Drederek
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Posts posted by Drederek
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Is it time to resurrect this?
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Bracksicks pillar was what I was lookn at. Binghams guide and some printouts from mtn proj is all I've used for guidebooks there the two times I've been.
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Went there late last year and it was all pretty much open. Lots of good 10 and under sport stuff on Castle Rock. Red Rib was memorable and Zinger was a nice 3 pitch outing. Saw another crag there on mountainproject that looked good for easier stuff but don't recall the name.
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Great pics on an awesome looking climb! Classic Red Rock, thx for sharing.
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So who got the millionth post? Thx for all the entertainment and info.
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Yah, boulderers and hardcore gym rats tend to do poorly out there. Hopefully I've counteracted some of the bad habits I picked up in the gym over the winter. And thanx to Miladugga who rode out with me. Hes becoming quite the model for cc trip reports. I'm just glad I got to shoot him before he got too famous.
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Trip: Fossil Rock - many
Date: 3/19/2011
Trip Report:
Finally got out on real rock this year after another season of plastic. It felt really good to be touching stone while the sun beat down on our backs (that really happened for a few minutes). At a little less than hour from Olympia with a 3 mile mtn bike (or walk) approach Fossil is one of two thurston county options for sportos who dun want to sit in the car for a couple hours+ each way. And it'll dry out overnite. We left Oly at 10 and were roping up by 11:30, starting with the easy 10 and the hard 9 on the first wall you come to in the sun.
Then we stepped it up just a wee bit with the 10c between the hard 9 and the express arete (sorry I just dun know all the names anymore, wish I woulda bought the guide years ago when it was available). Its a lot like our warmups but has a nice steep section in the middle. After that I was ready to tackle the battle of the bulge, a deceptively hard route that requires good footwork and a keen eye for the "good" holds. Neither of which I had in abundance at that time. If you do it perfectly it may be as easy as 10b, sadly I generally make the crux move into a hard 10/easy 11 one.
Then I put up the express arete, a very fun 11a thats pretty straightforward and steep, lots of heel hooks and weird contortions to make the many clips. Its hard to believe this gem fits between the battle and the 10c, which are only 6-8 feet apart but its definitely its own line.
A quick jaunt up a 7 or 8 on Boyle Bobbins wall to fetch some booty and we were close to being done.
For dessert we did Sharks in the water, another 11a. Its a overhanging slab with a rather large and scary cleaver sticking out of the wall near the top (which you end up standing on!)
What a great day, nice routes, good company and home in time for supper.
Gear Notes:
rope and draws
Approach Notes:
Mountain bikes speed things along, moreso on the way out.
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Up to 10 - 15 feet I've just made ladders out of slings for the wife. If you're talking 50 feet or more you oughta just fix a second line.
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You're right, take a left when you top out the gully on the way to Res A and Inti. Head down a wide trundly slide till you can head back up the well shadowed gully in ED's pic. The first part of Dogma has a couple very nice pitches but the rest is just OK. We parked at the abandoned campground right off the highway to get an early start. Theres a well established track till you get behind the Pimple and head up the climbers trail.
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JT in 2 weeks, I'd love to get my wife up some 10's there this year. RR beginning of May, We're talking about Birdhunter Buttress to the top of the Rainbow wall among other things. Definitely gotta get back up to Squamish, its been a few years. Inner Constance has been on the list for awhile, this could be the year. It'd be nice to at least scout out Warrior while I'm up there as well. Gotta hit Ozone again, had a blast there the one time I've been. I'm gonna try and not attempt to lead Floater this year, I'm tired of getting shut down on something I know I can redpoint. I'll try The Riddler instead. Plenty of low probability moves for me on that one but I'll get lucky at least once. I'm being maneuvered into trying Slesse so thats in the mix. City of Rocks after Labor day, gotta tick off a few more 10a's on my classic tee shirt and give Crack of Doom a shot.
And my #1 goal is ..... Climb at Fossil with Humble Ted Awesome!
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Good times on Mt wilson! I've made it to the top once (resolution arete),ran out of gas on Dogma, did what we thought was Pink Tornado left to just below Sherwood forest and blazed up Inti Watani once. We did the rap from a single bolt thing due to only having a sixtymeter going down dogma too
The sketchy way across to Dogma and Pink T L was pretty good for the first 2 of those trips, it must have been the early oughts when it fell apart. The workaround is not that bad with only a little loss of hard won elevation and a cool tunnel section as of 5 years ago. That woman of mountain dreams definitely looks stellar to me. Inti Watani is a sheep in wolfs clothing, I'm sure the fastest route to Sherwood forest. -
If you've only ever had sex with your father, you might find a goat to be quality too.
I'll take your word on that one!
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Sounds like TNF is just putting the spin on their boys accomplishments. Advertising has never been a completely honest game. Why would you expect a huge corporation dedicated to selling puffy jackets to soccer moms to be 100% accurate? How long you been living in america?
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Nice! The sky was surreal that day.
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we missed the window but did get out today. this is where we were about the time you posted.
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What a great climb! Thanx for reminding me how much fun it was. The split pillar is my all-time favorite crack (so far)
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Did ya make it last weekend? Conditions were prime on sunday. Heres a shot of Washington from Ellinor.
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do any of you use crampons instead of chopping steps?
Dude...you just won The Weakest Analogy of 2011 Award (thus far.)
And you're not winning an argument on the internet
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AND I then LEAD the route on BOLTS. And Off, it was a good climb, I loved the solpey finish and powerful moves. First lead here as well, those photos are close to 5 years old now too. Psyched to continue to clean more lines, there's a 5.8 somewhere...
Well that flake was 5.8 - for a good 20 feet or so
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Little Si is the epitome of a sport climbing venue. It never had a chance to be anything else. This is a great place for permadraws. However I truly hope these things don't start sprouting up everywhere. They definitely have their place and Little Si is one of them.
I'm sure most people hiking Little Si don't think they're out in the wilderness and I've seen plenty of them ooh and aah their way past wwI.
Thanks for the effort guys.
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Donny Baker will give ya those panties for two bits, swear ta God!
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Most climbing gym workers are arrogant s.o.bs. in my experience
Not my experience at all. I have run into a few over the years but lately not so much. I got the feeling the few bad ones were not very experienced and just focused on making sure people did stuff the way they had been told to do it. But I've never been to a climbing gym in a flat state or jail so your results may differ.
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Looking back on the last pitch of the easy route on the Ogre at Castle Crags
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Its been years since I've gone out there regularly in the winter but as long as its 45 or above and the wind isn't blowing too hard theres plenty of stuff to climb there even when its raining. There will be wet spots and drips but you should be able to get past most of them on the steeper stuff.
Olympia Climbing Wednesdays
in Events Forum
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Can you help us? oh great and powerful Off!