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Jedi

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Posts posted by Jedi

    Harness Life?

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    I replaced my BD XX harness when the belay loop stitching started coming undone. Some stiching on the waist belt in the front had seen better days.

     

    Layton- that Petzl harness you mentioned above might be the Adjama at 13oz. Looks like a good design. I like the idea of the 2 different types of gear loops (hard in front and soft in back). It has loops for those Caritool carriers which look pretty sweet for ice screws.

    The Sama is the same thing w/out the adjustable leg loops and weighes 11.6oz

     

    Speaking of Petzl, how about those Nitros? Lighter & shorter than Screamers.

    Jedi

    Slide film speed question

    in Alaska

    Posted · Edited by Jedi

    I just talked to a friend of mine in Manhatten. She knows a lab that will push the film if I think I need to do so with a roll. I just need to label the roll I think needs it. I don't the local Walmart can help[ me out (small town living for ya).

    That's a great idea about the labels.

     

    Nice pictures Forest

    Slide film speed question

    in Alaska

    Posted · Edited by Jedi

    Alasdair,

    nice website! West Ridge of Hunter looks like a amazing route. I have always wanted to try it. We were in the Ruth at the same time that year. It was pretty dang warm.

     

    When did you guys fly in to climb Foraker?

    Slide film speed question

    in Alaska

    Posted

    I will be taking my point & shoot Yashica T4 Super so I will not be able to push the film. There is Sensia II 100, 200 & 400. Velvia 50, Provia 100 & 400, Provia 100 & 400 & Fujichrome ASTIA Superia (not sure what speeds this comes in) and that is just Fuji. I only trust Fuji & Kodiak.

     

    There are just too many options. Yeah we will not have a tripod on route so it has to be a pretty forgiving speed.

    Jedi

    Slide film speed question

    in Alaska

    Posted

    We are going to be in a pretty shaded area. Many of the "on route" pictures I have seen of the route look like they are climbing in early morning or late evening. Pretty much in the shade and not in direct sun. What have you guys had good results with?? Probably many cloudy and/or foggy days.I will be shooting slide film. Probably 2 rolls of a slower speed and 2 rolls for direct sunlight (in case we end up climbing elsewhere). Suggestions?

    Self-Belay, Old School Style

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I never tried tieing off to each piece.

     

    I have used the clove hitch and the solo aid. THe solo aid definitly works better than the clove hitch. Once, while using the clove hitch, I thought I had paid out enough rope to free 3 or 4 moves. I was wrong. The clove hitch was too tight to free up any more rope and i had come up short on rope at a mantle. The 1st free move was off a talon hook. I was not comfortable reversing the other free moves back to the Talon. I struggled for a while until I peeled. The clove did hold that fall nicely. I was a long one because the beak & a RURP under the talon ripped.

    Jedi

    new BD stuff

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    My climbing partner bought the Firstlight tent for our trip to AK in April. not expecting much rain. Looking forward to trying it out. he says it packs pretty small. He says being able to see through he fabric makes him a little nervous.

    We will only be climbing when the weather is perfect anyway so no worries:)

    I'll let you guys know how we liked it if we get on route.

    Jedi

    MSR pumps

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    The girl I talked to mentioned the piece that holds the plunger in when you draw the plunger out. It had some small "L" shaped brackets that held it in place. They broke on occasion so they beefed them up. There were a couple other things she mentioned but I forget now.

    I just called MSR and talked to someone in customer service. Sorry I didn't remember more details. Just thought I would mention it in case someone had a big trip to South America or something and maybe wanted a little more piece of mind.

    MSR pumps

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    Sorry if this has already been posted.

    MSR has made a few mods to their 04 pumps. According to MSR, the new pumps will look like the old ones. They have reconized that their pump design had some weak points and have essentially made those conponets more duable. If you want a newer pump, they sell for $29.95.

    Jedi

    Metolius TCU's vs. Aliens (small sizes)

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    Just thought I would mention as someone did above. I had a red (my favorite) Alien freeze up badly while in the Ruth while climbing Peak 11,300. It was warm during the day and it had gotten pretty cold (12am). snow probably melted on it during the day and then froze in the unit later. I was using it for free climbing.

    I like the Met's for free climbing and tend to use the Aliens for aid.

    As far as the ratings are concerned. I would guess (with looking at any other data) that it is because you are comparing 3 lobe units to 4 lobe units? I dunno.

     

    I have been looking at my rack for my upcoming trip to AK. Planning on taking my set of Met's and then a couple small Aliens for the aid (TCU size). Hope my luck is a little better this time.

    Jedi

    Jedi

    mt. huntington

    in Alaska

    Posted

    Welllll, Joe's stellar topo was the key to figuring it out. I don't know what the rest of the contestants used for their answers. I like this game. Please post another!

    Jedi

    Harvard Route topo

    in Alaska

    Posted

    Has Mark been on the board lately? I had an old email but I am not sure if it is any good. Yeah, I was hoping he would give me the scoop. I have the NA Classics CD but there was no helpful pictures or info on the part I needed.

    I heard the hardcover edition of Mountain of my Fear had a topo of the upper 3/4's of the route.

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