradise this winter, it's going to be tough. I will do what I can to inform the public as early as possible (blog).
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Just wanted to share that after a month off from blog updates, I have again begun putting information and stories up. See you there.
Also, I've a talk scheduled for this Thursday, Oct 18th at the Museum of History and Industry. This won't be the standard rescue/climbing route type talk. I intend to focus on the changes that are occurring in the park.
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No, it's 6 hours long (no breaks either) and there will be a 20- page Q & A w/ essay afterwards.
Actually, my programs tend to be 1 hour plus, but never 2 hours... That leaves time for the after talk festivities.
As for the blog, I'm trying to get something up tonight. I've been on the road for quite a while.
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...you went by us so fast on the descent the wind tore the camera right out of my hands.
One moves a lot faster when using the dark side of the force.
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Nice addition Big Wave Dave. Can I use that image with your lines on the blog?
Hey Fred, I wouldn't say the DC is "closed". But yes, it's not a good option now... It's entirely possible that the guides will figure a way across that crevasse network later this season. Though that may seem unlikely, crevasses sometimes cave in and create new bridges...
Regardless, the new variation will probably work for the next few weeks. Though longer, I like it b/c it avoids the rocky cleaver.
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Nice shot... Nice images on your website too. BTW, I happen to be in that photo (near the crater rim, can't you see me??), where's the credit???
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Does anyone know.....
I have always thought that the basin where the first picture with the tent is would have some sweet water ice lines in the winter. As you head toward Unicorn around the lake on the right their are a lot of cliffs that have a lot of water spurting over them. It is at a fairly high elevation and due to the basin and aspect, gets very little sun. It looks like you could go in for a day in say February and tick a bunch of sweet water ice routes?
Those slopes can have some avalanche issues when the snow is deep (possible in Feb). But in November, when it can also get quite cold, but the access is EASY (b/c the road is still open) those falls will freeze up, and they make for nice lines.
Good eye... and nice TR.
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I was wondering if it has ever been tossed around to make self-registration available in summer? Perhaps along the same lines as the solo climb request? (i.e. requiring a pre-requisite amount of mountaineering experience, subject to pre-screening and approval, as with the solo requests)
Thanks again for all the hard work you guys have done up there! (this season especially)
Trust me, I understand the demand for easy/simple/logical registration! That said, there are limits for most of the high camps and alpine zones on Mt Rainier. If we allowed self registration during the summer, there would be no way to control how many people went to a wide variety of places. And that really could lead to mayheim on the mountain.
This may not seem like a big deal to someone who drops in once or twice a year, but it actually is... I recall days when there would be 250 plus people camped at Emmons Flats alone (for example)... Yeah, the glacier/snow can handle that (sort of) but it's not much fun to have so many folks on the same route, using the one restroom and generally scratching out a place whereever they can find one. Not to mention, those folks hike through a wide variety of fragile alpine areas... and not everyone is that cool about where they take a break, walk, pee, poop, camp, etc, etc...
You can always get a reservation if you "really" need one (most folks don't if they climb mid week.) Or if you "REALLY" need help, call the NPS climbing rangers. They do all they can to help climbers with their climbing trips on Rainier.
Have fun on your climb. Thanks for posting the questions, I'm sure other folks were wondering too.
Mike
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nice climb - you really that afraid someone's gonna try to claim your pictures? sorta detracts from enjoying'em...
Well, Tim does photography for a living, so he just makes sure all the photos he releases for free have his watermark. I know it's distracting but that's his business decision, sorry! :-(
Dan
I called in a favor and Tim shared a few images with me for my blog w/o watermarks. You can find them there (though I didn't put everyone up).
I also editted Dan's great report for stylistic reasons, but I'm sure you understand Ivan... Right????
Anyway, great trip guys, thanks for sharing your information.
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The climbing registration at Paradise opens at 6 am on Sat, 7 am all other days (which is much earlier than many other ranger stations aroung the US.)
There is no gate to worry about (unless you're trying to get through a road that is closed due to the flood). The road is open 24/7 now that it's summer. You can also get a permit the day before your trip and sleep in a campground and start early.
Alpine starts generally refer to the time you leave for the summit, which for most folks means a high camp like Muir, Schurman, etc. Many teams prefer to hike to high camp during the day (99%), especially since the majority reasons to leave early (alpine start) don't really apply (such as avoiding the late day heat on glaciers, etc.)
Good luck
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FYI...
Since the park has reopened (thank god!), climbers (and a lot of skiers) have been doing all sorts of fun things on the big hill. I'm pulling info together for the blog. Check it out, and if you've any reports or photos, send them along.
See you all on the mountain.
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You probably don't need the reservation... Save your $ for gear/celebration/gas...
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The PI did a couple Rainier articles for those interested.
I'm also tracking this event on the blog...
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More climbers summited, there's additional info on the Glacier Basin trail, other Rainier activities, etc...
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Latest news is that they're working to open the Nisqually Road by 15 May, and the White River Road by 25 May.
http://www.nps.gov/mora/parknews/upload/RebuildingRainier022607.pdf
This is press release is as old as the volcanic dirt that gets caught in your crampons on the summit... There is updated information on the blog; Cinco de Mayo amigo.
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This dropped in my email box today... Anyone wanna climb the Kautz w/ Trask?
"Mike, I am planning on climbing the Kautz Cleaver route with my friend Trask sometime in early may..."
I'll protect the innocent and not reveal any names...
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I put a photo of the trail up too. I suspect that although the trail damage is reported to be bad, it still won't stop a reasonably determined climbing team. As a point of optimism, a few folks have made it to Glacier Basin this year.
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If it's not entirely clear, I'll like to remind the cc board that I don't make the rules around here.
As for the summit team, I didn't speak directly with them. I suspect that they hiked in on Sunday (during "open house" hours) did the climb and "probably" came out, whenever they finished... whenever that happened to be? Perhaps it was after hours; perhaps it was mid day during the week; perhaps it was a week later during the next cycle of "open house" hours??? I don't know and I didn't inquire. "Perhaps" they were banking the theory that it's better to ask forgiveness than permission?
It's not about registering, fees, checking in, etc. The NPS just didn't want people walking the road with all the heavy truck traffic. Claro?
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Despite the access, it still seems that independent climbers lead the way on Mount Rainier... Two guys did a fantastic job making the summit last week. Check it out .
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We had to settle for Dave Uberuaga in place of you.
So, where's your TR?
I was going to post it, but I'm concerned that someone will steal the fixed gear we left behind...
Gibralter ledges route in June
in Mount Rainier NP
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I've climbed Gib Ledges in June a few times. Normally, after one of those "June storms" where the route gets re-coated w/ snow/ice. Each time, it was totally great, and a nice variation on the main Muir routes. In fact, it was easier and faster than it normally is in the winter...
All that said, it was quite warm on the way down, so I suggest descending the ID or DC. You should DEFINITELY leave early too, and ABSOLUTELY wear a helmet... Also, if there hasn't been a recent storm, and significant storm at that, don't do it. Because under all that beautiful glacial ice, Rainier is really just a choss pile waiting to pummel you with rocks. And without all the snow/ice, Gib Ledges is, well, not very fun.