666
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Posts posted by 666
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to absent friends 
rest in pieces STFU loser!
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I heard about the Canook ice being in and all that and how it was like the second coming of the ice age or something with wooly mammoths and shit.
Dru was looking for a partner to climb Bridal Falls near Chiliwack tonight after all his regular partners turned himdown or had to wash their hair. So after he promised to
if I showed up to rope gun I told him I'd be there. I brought a case of PBR up with me and had a few road pops between Sumas and Chiliwack.Full moon was shining as we drove out to Bridal Falls which is basically a gas station motel trailer park and waterslide kinda Canook town. Dru was in full Dru mode going off about mars landings and giant squid and which hand to use for which hold on the crux of a route he's never done on a peak in Shmuckistan.
We drove up some dirt road in a Canook state park to the ice and hiked up to the base of this Bridal Falls which was spewing chunks and wet. Had a big argument
about if it was safe to climb which ended with Dru wimping out and going back to sleep in the car. 
I climbed this falls which was a couple of pitches mostly Grade II with a little step of III. The ice was slurpee and had lots of running water, mushrooms, and slush but was one hit hero stuff. There were chunks falling off a hollow shield in the middle of lower falls so i climbed on left to halfway terrace then on right to top. Right at the top there was a half-formed up grade IV wall that I avoided by climbing out a frozen log off the falls into a tree at the side of the route and on into the forest.
I didnt know how find a trail down and Dru took the guidebook with him so i just walked up the creek 15 minutes to some logging road and followed it back to Bridle Falls. Nice walk in the moonlight with bobcat tracks all over I think they were courtin or something because it looked like there was a spot where the tracks met up and
Dru was shivering his ass of in the car so i slapped him awake and we came back here for
The thing is so wet I betcha it falls down by Wednesday.
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fuk off dru you will never own me. loser
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Billygoat said:
WTF
Fast Finger.... Probably hairy fast finger
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first let's get the story straight- pope- you have no idea what hard climbing is all about, whether it's rock, mixed or ice. now, before tou get your panties all bunched up in a wad stop for a second and think. what's your hardest rock climb, what's your hardest mixed? do you even know how does M8 or 5.14 look like? you talk loud, but talk minus action= zilch. show us the way, please. send some hard crack- i have a perfect one for you- the great arch @ squamish. let's see how you do it. or maybe City park? you talk a lot of shit about ethics, bolts =bad, bold= good. but that's where it ends, talk. produce some back up or stop spraying your nonsense biatch.
Mr glassgowkiss your resorting to elitism have rendered large amounts of your argument to garbage in some eyes. Although I think we agree on some points. Maybe Pope and yourself should both get on similarly rated rock routes within arm swinging distance and start slugging it out at mid height? I promise to bring my video recorder for the entertainment.
Still though- You do make some good points where I am able to wade through the anger and decipher.
Keep it up.
666
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ehmmic said:
The route is only about 35 feet in length. Isn't that more of a highball problem. Seems like a stretch to call it a route.
I can understand your reasoning ehmmic. Instead of mocking what some might call ignorant I invite you to keep reading.
There is some truthful intent behind your comment obviously.
I am not "bouldering" these "routes" and I could care less to go there. But if I was to visit the area I am sure that my opinion would be confirmed. My opinion which I have not stated yet...
Back to my point- Which was my first one liner that created a little more discussion along Paco's initial lines even though he may not have been aware of the reasoning behind the anchor placement from the start. Which I believe he did not... It's a funny way how these flame wars rage on sometimes.
Questions for Pope- Have you enjoyed reading about Sean Easton and Ueli Steck's route on the East Face of Mt Dickey called Alpine Poetry? A nice piece of work IMHO.
Another new route if you will was put up by Willl Gadd, Kevin Mahoney, and Scott Semple's route Howse of Cards for instance had certainly raised standards in NA. It did not read any rap bolting for that one. What do you have to say about that route?
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mattp- as you might have noticed standards in rock climbing are rising and the biggets jump took place with development of sport climbing. it's the same with mixed. you need guns and technique so you can be fast and strong in the mountains.
First I am not mattp. But this is spray internet right?
Well the rock climbing "standards" have been on the rise for the last century or more. This also includes ice.
Also there is this guy that is credited but not admitting to the advance of what a real historian might call modern mixed climbing in America. Although I am sure he has placed a number of bolts in his life I don't believe he is quite so adventurous as to bolt 30 foot faces on a toprope. Given that Jeff Lowe is from Colorado where the mountains and terrain are very different from the Cascades one can easily dispute the reasoning. Also note that the ice in the cascades is not quite as common near the road or seemingly as abundant as many other areas of Colorado or even Canada's grand Rockies.
After establishing a few of those points I can also notice that there are rock climbers out there today and this week climbing at very high levels here in Washington. Maybe they are not marking 5.15a but it is not exactly sunny here in Washington for 250 to 300 days a year as it is in many other parts of our country. This might be factor as well..
To put it all together I think that portions of glassgowkiss' arguments are debatable and that he is overlooking some items.
I am not the bolt police and I personally don't care about this area and the bolts.
There is a hint of elitism in the air that if you can climb rock well that gives you a license to put anchors anywhere. Indeed there is wisdom sometimes behind the intent and insertion of anchors in the hills that are usefull and worthy. But while I read the comments here it only hints that good climbers should or are allowed to be placing these anchors. There is obviously no access issue here and as mattp has pointed out, we are definitely not disturbing much in the way of the aesthetic
Snoqualmie Alps.Satan has spoken
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mattp said:
Obviously, 666, we do not need ANY routes anywhere but it is a cost/benefit kind of analysis that matters here. I take it from your comment that you think the equation tips way toward the negative.
Paco thought this would be a poor choice of a location for a new sport climbing crag and I'm curious: in thinking about whether or not this particular masterpiece is worthy or not, does it change your thinking at all if you know that it may have been intended for winter mixed climbing as opposed to summer sport climbing?
I haven't seen the crag in question, and all I know about it is what appears in this thread, but I'd be inclined toward being critical if it was just another summer sport-crag whereas I am thinking it may be kind of cool if it is some mixed climbing "testpiece." And I say this even though it represents a style of climbing I am not all that interested in and I still think it is kind of an odd contrivance. At the risk of suffering the wrath of the M-9 contingent, I'll say that in my mind it is kind of silly to bolt crags so that somebody can go rock climbing with crampons on ... but that's just me. At least it sounds as if this thing was not imposed on some long-standing classic of the Snoqualmie Alps.
Mr. Perkins, I can definitely agree with most of your comments. Especially the classic of the Snoqualmie Alps remark
My one liner was intended to spark thought about the whole concept. Let's keep it going.
Yours truly,
Senior Satan
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Do we really need "routes" like this?
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Lets say you met this hot woman and started seeing her pretty regularly.
Then you found out she had leprosy.
Would you dump her?
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when r they going to let us shoot naked women in the parks with paintball guns
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Listen pud. U wussed out one some good aid climbing last time. I bet the gunks was all hip and cool lycra infested fun. Puke yuck!
Jump up to the plate next time. I heard you're getting fatter with that 30 hours a week engineering doo.
At that pace maybe you'll be doing some A3 before you know it. Ooh of trade some of your vacation time for a lyposuction bonus
How are the mini midgets?
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I pee on your butt
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oddest place?
in your burger when i was workin short order cook at Zeke's last summer
did ya like my special sauce?
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jesus is a total sport fag. He moondances all over the 5.14 crimpers and snakes right up the 5.12 slabs. You forget-the guy can walk on water in sandals-imagine what he does in gym slippers.
Of course his so-called father gave him all these powers-he's never tried a day in his life. In fact the only reason he's not pushing 5.16 is that he feels bad for Sharma and isn't "about competitive climbing". "It's between myself and rock," he whines. He does a lot of Yoga too, but I think that's related to post-crucifixion recovery an shit.
He couldn't stare down a fire breathing crack that lies open to the fiery depths of Hell like me though, he's a namby robe-wearin' holier than thou Smith type.
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hey you old fucktard: none of what you said addresses my statement about AA. either you admit what i say is true or you are unable to focus on the topic at hand. regardless you're a waste of my time: go fuck a duck fool.
i fed sixteen christians to a den of lions yesterday: quota filled before the new year
The Nodder?
in Spray
Posted
sure is nodddddddder