Haven't done the full direct route, but did the route via the hanging snowfield. For what it's worth, it took us 7 hours to reach high camp, and a complete day to do the route and get back to high camp. There was a party of 2 that was one day ahead of us and did the direct route. They also took 7 hours to get in to high camp, and took a VERY long day to do the route (they returned to high camp via headlamp). The descent is trivial and non-technical from the top of the route. The technical climbing ends on the ridge well below the summit. Neither we nor the other party went up to the summit, which would add probably 2 more hours to your day. Plenty of water at high camp and good spots to sleep.
