Drederek
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Posts posted by Drederek
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Looks like a fun hike, on a bonus day. Thx for the pics!
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Well thats kind of what climbing is all about, finding the line that gets you there and just as importantly, back. I'm more than willing to sacrifice some speed for safety. Being willing to give up some ground if you spot a better way, accurately assessing rock quality, knowing your strengths and weaknesses. Trusting your gut and knowing when to over rule it. I believe having an onsight mentality rather than a sporto background is helpful.
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On 7/5/2018 at 7:28 AM, Eric T said:
A 3 month school and riding around for 3 more in a park doesn't make a law enforcement officer. Working as a city police officer, a Sheriff's deputy or in the State Patrol gives you real experience. Real cops don't waste time on petty crap, that's the biggest difference. Real cops deal with real situations and have perspective on what's important and what's a waste of time. I spend months on end traveling in parks climbing and the things you see park and blm enforcement do is juvenile and annoying. I'm a middle aged white man saying this. The NPS has had issues getting minorities to come to the parks. And why would they? $$$ huge gate fees only to be harresed by some overly zelious amature wannabe "cops".
Wow! And I thought my Mother in Law was prejudiced.
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Nice job getting it first try, thats not so easy in the Olympics sometimes. Sounds like theres no snow till after the lake, I'll have to make my semi-annual pilgrimage up there soon.
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I'm not!
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Trip: Mt Ellinor - Rose to NW gully
Trip Date: 05/27/2018
Trip Report:
The first time I attempted this was almost 20 years ago, we made it up onto Mt Ellinor from the Mt Rose trail but were turned away by chest deep postholing. The route we took up and across the south face was awful, loose steep and no fun at all. However with no desire to retrace our steps we were forced to find another way down, which appeared to be a 14 mile hike down to the 24 and back to the Mt Rose trailhead. As the trail gained the ridge overlooking the lake the GPS said we were 1/2 mile from the car and the dirt slide of death descent was dicscovered! The second half of the puzzle was solved but it took a chance encounter with a Mt Rose trail crew member to figure out a better first half...
We started up the Mt Rose trail about 8:30, not sure of our beta to search out a new trail and hopefully make it up the unillusive Mt Ellinor, the whore of the Olympics, ready for any and all comers. Sure enough we found the sign proclaiming Bear Camp was a mere .7 miles away. Kind of a neat destination in itself.
After poking around a bit we headed westward on a trail as we knew we needed to gain the ridge or we'd end up where I did so many years ago. The trail got us quickly over to the ridge where we promptly lost it and did some serious Olympic bushwacking and log crawling with some slide alder/Devils club action to spice it up.
But really not too bad as there was still snow covering a lot of it and the DC was just starting to sprout. After traversing under the ridge for an hour or so we stopped and looked at the map and wisely decided to cross the ridge before we followed it down to Mt Pershing, accomplishing this feat at the highest point on the ridge! We were rewarded with a new view of the summit we were after.
Braver men might have stayed high and followed the SW Ridge? (right skyline) up but my fear of the south face and desire to ascend the steep snow of the NW gully won out, forcing us to descend about 500 feet and work our way around the left shoulder in the pic above and up 1000 feet of easily kicked in steps. Approaching the summit we could see the ess shaped route of our descent off the ridge and be content knowing we took 7 hours to climb what most people climb in an hour or two.
Tagged the summit, slid down most of the the rapidly disintergrating winter chute and scampered down the trail to the head of the dirt slide of death.
The dirt slide went pretty well but became overgrown about halfway down, necessitating, you guessed it, more schwacking! Moving slowly with tired legs on a never ending descent we finally hit the road just a couple hundred yards from the car. It was a great day and a challenging way to climb an old friend.
Gear Notes:
Axe, lightweight traction
Approach Notes:
A little schwacky here and there-
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Its definitely higher on known ground than onsight, the Eye felt like a hike while the west ridge of Constance felt like free soloing.
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I can't be the only one who took some last week
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haven't but id bet money on it
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I respect the ratings more at Castle Rock as a general rule as well.
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If Damnation = 5.9, OS = 5.8. On a par with Ski Tracks or The Bone. Definitely easier than Rogers Corner.
What I surmised to be the broken flake is clearly visible in the above picture, it just starts a little further away from the corner now.
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No need to worry, P3 is still Leavenworth 5.9. It appears that about a foot of the flake in question snapped off, not really a big deal. When the other 90% of that flake goes there may be an issue, although that does not seem imminent.
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Not hard to take fantastic pictures there! Great list of climbs!
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So you decided not to create an avatar and make up a wonderful story about how your book elevated your game to sponsored level? Slacker!
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These things are awesome, bootywise. Not to be stealing them but letting people too stupid/lazy/whatever get used to finding them, then when they hit a set of chains they'll just put a couple draws up and bail, forgetting them or not knowing how to thread or ?? More project draws abandoned for the taking!
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Redpoint in Terrebonne, its prime time for Smith now!
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Mt Stuart from the ne end of Stuart lake, the west ridge is pretty much the skyline up from the pass and the hills above the lake are the precursor to the north ridge
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Someone has done a lot of trail maintenance on this route and it is a very good alternative to route 1, the middle third of which is really loose right now. It also serves as the first 3/4 of the approach to the SE Ridge before going down,over and back up to join route 1 below the shield wall. So many thanks to whomever has taken on this timely project.
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Is there any snow left on this route, or on the cascadian couloir descent?
yes
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Swim oughta be on the list, its easy enough to skip the first pitch.
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Glad you had a good time up there, I really liked that route. And good job on cleaning up that 2nd rappel, it was quite a mess. I was very glad to have brought climbing shoes and I found the rock quality to be a fair bit better than average for the Olympics. It was very cool how everything kept going easier than it looked like it would.
Looking back down the ridge.
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Nice picture, thx!
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Nice TR and thanks for the pics, there's a lot more snow up on top than I expected. Did you enjoy the slowly darkening skies that day?
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And with a big enough stone and a spectra jockstrap a beginner could aid City Park in maybe 21 placements
Current Snow Levels?
in Olympic Peninsula
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Capitol Forest, Porter creek loop. Up Iron creek down hell creek. Only twenty miles or so if I recollect correctly.